33 Goudey Gehrig sold last night.

[Snapolit1]

Could have made it a 4 and basically asked for the same amount of money, and the red lights wouldn't have been so glaring.

[the 'stache]

Originally Posted by Snapolit1

Could have made it a 4 and basically asked for the same amount of money, and the red lights wouldn't have been so glaring.

Red lights were flashing for me the second I looked at the slab and flip. I didn't even need to look at the grade; I knew something was rotten in Denmark immediately. A lower grade wouldn't have made it an easier sell.

I'm floored that somebody actually bought this pos.

[pokerplyr80]

I'm surprised to see Net54 members actually thought this one might be real. Part of the case missing. The back side of the flip. The fact that a 25k card was listed for a BIN of 2k (I didn't look up the actual value, could be more or less).

I guess this explains how people fall for those ebay fakes. If members of the most knowledgeable baseball card forum consider purchasing something like this what chance does the casual collector have?

[Steve D]

The fact that the flip and the card are both the same width is a giveaway that something is rotten. If you look at any legitimate 1933 Goudey in a PSA holder, the flip is noticably wider than the card is.


Steve

[the 'stache]

Originally Posted by pokerplyr80

I'm surprised to see Net54 members actually thought this one might be real. Part of the case missing. The back side of the flip. The fact that a 25k card was listed for a BIN of 2k (I didn't look up the actual value, could be more or less).

I guess this explains how people fall for those ebay fakes. If members of the most knowledgeable baseball card forum consider purchasing something like this what chance does the casual collector have?

I'm surprised, as well.

Whenever I look at an auction, I look for a reason not to believe the card is real. I consider the seller first, then the auction description..trying to find something that doesn't sound, or feel right. It's terrible I have to be this way, but my free money is in short supply these days, and until I get some things squared away, I have to be extra vigilant.

Once I've looked at those things, I then examine the flip and slab (if there is one), and then finally, the card itself. I'm very quick to start up a dialogue with the seller, asking for an extra picture with his user name if it's more than a $100 card. The sellers I've spoken with have been more than happy to do this, and the few times I've done it, I tell them they've earned my business, and I will keep my eyes out for their upcoming auctions.

It amazes me how bad some of these Ebayers are. They're selling junk, and anybody with eyes, and a semblance of common sense, should be able to smell them a mile away. And when you add in our hobby knowledge, we should catch (and report) a good 90% of the non-legit auctions.

I love a good deal as much as anybody else. But due diligence is always prudent.

[clydepepper]

Sage advice indeed, Bill.

However, Steve Finley provided the best nugget (IMO) from this thread:

I should get a t-shirt made that says:

'looking like toilet paper in a pokemon case at the Jethroe County Swap Meet'

LMAO - proudly!!

Nobody around here has seen this much fat (yours truly) jiggle this much in a long while.

Thanks Steve!

-Raymond

.

[Snapolit1]

The old "if it's too good to be true, it is" canard has saved me a lot of heartache (and money) over the years.

I'm not any sort of an expert on judging cards. Getting better but a long way to go. If this card was in a decent looking case and slabbed a 3 or 4 and was being sold by a legitimate seller with a strong track record I probably wouldn't have doubted it's legitimacy at all.

I'm not going to buy a $1000 card off some dude who last sale was some $12 trinket.

[Peter_Spaeth]

There are some good resources out there discussing the most frequently faked cards. It never ceases to amaze me that people looking for 52T Mantles cannot spot the obvious fakes, because it takes all of ten minutes to learn what to look for.