Advice for selling high volume, high quality 50’s commons and minor stars?

[Belfast1933]

I wanted to ask this group if they have any tested models or ideas that might be a good fit for a new consignment of cards that I recently picked up (I am helping a gentlemen sell his childhood collection, 1950 to 1957, mostly Topps)

The big name cards are being graded and will be available for sale in a month or so when they come back from PSA

My question - I also now have close to 1,000 high condition (ungraded) commons, heavily weighted in 1955 and 1956 Topps. I am thinking through a strategy to sell which:

1. Is efficient, not able to fill set lists one by one. Too time consuming.
2. Still drives value for the card owner, as close to “retail” value for the commons as possible, while still achieving goal 1 above.

My initial ideas are:

1. Team focused lots (no dupes) of 15-20 cards, multiple years

2. Starter sets, no dupes, maybe 50-75 cards each?

3. I have not sold on Ebay for quite awhile; but I wonder if that is a platform for higher volume, efficient selling for cards like this? (Much as I would like to help, I just can’t afford the time to sell cards one by one)

I am guessing there are some high volume sellers here too along with all of the advanced collectors - I’d value your opinions and advice.

Here are fe samples of the cards to show the quality - it’s amazing to me how well this gentlemen maintained such beautifully conditioned cards

Thanks for any ideas

Jeff

[Rich Klein]

In all seriousness, I would just use B/S/T here for the grouping purposes.

It depends on how much work you want to do. For example, I work for COMC where we do all the work other than you shipping the cards (or dropping them off at a show we're set up at) and the only other thing you do is set a price when they are processed. It's a one-by-one basis and the fees are comparable to Ebay.

There are tons of other ways as well. You will choose the way you are most comfortable with.

Rich

[raulus]

Your proposed approach seems like it could definitely work.

I didn't realize that Rich works for COMC, but they're definitely also an option. Greg Morris seems like another alternative to try to outsource a lot of the work while likely getting top dollar for raw cards.

And if you just want to do it yourself, then the BST here or either a BIN or an auction on eBay could also be options. I agree that listing 1,000 items would be a herculean task, and breaking it into teams and/or starter set lots is probably your best bet to keep it manageable, and hopefully not take forever.

I suppose if you're an enterprising fellow, you could also list both at the BST and on eBay (BIN only). Then your only problem will be trying to adjudicate everyone who claims to be the first to declare: "I'll take it!". Particularly if you get someone clicking on eBay to buy it.

Maybe the first person to yell it loud enough, Michael Scott style, should win.

[Bigdaddy]

Originally Posted by raulus

Greg Morris seems like another alternative to try to outsource a lot of the work while likely getting top dollar for raw cards.

This.

[Rich Klein]

[QUOTE=raulus;2501612]Your proposed approach seems like it could definitely work.

I didn't realize that Rich works for COMC, but they're definitely also an option. Greg Morris seems like another alternative to try to outsource a lot of the work while likely getting top dollar for raw cards.

Yep been there for 8 plus years now. Yep, that's why I suggested that to him because it is a logical solution for his query

Many times. especially in variation threads I'll mention what I saw/did not see in the COMC data base. As an example, Lucky Larry's exhibit thread was wonderful for adding more and new listings to the data base.

Regards
Rich

[Huck]

Nice cards.

Possible options:

1) Auction house (fees)
2) Ebay (fees and time)
3) Dealer (discount)
4) BST (everyone loves a deal but could get closer to the "number"
5) Private individual (have to find the person)
6) Set up at a local show (time consuming)

Not a tested model but it works for me. Years ago, I had purchased a collection of cards which included a few hundred 1950's Bowman football cards, of which I had zero interest in keeping. I created a spreadsheet and listed every card and given the condition assigned a price to each card. After each card was assigned a price, I totaled up the column and that was the "retail" price of the lot. I then reduced the retail number by 30%-50% and came up a fair price which was my "number". The National was in Baltimore that year and I took the cards to the show and walked the floor, approaching dealers for a price. Now, I know a dealer is going to offer less than retail, because that is just how the model works. After approaching a few dealers, I found a dealer who clearly wanted to purchase the cards. The offer was not offensive and was above my number so a deal was made. With cash in hand, I purchased a 61, 66 and 67 Topps Mantle's in PSA 7 condition and a ton of autographs. It was a great weekend!

Also, that weekend I had a full set (12) of the 54-55 Gunther Beer basketball set. The National in Baltimore was the perfect place to sell a local set. Again, I approached dealers for a price. One dealer, was interested in the cards and threw out a lowball offer. I passed and as I started to move on he said "if you receive an offer let me try and beat it". I don't play that game. Another dealer made a solid offer and a deal was made. I saw the first dealer again and he asked about the cards, I said "Sold". He said "I said to bring them back if you got an offer". "I got an offer and I sold the lot. You should have given your best price when I was at your table".

Unless the cards are rare very few folks will get anything close to retail. There are always exceptions but 50's era Topps cards are plentiful.

From the pictures the 57's seem to be in better condition than the 56's. Two of the 56's pictured look to have corner issues.


1. Is efficient, not able to fill set lists one by one. Too time consuming.

Agreed.

2. Still drives value for the card owner, as close to “retail” value for the commons as possible, while still achieving goal 1 above.

I would rethink "close to retail". As I mentioned above, price it out, discount and come up with a number you and your friend can live with.


My initial ideas are:

1. Team focused lots (no dupes) of 15-20 cards, multiple years

Not a bad idea. That will take some time.

2. Starter sets, no dupes, maybe 50-75 cards each?

Better idea. Although, I question how many collectors out there are putting together sets. Putting together a 56 Topps set in EX condition or better is going to be expensive.

3. I have not sold on Ebay for quite awhile; but I wonder if that is a platform for higher volume, efficient selling for cards like this? (Much as I would like to help, I just can’t afford the time to sell cards one by one)

I have never sold on Ebay. Ebay is going to take their cut. I am sure there are some Ebay folks on the board who can chime in.

I would dip my toe in the pool with a few postings with BST here on the board. I don't know your location, but show season is starting to get underway again. Take the cards to a large show (ex. CSA) and walk the floor.

[Balticfox]

Originally Posted by Huck

Also, that weekend I had a full set (12) of the 54-55 Gunther Beer basketball set. The National in Baltimore was the perfect place to sell a local set. Again, I approached dealers for a price. One dealer, was interested in the cards and threw out a lowball offer. I passed and as I started to move on he said "if you receive an offer let me try and beat it". I don't play that game. Another dealer made a solid offer and a deal was made. I saw the first dealer again and he asked about the cards, I said "Sold". He said "I said to bring them back if you got an offer". "I got an offer and I sold the lot. You should have given your best price when I was at your table".

Right on!

[raulus]

Originally Posted by Huck

Also, that weekend I had a full set (12) of the 54-55 Gunther Beer basketball set. The National in Baltimore was the perfect place to sell a local set. Again, I approached dealers for a price. One dealer, was interested in the cards and threw out a lowball offer. I passed and as I started to move on he said "if you receive an offer let me try and beat it". I don't play that game. Another dealer made a solid offer and a deal was made. I saw the first dealer again and he asked about the cards, I said "Sold". He said "I said to bring them back if you got an offer". "I got an offer and I sold the lot. You should have given your best price when I was at your table".

Not sure why the dealer thought he was owed a right of first refusal to top all other offers on that set. But if recent posts on the forum are any indication, I guess we all think we're owed something when it comes to cardboard.

But I agree with you - unless you're holding an auction where everyone knows and understands the situation, playing games like that by trying to play dealers and offers off of each other seems like a recipe for developing the wrong kind of reputation.

[Huck]

Originally Posted by raulus

Not sure why the dealer thought he was owed a right of first refusal to top all other offers on that set. But if recent posts on the forum are any indication, I guess we all think we're owed something when it comes to cardboard.

But I agree with you - unless you're holding an auction where everyone knows and understands the situation, playing games like that by trying to play dealers and offers off of each other seems like a recipe for developing the wrong kind of reputation.

The plan was not to run a show floor auction as in running from dealer to dealer with can you beat it offers. When I am at your table, give me the best price and perhaps we can work from there. As stated, I had my number, and if a dealer made a serious offer we could work from there. In the end, I received two good offers for the two lots, which paid for my autographs for the weekend and three solid Mantle's with a little change leftover. Also, cards I had no interest in were back in the flow of the hobby for someone else to own. A win from all sides.

[Balticfox]

Originally Posted by Belfast1933

2. Starter sets, no dupes, maybe 50-75 cards each?

I'd be very much interested in starter lots of 1954, 1955 and 1957 Topps if you posted them here on Net54 in BST.

Originally Posted by Belfast1933

1. Team focused lots (no dupes) of 15-20 cards, multiple years.

I'm a set builder not a team collector so I'd hate that. If your team lots were say ten cards from specific sets, I'd be interested.