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#1
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...would you make it a point to target HOFers or might you accumulate as many of one back type as possible, or some other strategy? Just curious, as there are so many approaches.
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#2
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personally...i'd rethink my strategy! just kidding...kinda!
the smart play...in my mind is to target the bigger name hof'ers as they will atleast hold their value over the long term...maybe even go up...as opposed to common players which are more boring...and more likely to decrease in value over time. Or if you have more coin to spend...go after the hof'ers with rare(r) backs. you may find if you ever complete the hof'er set...you have no interest in the commons and your hof'ers will be much quicker and easier to sell! just the opinion of an anti t206er. |
#3
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I don't see the point in starting a set that can never be completed. I would much rather pursue a set like the E95 Philadelphia Caramels which can be completed at far less expense.
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#4
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Start with the hall of famers. I saved a ton of money as they have generally continued to rise in value. Makes the end kinda boring going after commons but that strategy was the best advice I ever received regarding this set.
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#5
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Out of curiosity, what would you guess a lesser grade E95 set would cost to assemble.? I'm a set collector, and the inability to reasonably complete T206 does somewhat bother me.
__________________
Nationals attended: 4 (3with Otis) |
#6
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Off the top of my head my guess would be the $5000-7000 range.
James |
#7
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It all depends on how low grade you buy the Cobb and Wagner, and to lesser extent, the Matty and Plank. But I've found commons in a decent 3 go for around $100 or less while lesser HoFs like Bender, Chance et. al. go around 200-300 in a nicer 3.
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#8
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James,
I have thought about the completion aspect some. I personally wouldn't take it on to complete it in the overall sense. There are just so many ways to collect it. For example , one might set out to collect Polar Bear backs or some other back. You do make a fair point though. There are a few (especially the big 4) that I would never be able to obtain. I am not terribly familiar with e95. I have looked it up since your post....good looking cards and selection. Is yours a higher or lower grade set? Having been mostly a postwar collector, T206 is the one prewar set of its era I keep hearing and reading about. Perhaps I will dig a bit deeper.... Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Last edited by vintagebaseballcardguy; 01-18-2016 at 08:21 PM. |
#9
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Robert- the beauty of the T206 set, is that it can be collected so many different ways. YOU make up your own rules. HOFers, Southern Leaguers, Rare Backs, Errors, Misprints, high grade, low grade, etc, etc.
I think starting with HOFers, as was mentioned above is solid advice. I personally am a rare back collector, which always keeps things fun and interesting. Good luck. |
#10
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![]() Their website is an absolute treasure trove of images and information. Last edited by Orioles1954; 01-18-2016 at 08:51 PM. |
#11
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I'm sure there will be a T206 Wagner in Robert Edward or Heritge Spring auction. If you have the money for it, and if you are deciding if you should bid, do what Tom Cruise said in the movie...
He said, "Sometimes you gotta say WTF" |
#12
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I am just starting to collect t206 but am not trying to build a set. Just going for Cobbs. The guys who said go for the HOFers first make a good point. Easier to cash out if you decide not to complete it. I wish I had done that with the 52 Topps set I was working on as I lost some money on the commons.
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Successful transactions with peter spaeth, don's cards, vwtdi, wolf441, 111gecko, Clydewally, Jim, SPMIDD, MattyC, jmb, botn, E107collector, begsu1013, and a few others. |
#13
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Woo-Pig! |
#14
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WPS Razorback!
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#15
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I started collecting with ZERO agenda. I just liked the cards and wanted some. Then it turned into I want to get all the White Sox players. Then I bought the book T206 The Players and Their Stories, I wanted all of the "Bad Boys" then all of the "Overlooked by Cooperstown", then it turned into just any card that caught my eye. The great thing about this set is you can see cards but you'll never remember them all. Some cards you didn't like at first you can wind up loving. A card that has a certain great eye popping color can do it even if the cards design isn't the greatest. Speaking from a person who's spending isn't that much that's how my approach has been. The HOF players I do have I've spent under $100 on every single one, they aren't in the greatest condition but I'm willing to sacrifice a little just to own a HOF card. Just another way of looking at it.
__________________
429/524 Off of the monster 81% 49/76 HOF's 64% 18/20 Overlooked by Cooperstown 90% 22/39 Unique Backs 56% 80/86 Minors 93% 25/48 Southern Leaguers 52% 6/10 Billy Sullivan back run 60% 237PSA / 94 SGC / 98 RAW Excel spreadsheets only $5 T3, T201, T202, T204, T205, T206, T207, 1914 CJ, 1915 CJ, Topps 1952-1979, and more!!!! Checklists sold (20) T205 8/208 3.8% |
#16
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Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk |
#17
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Before sinking significant money into a project, I would advise to research as many sets or types of collecting before starting.
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#18
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Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk |
#19
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One key aspect of the T206 set is the availability of the cards. Given an unlimited budget you can buy 518 of the cards RIGHT NOW on eBay. Granted, many are simply over priced. There are also a number of great deals on the BST board. Finding the card you can want at a reasonable price is fairly easy if you are patient and not focusing on extremely high end cards. I'm at MN 510 now and the only thing keepin me from getting to 518 is budget. I've got some big HOFers to go. But they are always out there for sale. And generally at a reasonable price. I just need to build up the reserves a bit after some bigger purchases last year. Then I will make my next move to 511. It's gotta be a missing Cy for #511, doesn't it?
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#20
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I am not a set collector, but several years ago I did finish "my" T206 set - all major HOF'ers in either 5 or 6 grade. Very happy with my choices. I haven't bought a T206 in couple years now, but get a big smile looking over the dozen or so cards I do have - no way selling anytime soon. T206's are so classic you just can't go wrong over the long haul with nice copies. Always consider centering.
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#21
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I completed my Highlanders T206 set a while ago and have only been buying tougher backs until recently. I have now started collecting the HOF portraits and really enjoying the hunt. I go for the SGC 40/30 type cards which to me can have great eye appeal despite some technical flaws. These cards are not too hard to find and affordable (except for the Wagner and Plank of course) so I have really focused on centering and image. The Walter Johnson card is the best looking card in the set in my opinion. I saw it first on display at the Baseball HOF and that really got me into collecting the portraits. Anyway, this is one of the million or so ways to collect this great set!
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#22
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If I could do it over again, I wouldn't just target commons early on - I'd be looking for cards that were the best value. If you see a good price on a HOFer or rare variation and you can afford it, pick it up. It will save you the hassle of waiting for another one to pop up down the line. I also wouldn't worry about collecting a bunch and then giving up before you get to 518 or 520 (or whatever your goal is). If you decide midway that you don't want to pursue the set, T206s move very well. I do think it's good to put some real thought into what you want to do and not leap into anything. But as long as you paid market prices for them, you shouldn't have to worry about unloading them for similar amounts. People buy and sell them all the time. Good luck -
__________________
T205 (208/208) T206 (520/520) T207 (200/200) E90-1 (120/121) E91A/B/C (99/99) 1895 Mayo (16/48) N28/N29 Allen & Ginter (100/100) N162 Goodwin Champions (30/50) N184 Kimball Champions (37/50) Complete: E47, E49, E50, E75, E76, E229, N88, N91, R136, T29, T30, T38, T51, T53, T68, T73, T77, T118, T218, T220, T225 www.prewarcollector.com Last edited by Cozumeleno; 01-19-2016 at 09:51 AM. |
#23
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Personally, I just think there is so much more to pre-war cards than T206. If I ever get back into the ballgame again, I will definitely pursue T212 Obak cards. Hands down, the most attractive cards IMHO.
Couldn't agree more! It will be my next project.... |
#24
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You could always do team sets or back runs. I finished a low grade but presentable set with a couple of rare backs in the $15K range, but I had a head start because I'd picked them up without any intention of doing a set for a long time then one day I looked at it and said, Hey, you've got about 200 of them, why not go for it. Finished the 520 set a while ago. Might someday make a play for a Plank if the right one in the right price range comes up. I am missing the Broadleaf from a Davidson back run but have not been able to locate one.
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#25
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Whatever you do, take your time. It's a marathon not a sprint. And have fun on the journey too!!
__________________
Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
#26
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I've told this story many times,but here goes: Less than a year after I started collecting T206s I had a chance for a Plank, PSA 3. I ended up the underbidder; it sold for around $12K. I could have made another bid, but I decided that I could get so many cards that I needed with that money. What a mistake. ![]() So if you have a chance for something special, something you really want, get it. The rest of the set can wait. Good luck. Last edited by Sean; 01-20-2016 at 11:12 PM. |
#27
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Thanks for all the feedback everyone. You have given me a lot to think about as I study.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk |
#28
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Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk |
#29
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Buy 3 cards.
1) A raw beater for under $15 that you can touch and not worry about causing more damage. 2) A raw one in close to NRMT condition including nice corners but with a major flaw like a pinhole or crease to keep the cost down. Know what a fresh card looks like and again, you can't cause much damage. 3) A mid-range graded card. Buy the first 2 from the BST to ensure they are real. Once you have them in hand you'll better know how you want to collect the set. |
#30
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#31
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just reiterating what most have said here.
There are a lot of T206s on the market. So, be patient and strike on good value. It's a big set and some want to complete it as soon as possible. It's tempting because they are always up for auction or available for sale on the BST. But, take your time, get a feel of what the current prices are, and strike when you can. when i was actively collecting T206s, I targeted lower graded cards with high eye appeal. Stains, wax, pin holes and the like bring the grade down, but the card is otherwise stunning. I was able to get far - spent way less for cards that I was very happy with in terms of their aesthetics. |
#32
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Good luck hunting Rob! Who'd you get for your first pick up ?
__________________
429/524 Off of the monster 81% 49/76 HOF's 64% 18/20 Overlooked by Cooperstown 90% 22/39 Unique Backs 56% 80/86 Minors 93% 25/48 Southern Leaguers 52% 6/10 Billy Sullivan back run 60% 237PSA / 94 SGC / 98 RAW Excel spreadsheets only $5 T3, T201, T202, T204, T205, T206, T207, 1914 CJ, 1915 CJ, Topps 1952-1979, and more!!!! Checklists sold (20) T205 8/208 3.8% Last edited by Joshchisox08; 02-01-2016 at 05:24 AM. |
#33
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Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk |
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