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#51
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Posted By: MVSNYC
as mentioned above, in such a case you absolutely crack-it out. if you send PSA or SGC a card in a CSA or PRO holder, then there is already this assumption that it has been altered, because those companies are notorious for slabbing altered cards. so by sending it in raw, they will look at it with no preconceived notions. gabeesh? |
#52
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Posted By: Mark T
I believe Kevin does his checking of a card even though its slabbed. |
#53
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Posted By: Brian
Good luck on your gamble. |
#54
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Posted By: Dave F
By the way...I posed the question above but it may get lost in the shuffle, I know Steve and a couple others looked at the possibility of the card being recolored, which is I guess fairly common with these Ramlys. But does anybody think that would have been done and no effort would have been made to get the mark off the back of the card? Trimming is obviously the major concern to me..I think. |
#55
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Posted By: leon
On T204, T205 and N300's, the tips of the cards are notoriously known for being recolored. I thought I saw it on one of the tips on your card too...but too hard to tell from scan. I have had, and seen, many with this issue. Good luck on the card you bought.....If I had to take a guess I think it will be trimmed and recolored....but that is absolutely a guess....regards |
#56
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Posted By: Peter Thomas
Dave, I think that the card will grade either aut. or a 6. I have an oversized Plank that must have come from the sheet that was cut 10 or so years ago, so I don't think that it came from that sheet. I would look at card under black light to check for recoloring, but I don't think that it is recolored. The mark on the front looks like a fingernail indentation and the mark on the back looks like a dirt smudge. I think that the card may be slightly trimmed. I think SGC will have seen the card and would recognize it if you break it out, PSA probably not. SGC did grade many cards cut from that sheet years ago (they regret having graded them). I had my oversized Plank placed in an aut. holder and it looks great, your card looks even better. |
#57
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Posted By: Dave F
Thanks for the info Peter. Yours is definately one of the opinions I was wanting. |
#58
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Posted By: G. MAINES
Roll the dice again! |
#59
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Posted By: quan
peter is right...sgc seems to be right on these kind of things. i think they have someone monitor the board and ebay etc. |
#60
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Posted By: Dave F
Ahh you might be unto something Gil- |
#61
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Posted By: Kevin Saucier
"Maybe it would be worth striking a deal with Kevin to get a feel ahead of time to determine what type of work if any has been done on the card." |
#62
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Posted By: Mark T
You and i may have something in the works.... (: |
#63
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Posted By: Dave F
It is funny Mark. There are a couple people that if lightening struck twice for me and this card did get a numerical grade that I'd obviously be willing to deal with ahead of just anyone else....but even with all the negative vibes about the card I've received some amusing offers for it as is, in its CSA state. |
#64
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Posted By: Ben
Dave did you get my email? I never heard back from you. |
#65
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Posted By: Dave F
Ben, if your being serious...then no I didn't get one from you. |
#66
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Posted By: Ben
Yes, I'm serious. I've been having problems with my hotmail account which is why I was asking. I'll try again through yahoo. |
#67
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Posted By: Sean
Zooming in on the large scan the corners seemed to be touched up...I'm not sure if this is altering but if it came back only recolored (not trimmed) could you wear down the corners to remove the color? It could still probably get it to grade a 3 or 4? |
#68
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Posted By: Dave F
By the way...over the next couple days if anyone has ever busted out one of these CSA slabs I'd love to hear the best way to do it...the only ones I've ever done were SGC which were pretty easy with a flathead, obviously I don't want to screw this card up getting it out. |
#69
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Posted By: barrysloate
Dave- yesterday I tried breaking open a PRO slab for one of my consignors and for the life of me I couldn't find the seam. Finally, I called SGC and they said just submit it as is and they would break it for me. How do you open a PRO holder? |
#70
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Posted By: Dave F
Barry...I've never tried a PRO holder either..but there is no way I'm submitting the card in the holder its in now..and I don't think in your case I'd submit one in a PRO holder either. |
#71
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Posted By: barrysloate
I'm fully aware that every card in a PRO holder is subject to doubt. But I refuse to sell it in a PRO, so either it will be graded NR MT or Authentic. That's a risk we have to take. |
#72
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Posted By: Mark T
Try this: Take a hack saw or small saw and cut off a small area near the 8.5 corner. Then use a flat head screwdriver and start to pry the cut corner open. As you do this the card should be on a flat surface with a towel below it. once it starts to separate use your fingers to help take off the top. |
#73
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Posted By: JK
Ive never opened up a pro or csa slab, but I open sgc and psa slabs the same way - take a small, handheld trimmer (like you'd use for trimming plants or small branches) and cut off one corner of the slab (preferably up where the flip is located). Once you have removed the corner, stick in a screw driver and separate the two halves. Very easy, just be careful of flying plastic when you cut off the corner. |
#74
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Posted By: barrysloate
SGC and PSA are easy to open...and I got a couple of cards from CTA whom I had never heard of before. Those were rather easy too. It took just a few seconds to find the seam. |
#75
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Posted By: Joe D.
I second Josh's method. |
#76
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Posted By: Joe Jones
Another point I would add is to keep the slab flat on a table during this process. If the slab is tipped vertically there is a possibility that the card will slide down and get pinched in the holder (could leave an indent on the card). |
#77
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Posted By: Jim VB
I have successfully used a tile nippers to clip a corner off. (These are usually used to cut little pieces of ceramic tile.) Little "bites" to start. Once you have an opening, the flat head to pry it open is the best. |
#78
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Posted By: Mike Snyder
I have always found that a band saw is most effective. |
#79
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Posted By: quan
light saber... |
#80
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Posted By: Bob Lamb
Try a dremel tool with a small cutting bit...Bob |
#81
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Posted By: keyway
Go to a hardware store. They make a small plastic or formica cutting tool. Simply run it up the seam at the top corner of the card, 4, 5 or 6 times and it will open right up. I do it all the time. Make sure you pull the tool away from the card. |
#82
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Posted By: Jeff Lichtman
Barry, use a sledgehammer. Probably won't hurt the value of the card inside. |
#83
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Posted By: Rob Dewolf
I've had good success with bolt cutters. Come to think of it, I've used those bolt cutters more on card slabs than on bolts. |
#84
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Posted By: Jeff Lichtman
Rob, I've got a small can of WD-40 on my desk at home -- which has never been used on anything but to remove goo on slabs. |
#85
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Posted By: Rob Dewolf
Careful, Jeff, I see a new post on the horizon: "How does using a commercial cleaner on you're (sic) card slabs impact prices of Barry Bonds cards?" |
#86
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Posted By: barrysloate
Jeff- I tried a quarter stick of dynamite...boy, that didn't work out too well! |
#87
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Posted By: Tom Nieves
Dave, |
#88
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Posted By: MVSNYC
c'mon Tom, don't ruin it for him... |
#89
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Posted By: Tom Nieves
MVSNYC, |
#90
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Posted By: Rob Dewolf
<gulp> |
#91
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Posted By: Mark T
The seller should have stated that.... |
#92
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Posted By: Jeff Lichtman
Who's the seller? |
#93
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Posted By: Tom Nieves
Tuttle (rockbottomsports, consignmints, jtcards, etc.) |
#94
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Posted By: Jeff Lichtman
Well, at least he doesn't own the CSA machine that sealed that card. |
#95
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Posted By: Dave F
Tom- |
#96
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Posted By: Joe Jones
Take a look at the sellers latest Negative feedback and the item that was sold. |
#97
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Posted By: leon
the link |
#98
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Posted By: Sean BH
He has a few others: |
#99
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Posted By: Steve
David |
#100
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Posted By: Ben
Dave was kind enough to orchestrate a trade with me on the T204 Plank. Thanks Dave. It's a card I've always wanted, and one that will reside in my collection for a long time (I hope). |
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