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#1
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Posted By: DJ
I'm in a crossroads as far as completing my T206 set. I always had a general idea of how to collect the set when I started many, many years ago, but with prices escalating (I'm now paying 40-50 for VG commons!) and a growing interest, I'm kind of swaying. |
#2
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Posted By: Brian Weisner
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#3
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Posted By: Steve M.
and have started again. For my first set my emphasis was just to complete it. I wasn't particulary condition concious as long as they weren't rags. Gave little or no attention to backs except that I was working on a Downey batting back set as I had the Uzit and about ten or so other backs. Always wanted a Drum but not now. Now I'm going for a graded (SGC) set. I'm about 43% there and likely will not complete it during my lifetime. As I collect I do concentrate on the portraits wherever possible. They make a nice sub-set especially the Giants. And finally, not to hijack your post, I emailed you Ted with the fact that I have the Young with a Piedmont back. |
#4
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Posted By: T206Collector
I completed the set (minus Wagner, Magie, Plank and Doyle) by basically buying commons in bulk lots on ebay and picking up HOFers, SL and rarities along the way when I thought a good deal was to be had. When I would get doubles, I would sell the lesser condition and use the funds to purchase additional cards. |
#5
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Posted By: Sean
Howdy, |
#6
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Posted By: barry arnold
I finally decided to do mostly good to very good (yes,i'm a slabber) and am |
#7
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Posted By: Brian Weisner
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#8
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Posted By: barry arnold
Thanks,Brian! |
#9
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Posted By: joe
Hello, I just collect Detroit players, completed that type set long ago. Did not care about backs, sold a Polar Bear back Ty Cobb years ago for $150.00 because I had doubles. Kept the best front. I have all the cards graded, lucky with some buys, Green Cobb is an SGC 70, Bat on is SGC 70, Bat off is SGC 50 and Red is PSA 4. Most others are SGC 50 and SGC 60, a couple SGC 30. |
#10
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Posted By: steve yawitz
I don't necessarily have any specific focus since I'm hoping to finish the set (sans Wagner, Plank and Doyle) over the course of my collecting days. But I do mainly look for cards with bold color and crisp registration, even if the cards are only in otherwise fair condition. |
#11
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Posted By: barry arnold
Yawie, |
#12
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Posted By: Lee
I've been trying to get all the hall of famers first for my set in grade 2 or better. I've paid almost no attention to rare backs at this point. After I get all the HOF's, besides the big ones of course, I'll start focusing on backs and commons. Haven't gotten any southern leaguers yet! My set is only about 5% complete right now, but it is growing by about 0.5% a week. |
#13
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Posted By: Bob
I was fortunate enough to complete the T206 set in the mid 90's (minus the Big 4 plus I still need the green Cobb which I'll get in time) in VGEX creaseless condition. Some cards are exish and exmtish but the set is pretty homogenous with regard to condition. |
#14
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Posted By: Brett
I was going to try to get the set of commons and southern leaguers, but theres just so many to get. i rarely won a lot on ebay because of people with deeper pockets, so i sort of lost interest in t206s. i really got into E cards, like the e93-e94-e97-e98 sets. i only have to collect 30, and not over 500. the e93 set shouldn't be that tough to get, except for the Cobb, Wagner, Matty and Young, although the Plank and Waddell's go for alot more lately. The prices for HOFers go for rediculous prices compared to E cards. I still have about 40 - 50-ish t206s, but i guess i'll sell some of them to make way for more E cards. |
#15
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Posted By: JimB
I still have about 15 upgrades needed to make my whole set crease-free. Generally I have gone for commons in vg/ex to ex and HOFs in ex to ex/mt (some higher, a few lesser). Luckily, I finished most of this a while ago before prices got crazy. I am upgrading these last few commons, but otherwise leaving as is - roughly an ex set. High-grade HoFs and rarities are graded, but 90% is raw. |
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