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#1
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I have had "A" cards get graded by other graders. No doctoring. Just cracking out and resubmitting. Graders can get it wrong.
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#2
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/1935-Nation...rdt=true&rt=nc |
#3
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#4
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looks pretty funky, the corner wear does not match the edges, whole lower left area stands out but what the heck do I know?
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#5
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I would guess it's the bottom border that was deemed trimmed.
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#6
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The top and bottom looked bad with a quick look at the front. Then I looked at the back..... I think all four sides are trimmed.
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#7
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I could care less about the grade. I have 1’s that look like 7’s and 5’s with a undetectable surface wrinkle that looks like a 10. I have 1’s with back damage ( I could care less about the back ) that are razor sharp that looks like 9’s so yes buy the card if you like it.
One other thing, TRIAPD The Registry Is A Powerful Drug. |
#8
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Then I sure as hell hope you haven’t been bitching about the tpgs missing the micro trim jobs that are actually well done.
Last edited by glynparson; 05-15-2020 at 09:21 AM. |
#9
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I beg your pardon?? Do you have me confused for another member?
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#10
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#11
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PRICE-1...cAAOSwLDZeoOAz
I always buy the holder when the seller does not accurately list the card and there is the opportunity to make a no risk profit - even if it is just a small profit. This happens more often than you would think. For example, I recently purchased this 1960 Topps Hank Aaron for a mere $70.00. Notice that the listing says it was a BVG 4. However, the holder indicates it is a 5 (and it was). I already had this card and didn’t need another one. But, couldn’t pass up the opportunity to earn some Ebay bucks and free money when I flip the card. Win-win. To answer the main question: I’m primarily a collector and do not worry too much about the holder’s grade. My rule of thumb is to not pay more than the next grade up’s price. So, I’m willing to pay a middle of the road 5’s price for a superior looking 4. My two cents. |
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