Could someone explain the "soaking" process ?

[Leon]

Yeap, throw a card in water (or your preference). Let it soak, take it out and let it dry or dry it. I have done it in warm water many times. The cards dry.

[irv]

Originally Posted by insidethewrapper

Could someone explain the "soaking" process completely? It sounds like you put a card in water, is that true ? I can't believe the card wouldn't soak up the water and be ruined , waterlogged and wrinkled. When is it useful to "soak" ? Thanks for the help.

Originally Posted by Leon

Yeap, throw a card in water (or your preference). Let it soak, take it out and let it dry or dry it. I have done it in warm water many times. The cards dry.

Wondered about this, and other "cleaning" things I have read on here and had the same concerns as the OP.

How long do you let it soak, is the purpose of soaking just to clean them, does it get wrinkles out? I have no idea why this is done?

[trdcrdkid]

Originally Posted by irv

Wondered about this, and other "cleaning" things I have read on here and had the same concerns as the OP.

How long do you let it soak, is the purpose of soaking just to clean them, does it get wrinkles out? I have no idea why this is done?

The purpose is usually to get paper and glue off the back of the card, which is common in old cards that were often pasted in albums. Most of the glues used back then were water-soluble, which makes soaking relatively easy, but sometimes you find a glue that's tougher. You never know which is the case until you actually soak it.

[irv]

Originally Posted by trdcrdkid

It's best to press it between two flat surfaces with something heavy on top while it's drying, which takes several days. Here is a post I wrote last year that details the process I've used for successfully soaking cards over the past 20+ years:

http://www.net54baseball.com/showpos...70&postcount=7

Originally Posted by trdcrdkid

The purpose is usually to get paper and glue off the back of the card, which is common in old cards that were often pasted in albums. Most of the glues used back then were water-soluble, which makes soaking relatively easy, but sometimes you find a glue that's tougher. You never know which is the case until you actually soak it.

Thanks guys, appreciate the info. My 52's are pretty "clean" with no tape or glue marks on the back or fronts so I think I will just bypass this process altogether.

Also, don't know if you can answer, but what exactly is "Shilling" Read that more than once in a few threads/posts so thought I'd ask here while you guys were explaining some things for me.

Thanks......Irv

[1952boyntoncollector]

Originally Posted by irv

Thanks guys, appreciate the info. My 52's are pretty "clean" with no tape or glue marks on the back or fronts so I think I will just bypass this process altogether.

Also, don't know if you can answer, but what exactly is "Shilling" Read that more than once in a few threads/posts so thought I'd ask here while you guys were explaining some things for me.

Thanks......Irv

Shilling is when a seller at an auction bids on his own item or has someone on his behalf do it to basically create a hidden reserve so they can bid the card up to an amount that if real bidder wants the card that bidder would have to bid over that amount....the fake bidding also creates an impression that there are other bidders out there on the card as underbiddiers creating artificial value..

if you win a card for 1200 and the bid under you was 1120...you believe at least a bit that if you were to sell the card next week you would get close to 1120 at least...but if that 1120 bidder was just the seller of the original card then that creates false value..and maybe the card now sells for 700...unless you shill the card on your own and fake someone else out to pay more...

[irv]

Originally Posted by 1952boyntoncollector

Shilling is when a seller at an auction bids on his own item or has someone on his behalf do it to basically create a hidden reserve so they can bid the card up to an amount that if real bidder wants the card that bidder would have to bid over that amount....the fake bidding also creates an impression that there are other bidders out there on the card as underbiddiers creating artificial value..

if you win a card for 1200 and the bid under you was 1120...you believe at least a bit that if you were to sell the card next week you would get close to 1120 at least...but if that 1120 bidder was just the seller of the original card then that creates false value..and maybe the card now sells for 700...unless you shill the card on your own and fake someone else out to pay more...

Great explanation, 1952.

Thanks.

[1952boyntoncollector]

Yes many posters will agree I give a lot of useful information here ....

[ls7plus]

Originally Posted by 1952boyntoncollector

Shilling is when a seller at an auction bids on his own item or has someone on his behalf do it to basically create a hidden reserve so they can bid the card up to an amount that if real bidder wants the card that bidder would have to bid over that amount....the fake bidding also creates an impression that there are other bidders out there on the card as underbiddiers creating artificial value..

if you win a card for 1200 and the bid under you was 1120...you believe at least a bit that if you were to sell the card next week you would get close to 1120 at least...but if that 1120 bidder was just the seller of the original card then that creates false value..and maybe the card now sells for 700...unless you shill the card on your own and fake someone else out to pay more...

Shilling has probably most often occurred in the past when the auction house "sees" your maximum bid (which was supposed to be known only to you) and "cha-chings" the bidding right up to but not over your max bid, usually in a flurry of bids a short time before the auction closes. I had this happen with my 1923 Lections Ruth (obtained in a Mastro auction--what a surprise, in retrospect!), and several other major auction houses, BUT NEVER, EVER REA (thank goodness that integrity and morals don't always vanish when money is involved!).

Best wishes,

Larry

[deadballera]

I have had success soaking old gum/tobacco cards with good success too.

After a few attempts on less valuable cards, I have no worries on trying the better ones. It does work if you know what you are doing.

[trdcrdkid]

It's best to press it between two flat surfaces with something heavy on top while it's drying, which takes several days. Here is a post I wrote last year that details the process I've used for successfully soaking cards over the past 20+ years:

http://www.net54baseball.com/showpos...70&postcount=7

[ls7plus]

Originally Posted by trdcrdkid

It's best to press it between two flat surfaces with something heavy on top while it's drying, which takes several days. Here is a post I wrote last year that details the process I've used for successfully soaking cards over the past 20+ years:

http://www.net54baseball.com/showpos...70&postcount=7

Thanks David. I printed out your previous post and believe it will be very helpful.

Sincerely,

Larry