Set collectors: which school of thought do you subscribe to?

[buymycards]

Interesting question, Bill. It may depend on which set you are working on. You have a lot more choices with a readily attainable set, such as 33 Goudey's or T206's. I collect Louisiana issues, and with a set such as Weil Baking, you have to pick up cards when they become available at a reasonable price because there aren't many of these cards around.

With a set like T206, the "completionist" side of me (is that a word?) wants to complete the set and the tightwad side of me wants to complete it at the lowest cost. Let's say that you decide to collect only SGC40 T206's. Chances are that you will pay more than you should for some of the cards so you can make some progress on your set. Otherwise you will never complete it. When it comes time to sell, you will never get your investment back on these cards. IMO, the only way you can be sure to recoup your money would be to patiently wait to purchase cards that are selling for well under the average value, but once again, it will take many years to complete the set.

If you look at a card like a SGC40 T206 common, there are dozens, or hundreds of each card, and I don't see any scenario where they will increase in value, especially if your family would need to dispose of them fairly quickly after your death and they can't keep them on the market long enough to get the best price.

So, why not collect a slightly lower grade and have the satisfaction of being able to see those cards come through the mail every couple of days and watch your collection grow?

If you are only concerned about long term investment value, then an entirely different line of thinking will apply, but there are many board members who are much more knowledgeable than I am who can point you in the right direction.

Enjoy your set!

Rick

[x2drich2000]

I generally follow the same pattern as Rick, I try to find cards that have good eye appeal on more readily available sets. However, I also look at what the high price cards in a set sell for before I start. When I first started my e93 set, I knew I couldn't afford a Cobb or Wagner in a higher grade, so I built the set in mostly poor-good condition (still need a Cobb and Plank at a reasonable price). Same thing with the w554 set. Both of those sets are also not extremely difficult to find so can be more discerning and upgrade when I find something nicer at a good price. On the other hand, this year I've started an e92 Nadja set which just by the rarity of some of cards I'll pick them up regardless of their condition. When I first started this set, I figured it may take between 10-15 years to complete even buying whatever was available.

DJ

[BradH]

For me, a large set such as T206 has always been about quantity over quality. As long as a card is centered, I'm usually happy to add it to my set. I don't mind creases or even some back damage. I also have no preference on the back brand for this set. I'll make upgrades along the way, but generally I'm not too concerned about having some P-F cards in the set.

For smaller sets, such as '33 DeLong, '55 Topps hockey or '55 Topps All-American football, I took my time and went for quality because the small set size made it possible to be more discerning.

Also, I buy mostly raw and I crack almost all my graded cards from their slabs. I get buying TPG cards and understand that it adds some security (especially if you're buying mostly over the Internet), but I've saved lots of money over the years simply by educating myself and understanding the cards I'm seeking. For some of the more expensive cards I've purchased that were graded ('33 DeLong Gehrig or '55 Topps Gordie Howe, for example), I will usually leave them slabbed in case I ever need to liquidate them quickly.

Just my two cents.

[rainier2004]

Great answers already mentioned above. I would reiterate collect what you like. I have been a set collector my whole life and have learned some things. Decide what condition is acceptable to you while considering the priciest cards in that grade range ( did you see the price of the psa 3 Magie in LOTG?). I like uniformity in my sets, Ill sell the ex/nrmt cards if the set is gd/vg which is where I find myself a lot. I also think buying "place holders" is a waste of cash unless they are dirt cheap or a tough issue that demands it...I don't think t206s fall into that category as a general 520 set.

I collect raw as well, crack 'em out. So not to get on my soap box, but I always thought collecting a certain companies cards in a specific grade would be extremely limiting. The reasons have already been explained plus doesn't that feel restricting? Freedom is the ability to do as you please though so it may just my perspective.

[kamikidEFFL]

When building a set I put these guidelines to use.

1.My interest in the set--most important thing why else Build it

2.Research on the set--Tells me a lot. How many rare cards or difficulty of the set. How many are graded high or low. Money I will spend overall.

3.How many cards are in the set--Don't always like dealing with large sets with multiple variations. That's my own preference

4.Check on how many big $$$ cards are in the set--One reason I didn't build the 33 Goudey Set. 2 Ruth's and 2 Gehrig's= 2 much haha

5.What grade/condition of the set I want--Does eye appeal matter or is it i just want the set because i like the set. My 38 goudey set is PSA 1-3 just because i like the design of the cards. my 34 goudey set i want a nicer looking set so i buy psa 5+.

Those are my guidelines when building a set or before I get ready to build a set. If you can answer these questions above or a few of them that usually gives you an idea of where you want your set or collection to be. Eye appeal isn't always necessary to everyone. If your trying to invest and possibly down the line sell these the better the grade the better money you may get but again in this hobby you never know. Sometimes if there is a lower grade card but the money is right buy it and upgrade later. I hope this helps you. Best of luck on the set if you choose to tackle it.

[wonkaticket]

I tend to go for quality over qty and I'm always upgrading. But I tend to use this with anything I collect where I can. Now I will define that quality to me is the best looking card I can find not always the highest graded I have 4's that I replaced 6-7's in my set of T206s. It's about the overall look of the card and uniformity that makes a set for me.






Also I think you mean 4 Ruth's and 2 Gehrig's for the 1933 Goudey.

Cheers,

John

[E93]

John,
Your set is absolutely stunning....and there is no doubt it will sell for a premium if you ever do sell it.

I am with John, with a set like T206, I go for overall eye-appeal and consistency throughout my set.
JimB

[ullmandds]

Historically...I was never a "vintage" set collector...I was always more of a type collector.

The first vintage set I completed was e90-2...a tiny tiny set of 10...took me about a year. I then went after E94...which has always been a favorite of mine.

For me...consistency of grade/eye appeal is most important, regardless of actual # grade. This can be especially challenging Esp with a set like e94 which is not readily available in any grade!

[wonkaticket]

Thanks Jim, that Bender & Davis are super nice. And that Matty wow!

[frankbmd]

I like eye appeal just as much as John and JimB, but would add that a complete Monster is more frequently sold at Napa Auto Parts than in a Lamborghini show room. Therefore although uniformity presents nicely, I enjoy having many nice cards in my set and don't mind having a few stragglers as well. Like Wonka and others, I am continually upgrading at this point (at the 518 plateau) to improve the overall appeal of my set, but I do not foresee selling my EXMT examples for the sake of uniformity. Regardless of the condition level you select, if you shop patiently, you shouldn't lose. My set covers the condition gamut from Poor- to NM+, averaging VG+ currently. The advantage of having 518 VG+ cards matters not to me. My Cobbs are EX+, VGEX+, Fair and Authentic. I like them all and all will ultimately sell for more than I paid for them (but perhaps over my dead body).

[conor912]

Originally Posted by wonkaticket

I will define that quality to me is the best looking card I can find not always the highest graded I have 4's that I replaced 6-7's in my set of T206s. It's about the overall look of the card and uniformity that makes a set for me.

+1

I just replaced a ton of 5's with 4's, which is great because it frees up a nice chunk of cash. Quality is very often not defined by the grade.

At the end of the day, you should want the cards to be uniform, not the slabs.

[T3s]

Hi,
I think another aspect to keep in mind is how you acquire the cards. For instance, one by one on Ebay or BST, or in large lots from an auction house. Tactically speaking, you can generally get a decent value and fill a lot of holes in your set by finding a nice T206 lot in an auction house. Whatever duplicates you obtain can be sold, therefor reducing your cost basis on the lot. I can easily recall (as I'm sure many on the board can) buying a large lot, keeping a bunch of cards, then selling the dupes and cards I've upgraded for as much as I paid for the whole lot. Free cards!

Being a seller as well as a buyer is one of the keys to building a set quicker and cheaper. I've always been focused on building sets and have always used this strategy. It's also quite fun when the box arrives and you're able to go through stacks of cards. You can't keep them all, but it's cool and a valuable experience.

Hope that helps.

Happy Collecting,
Craig

[drmondobueno]

I started collecting again last year after a 25 year hiatus. And of course I started in on the monster. I began buying ungraded cards but found I was running into a number of issues- trimmed/altered cards, ooor presentation, etc. I also found my eyesight to be changing and insufficient to be discerning, so I went for graded cards and focused on the HOFers. Somewhere down the line I realized I also liked backstamped and beater cards, so I have a number of those in my set, personal preference. As my focus has expanded, I am settling for lower graded cards with nice presentation to finish the set. And the t201 set bit me. My focus there are higher graded cards; a much smaller set with more reasonable prices. Try getting an Sgc 84 Cobb bat off for 1500 bucks. This s a nice hobby, has displanted my other sickness of building bamboo rods in the winter...most of the time...

And the upgrading continues on the Monster, of course...

[the 'stache]

Some great input thus far, guys. I really appreciate it.

Part of my problem as a collector, and in life itself I guess, is that I over-analyze the hell out of everything. It's driven the women I've been with nuts. I guess that's why I'm talking about maybe having a wife and kids in the hypothetical.

Since I know the commons of the T206 aren't going to go up much in price, maybe I'll focus a little more on the Hall of Famers, stars and Southern leaguers now, and work on the commons a little more later.

John, those cards are gorgeous!

[Wildfireschulte]

It always comes down to collect what you like - otherwise, just buy Google stock and call it a day. I just spent yesterday culling thru and counting my T206's to figure out my Monster Number. Cards that I haven't looked at for more than 12 years (since my dad and I quit doing shows). Over this period I focused on more 3D items (bats, balls, gloves). None of the cards are graded and most are G-VG, but what fun getting reintroduced to them. After digging thru boxes, I was holding at 347 different cards - I flipped thru a binder of mostly non-sports and found my LaJoie portrait - a wrinkled mess with a pin hole above his head (I need to learn how to post pictures) - I would generously grade Fair - but an absolutely beautiful card. I remember paying $10 for it at a Cleveland National in the 90's and turning down offers of $30 on the same day. I am glad that I kept it because now I'm at 348 including that rosy cheeked LaJoie.

Obviously the guys that focused on quality 20 years ago were handsomely rewarded when slabbing companies systematically confirmed how rare the true Ex+ tobacco cards are, but that ship has sailed. Since that spike, the value of lower grade T cards has been pulled up and has proven to be a solid investment as well - not Google returns, more like AT&T. For me, I'm cool continuing the chase for VG- white (ish) borders.