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#21
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Howard, thank you for mentioning it.
I'm confident on this in terms of real vs fake with the 1928 George Ruth Candy cards: Fake: Small card number with sepia image and grey back (deceptive counterfeits mentioned in the catalog) Fake: Small card number with poor, blotchy black and white image, grey back (deceptive counterfeits mentioned in the catalog) Fake: Small card number with a poor, severely cropped front image Real: backs are beige or brownish on vintage paper, or high quality white vintage paper like Leon's (white backs too). Real: Quality white paper with small card number, beige/brownish back Real: Haven't located a fake with a large card number Real: Small card number with correctly colored back, which will have a quality front image Real: Blank backs or ad backs Examples of the small card number with grey back, one sepia and one black and white: ![]() ![]() Examples of a correctly colored backs, which include an obviously better front image: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() For each card in the set, there should exist a deceptive counterfeit that has either: 1. Small card number with a grey back and a very blotchy, dark tinted black and white front image 2. Small card number with a grey back and sepia front image, (like the two above examples) Card #2 is the toughest but easy if you consider these (real on top, fake on bottom):
![]() Card #6 is tough but easy considering this (top real, bottom fake): ![]() Card #4 (real on top, fake on bottom): ![]() Card #3 (all real): ![]() Card #1 (real on top, fake on bottom): ![]() Fro Joy's are easier than these
Last edited by Clutch-Hitter; 05-17-2012 at 08:41 AM. |
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