How to spot fake t206 cards?

[CharleyBrown]

I was curious as to how you can determine if a t206 card is a fake. I recently was offered two particular raw t206 cards, and I'm not sure whether to take the deal or not. I've included images of the two cards. I've never owned a t206, as I generally collect Jackie Robinson. Any help is appreciated!!

[CharleyBrown]

From everything I've found... the Walter Johnson Hands at Chest card is a Piedmont 350, but this one is a Piedmont 150? Definite fake?

[FrankWakefield]

I suggest you buy 3 or 4 real T206s, try to get 2 or 3 different backs. Don't get slabbed cards.

Once they're in hand, then study them. You'll ascertain how they feel. Notice the font style and color for the caption on the front. Look at the difference between the finish of the front of the card and the back. Notice the color of ink used for the ad on the back. Look at that frame around the color on the front. Feel the thickness of the card. If you get a black light, and then illuminate a genuine card, it won't fluoresce, there are no brighteners in that paper for the UV rays to hit; many reprints will fluoresce. Go to some card shows and ask to see some ungraded T206s. I think there are still dealers who have them loose, not in holders.

After you've handled several, seen a bunch, you'll develop a feel for what they're supposed to look like. Then, look at a few reprints at a show, to see what those look like.

You could get a small black light / flash light for about $15.... well worth the purchase price if you're going to be buying old cards.

[CharleyBrown]

Sounds good Frank. Thanks. I wasn't ready to get into them quite yet, but I found a pretty good deal on these. I'm skeptical, particularly because I have yet to see a Walter Johnson hands at chest Piedmont 150. I guess I might pass on them before spending over $100.

[White Borders]

The Johnson is definitely fake. Johnson Glove-at-Chest is a 350-460 series card, thus it won't be found with a P150 back. Also the back scan does not show a factory # at the bottom.

Best Regards,
Craig

[CharleyBrown]

Craig, thanks for the help. I am glad I trusted my instincts, and passed on the deal. It also looks like the centering on the front and on the back are entirely different.

Thanks again.. helped save me a few dollars that I can use to buy more cards. I think I might pick up a few t206 at the White Plains NY show this weekend to gain a little familiarity with the cards.

[steve B]

The front and back centering being different is not unusual.

The wrong series and no factory designation is the big tip off.

Steve B

[biggsdaddycool]

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=390652283288

No factory designation example.

[Tao_Moko]

I had a cheat sheet I created in the eighties and early nineties when I worked in a local card shop. There are plenty of great resources but I'd bet these will get you by:

1. Look for gloss. Gloss on a T-206 is either shellac or fake
2. Hold the card to the light and if you can see the reverse image then it's fake.
3. Name and Team Letters should be a brownish color and not black. This is where having a known authentic card to compare against is valuable.
4. Use a loop and look for the dots. Reference card is great here too.
5. The color within the frame tends to roll off and usually a little bit over the image frame.

*Some have a clear scratch or rub mark on the lower back of the card that said "reprint". You can also determine many by front back combo but if you're new to T-206 then that's less valuable to you right now. If you follow 1-3 above you'll be fine in most cases. Just don't spend an arm and a leg without knowing for sure.

[biggsdaddycool]

So you would agree or disagree with the Piedmont factory stamping missing on the back is considered a reprint? Essentially do ALL authentic Piedmont backs have a factory indicator?

[Sean]

It looks fake to me.
1- There is no Factory number
2- There seems to be a shiny area at the bottom on the back. It looks like something was removed, perhaps the word REPRINT.
3- The corner wear looks way too uniform, so it was probably done to make the card appear old and worn.
4- There seems to be no stains or dirt or discoloration or creases of any kind. Very unusual in a card showing that much corner wear.

I would definitly stay away from this one.

[Bdt1981]

Originally Posted by Tao_Moko

I had a cheat sheet I created in the eighties and early nineties when I worked in a local card shop. There are plenty of great resources but I'd bet these will get you by:

1. Look for gloss. Gloss on a T-206 is either shellac or fake
2. Hold the card to the light and if you can see the reverse image then it's fake.
3. Name and Team Letters should be a brownish color and not black. This is where having a known authentic card to compare against is valuable.
4. Use a loop and look for the dots. Reference card is great here too.
5. The color within the frame tends to roll off and usually a little bit over the image frame.

*Some have a clear scratch or rub mark on the lower back of the card that said "reprint". You can also determine many by front back combo but if you're new to T-206 then that's less valuable to you right now. If you follow 1-3 above you'll be fine in most cases. Just don't spend an arm and a leg without knowing for sure.

online it says you can see thru the real ones

[oldcardyoungguy]

Smell test, if you have a good nose

[Louisville_Hugger]

Originally Posted by Bdt1981

online it says you can see thru the real ones

Wherever you read that it is wrong.