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#1
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This has baffled me for awhile. If a strip card is hand cut. How does one determine whether the card was later trimmed or whether it just looks that way from the original cutting?
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#2
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Usually the standard (as far as I have seen it used) is if the full original border is visible, it can get a numerical grade. If it's cut inside of that border, then it would just get Authentic.
The Post cards circa '61-'62 are good examples of this. There is a black border along the cards, and if this black border is visible all around the card, you can get a number. No black all around, then "A" is your grade. |
#3
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Did all strip cards have some kind of border??
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#4
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True strip cards will have a border, as they were meant to be cut around it. There are quite a few things we consider strip cards that came from boxes, ads, posters etc.....those will sometimes not have borders and then it's the amount of "border" (the area surrounding the card) that gets taken into account, whether the card will get a # or an "AUT". Also, as far as the timing of the cut....I have been told by the graders that it could be cut 30 minutes ago, or 100 yrs ago, they see it the same way. For the thousandth time, my view is that ALL strip cards should get a "handcut" qualifier. If they are given that qualifier I don't mind the numerical grade. If they aren't, then I don't think a numerical grade should be given. That's always been my view and still is.....Others have their own point of view which is great too....regards
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__________________
Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
#5
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Not all strips had borders. W590, for example. My view is grade them all, taking into account the relative sizes and configurations of the strips. If they have borders by all means use those as the minimum sizing. I think writing "handcut" and giving a grade is silly--of course it is handcut--unless the strip is known with a factory cut.
__________________
Read my blog; it will make all your dreams come true. https://adamstevenwarshaw.substack.com/ Or not... Last edited by Exhibitman; 07-19-2010 at 12:00 PM. |
#6
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I am having fun putting together the w580 boxing set. From my limited understanding, there are two different versions of each card from this set. One is the standard strip card variety, and the other was produced in Thailand and was printed on different stock, and was issued as individual cards, rather than in strips. (Adam would know way more about this than me.) I am not sure if there is a distinction made on the label between the two. Fun set to put together though. Of course, no one knows what comprises the exact checklist for these cards. PSA lists 52 cards in the set, but I have put together a list of 59. I have a couple in RAW condition that PSA doesn't list on their registry. Last edited by wake.up.the.echoes; 07-19-2010 at 01:29 PM. |
#7
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So you are telling me that if this strip is cut the cards won't have borders? They might not have dotted lines but they will definitely have borders. And no, to me, the qualifier is NOT silly, it's imperative. If not then you have people that don't know a strip from a Stassberg (sp?) thinking they were manufactured the same way, with the 100 yrs old strip cards potentially getting very high grades WITHOUT it being known they were handcut, after the fact, which is very silly indeed. We all know about strip cards but the shiny collectors might not. regards ![]()
__________________
Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
#8
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I have a question.
Is there—and if not, should there be—a difference as to when the card was cut from the sheet? (i.e., a vintage/period cut vs. someone using modern technology to cut the card from the sheet/strip.) Last edited by wake.up.the.echoes; 07-19-2010 at 02:37 PM. |
#9
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These things come in al shapes and sizes, most have some semblance of a top and bottom border and are very skinny side to side. I don't think they should get a numerical grade.
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#10
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Maybe it is a question of semantics, Leon. I think of "border" in this context as a line defining the breaks between cards on the sheet or strip. W565, for example, has a distinct color border around each card.
If the card has color showing all the way around, it is full. If it is missing color on one or more side or portion, it is not a full card. Here is an example from the mixed sport "E79/E95" style cards: ![]() I'd say the border on that card is the red line. If it shows red line all around it is full, if not, it isn't. W590 doesn't have anything delineating the break between the cards. You could cut it right to the margin of the next card or right to its margin and still arguably have a full card. And the top and bottom rows are frequently found with a giant border, as the illustrations show, owing to the large margins on the edges of the sheets. I do agree that it can get very confusing when the same design is used for different sets, or where the set is known both handcut and machine cut (1926 Spalding and W580 come to mind). W580 machine cut, allegedly for far east export: ![]() W580 typical: ![]() And, if we are talking a set that was intended to be cut and that has definite borders, I don't see why a numerical grade is inappropriate.
__________________
Read my blog; it will make all your dreams come true. https://adamstevenwarshaw.substack.com/ Or not... Last edited by Exhibitman; 07-20-2010 at 02:59 PM. |
#11
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Adam,
Could I get a little background on the w580 set that was distributed in Siam/Thailand? Why were they made? I know they were distributed as single cards, but what were they packaged with? Are they definitely vintage? Or could they be newer? |
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