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#1
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I am trying to figure out how much more it cost me to complete the monster (520), and I am interested in the experience of Net54. What do you think is a reasonable estimate for common back raw non-HoFers in the current market? I estimate the following:
P - $35-50 G - $50-60 VG- $75-90 if someone can show me raw common VGs for less than $75, I am all ears. but this is basically where I see the market. Does this seem consistent with reality?
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Deals Done: GrayGhost, Count76, mybuddyinc, banksfan14, boysblue, Sverteramo, rocuan, rootsearcher60, GoldenAge50s, pt7464, trdcrdkid, T206.org, bnorth, frankrizzo29, David Atkatz, Johnny630, cardsamillion, SPMIDD, esehombre, bbsports, babraham, RhodeyRhode, Nate Adams, OhioCardCollector, ejstel, Golfcollector, Luke, 53toppscollector, benge610, Lunker21, VintageCardCo, jmanners51, T206CollectorVince, wrm, hockeyhockey Collecting: T206 Monster #236 |
#2
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$50k is about what it'll take.
I've been contemplating the same thing. Give the T206 podcasts a listen, Jay talks about his spreadsheet. He's updated pricing since the podcast. I think if you spend $100 a week for ten years, that may get you to a finish line. Setting aside $100 a week (which seems a lot to me) a collector could occasionally buy a few commons. Allow some money to constantly accumulate so that you can get some of the more costly cards. If you save and save and a year or so in you buy your first card, a Green Cobb, then I think you won't finish the set. I think a fellow has to gradually make a bit of progress. But you've also gotta be setting aside money so you can tackle the costly cards: 4x Cobbs, 2x Johnsons, 3x Young, Speaker, 3x Mathewson, 3x Lajoie, the ST Louis versions of Demmitt and O'Hara. That's a ten year plan. Everyone will say card cost will increase as time goes by, and I agree. $200 a week for 5 years would be harder on wallet, but the cost of the cards 5 years from now would be less than 10 years from now. It depends also on the condition of cards that you'll accept. If you set your sights on lesser, borderline acceptable cards by your standards, then one day you may find yourself buying some cards twice. First for a raggedy one, and later on a card that looks better and costs more. Twice bought cards are financially painful. |
#3
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![]() Quote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/23435116503...8AAOSw-2Jhx0f~ .
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Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com Last edited by Leon; 12-25-2021 at 11:51 AM. |
#4
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I think 50k is on the low end. It’s more like 75k now-a days...
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#5
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![]() I agree with this assessment... some of the numbers baked into the $50k assumption are $1500 for O'Hara & Demmitt. good luck with that
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Deals Done: GrayGhost, Count76, mybuddyinc, banksfan14, boysblue, Sverteramo, rocuan, rootsearcher60, GoldenAge50s, pt7464, trdcrdkid, T206.org, bnorth, frankrizzo29, David Atkatz, Johnny630, cardsamillion, SPMIDD, esehombre, bbsports, babraham, RhodeyRhode, Nate Adams, OhioCardCollector, ejstel, Golfcollector, Luke, 53toppscollector, benge610, Lunker21, VintageCardCo, jmanners51, T206CollectorVince, wrm, hockeyhockey Collecting: T206 Monster #236 |
#6
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You are probably very close with those estimates. Unfortunately, lot purchases have all but disappeared because of the high value even low grade commons bring. I'd keep an eye out for any lots that you can bid on under your assessment and use the dupes to offset even further.
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"Chicago Cubs fans are 90% scar tissue". -GFW |
#7
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For a reality check, how much for ALL (4) Cobbs in the following conditions:
G G-VG VG How many "commons" are there"? How many total HOFer cards (excluding Wags and Plank)? There are subsets like S-Leaguers. What's the basic cost on a S-Leaguer?
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fr3d c0wl3s - always looking for OJs and other 19th century stuff. PM or email me if you have something cool you're looking to find a new home for. |
#8
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4 raw Cobb’s that would be PSA 1’s and had a decent eye appeal would cost minimum $11,000 - $12,000. Minimum.
Last edited by Bpm0014; 12-27-2021 at 06:28 PM. |
#9
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Maybe somewhere, but they certainly aren't that cheap on eBay.
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
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