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View Poll Results: Best way to separate cards? | |||
Separate boxes by price (.50, $1, $2, $3, $5), no further order |
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8 | 12.50% |
Separate boxes by price (.50, $1, $2, $3, $5), then by year within each box |
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13 | 20.31% |
All prices mixed in, sorted by year, price sticker on back |
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34 | 53.13% |
Other (please specify) |
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9 | 14.06% |
Voters: 64. You may not vote on this poll |
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#1
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Although I've done tons of shows in my life, this year I'll be doing my first National (never even attended one as mentioned in a previous post). At normal shows I sell a huge mix of stuff but I intend to sell mostly (90+%) raw vintage at the National.
I'm having some difficulty deciding how I want to organize my cards for sale. Of course higher end will go in showcases. I intend to have a box for HOF/superstars organized by player. The rest of the cards are posing a problem, though. Which do you think is the best way to organize the lower-to-mid end cards? A) Separate boxes by price (.50, $1, $2, $3, $5), with cards in those boxes in no particular order because people like to dig and bargain hunt B) Separate boxes by price (.50, $1, $2, $3, $5), with cards in those boxes sorted by year, because set builders will want to fill holes in their sets C) All prices mixed in, sorted by year, with price determined by colored sticker on the back, because set builders will want to fill holes in their sets D) Other (please specify in comments) Thanks in advance for all your comments/suggestions/feedback! |
#2
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Lately I seem to prefer shopping via wifi
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You got any of them n series non sport and boxing in there? |
#3
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I prefer to shop for cards in attics, abandoned houses, antique shops, and flea markets.
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. "A life is not important except in the impact it has on others lives" - Jackie Robinson “If you have a chance to make life better for others and fail to do so, you are wasting your time on this earth.”- Roberto Clemente |
#4
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The answer to your question is probably what do you anticipate more of - set collectors or people browsing? I can't answer that but usually if I would bargain hunt in $1-$5 boxes, I'd purely be looking for good value.
I haven't done that in years but I think you run a better chance of finding people doing what I used to do rather than finding set collectors and actually having what they need.
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T205 (208/208) T206 (520/520) T207 (200/200) E90-1 (120/121) E91A/B/C (99/99) 1895 Mayo (16/48) N28/N29 Allen & Ginter (100/100) N162 Goodwin Champions (30/50) N184 Kimball Champions (37/50) Complete: E47, E49, E50, E75, E76, E229, N88, N91, R136, T29, T30, T38, T51, T53, T68, T73, T77, T118, T218, T220, T225 www.prewarcollector.com |
#5
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#6
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In other words ...
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Collection: https://www.flickr.com/photos/132359235@N05/sets/ For Sale: https://www.flickr.com/photos/132359...7719430982559/ Ebay listings: https://www.ebay.com/sch/harrydoyle/...p2047675.l2562 |
#7
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Similarly, if it's 50s-70s Topps (for example), there will be a lot of seller competition there so you'll need to provide additional incentive to buyers (better organization, better prices, or something). If it's older or odd-ball stuff, then you'll need to draw attention to that somehow. |
#8
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T205 (208/208) T206 (520/520) T207 (200/200) E90-1 (120/121) E91A/B/C (99/99) 1895 Mayo (16/48) N28/N29 Allen & Ginter (100/100) N162 Goodwin Champions (30/50) N184 Kimball Champions (37/50) Complete: E47, E49, E50, E75, E76, E229, N88, N91, R136, T29, T30, T38, T51, T53, T68, T73, T77, T118, T218, T220, T225 www.prewarcollector.com |
#9
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Most of the stuff is 50s-70s and that's what I've figured - there will be so much competition that my selling point isn't that I have cards, it's that I have cheap cards. Most of my stuff is low-mid grade and I price it to move, so I think I'll have a lot of bargain hunters as opposed to set collectors. Because of this, my initial thinking was to have boxes separated by price in order to allow someone to say something like "hey, let's see what I can get for a buck a card", but seems like the overwhelming response here has been that the preference for bargain hunting would be to have all prices mixed in with price stickers on the back. |
#10
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Or like you suggested, $5 bin, $2 bin, etc. Going that route, you might want to 'color code' your cards/holders as well with those colored dots. Makes it easier on your eyes and brain by Saturday. ![]() The only thing I would recommend is keep the sports separate. That is probably one thing that might annoy many collectors who enjoy the hunt for bargains. |
#11
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I do like the idea of some categorization of some kind which is why I thought about having boxes based on price, but not sorted by year. I hadn't thought about separating by decade... |
#12
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I used to run some fast food joints and the sales sucked most of the times. I will never forget what a wise person once told me. He said all you have to do is lower the price and someone will buy it.
![]() And as I was speaking with a friend this morning, concerning buying and selling, he said the same thing, you just have to find your niche. I say you should do what you enjoy doing because then you will do it better. Quote:
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Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com Last edited by Leon; 05-26-2016 at 11:07 AM. |
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