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Go Back   Net54baseball.com Forums > Net54baseball Main Forum - WWII & Older Baseball Cards > Net54baseball Vintage (WWII & Older) Baseball Cards & New Member Introductions

View Poll Results: Wich grade do you buy for build your pre war set
Poor beater raw cards 12 12.37%
Low grade graded cards (1-2) 26 26.80%
Mid grade graded cards (3-4-5) 51 52.58%
High grade graded cards (6 to 10) 8 8.25%
Voters: 97. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old 01-08-2014, 06:25 AM
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g_vezina_c55 g_vezina_c55 is offline
nels0n aud.et
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
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Default Little poll for you pre war set builder

In wich grade do you build your pre war set
Low grade raw
Low grade graded card (1-2)
Mid grade (3-4-5)
High grade (6 to10)
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  #2  
Old 01-08-2014, 06:30 AM
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rainier2004 rainier2004 is offline
Steven
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I tend to set a budget and then try to get the nicest card I can for the cash. Most of my pre-war tends to gd-vg. My Cjs range from pr to exmt with only a couple in the former category as I try to upgrade.
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  #3  
Old 01-08-2014, 06:38 AM
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g_vezina_c55 g_vezina_c55 is offline
nels0n aud.et
 
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For my part on my 33 Goudey, i buy only SGC 30-40 cards.
2 exception i have one Auth goose goslin with little trimmed job and i regret my buy i will upgrade in futur.
Tge second exception is a common graded 5 ...i paid ridiculous low price it is the reason why i bought it.

But normaly i only seek for graded 3 -4 cards
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  #4  
Old 01-08-2014, 06:42 AM
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Steve Woe.lfel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rainier2004 View Post
I tend to set a budget and then try to get the nicest card I can for the cash. Most of my pre-war tends to gd-vg. My Cjs range from pr to exmt with only a couple in the former category as I try to upgrade.
+1. For my T206 set, I try to shoot for nice looking SGC 20-40 examples. I'd rather have a spot of paper loss on the back and a really nice looking front than an example with multiple creases. It also depends on the card. For my favorite commons, I'll go up to SGC 60 if I can get a reasonable price. For the Cobbs and rare backs, I'll drop down in grade if I can get a nice looking front on the Cobb or a clean back on the rare backs, with some defects to the opposite side on each.
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T206 HOFers: 22/76
T206 SLers: 11/48
T206 Back Run: 28/39

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  #5  
Old 01-08-2014, 07:08 AM
Prince Hal Prince Hal is offline
Duncan
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As is often said on this board, I buy the card not the grade. I have some really nice 10's and 20's that have a pencil mark or very small amount of paper loss on the back. Also with a lot of pre-war, you gotta strike when the opportunity knocks. Just picked up two W575-2s that I have not seen before. They were 10's but still presented well. I rarely find or would pay the price for the high grade cards.
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  #6  
Old 01-08-2014, 07:48 AM
markf31 markf31 is offline
Mark Fox
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I cast my vote for mid-grade, under the idea that if I ever get into collecting a more populous set that is the range I would target.

But the couple sets I'm collecting now, T209-IIs for example, I don't have the luxury of being picky about the grade. They're hard enough to find as it is and it's impossible to be condition sensitive with the set.
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  #7  
Old 01-08-2014, 08:03 AM
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Brian J0hns0n
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My original intent was mid-grade (average VG). However, I've come to the realization that in order to find the cards I need to complete the set within my budget I will need to accept lower grade. Recently I've been buying more F/G cards with nice appearance; which I'm quite happy with.
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  #8  
Old 01-08-2014, 09:03 AM
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Daryl
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Some sets you don't have a choice. Another option for your poll should be "Whatever I can find."
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  #9  
Old 01-08-2014, 09:10 AM
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PeterB
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I prefer raw cards and buy what I can afford. Condition is nice, but having "the" card in any condition better.
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  #10  
Old 01-08-2014, 09:16 AM
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Jason Wells
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I agree with Marks take.Some sets it impossible to find cards in mid or high grade and if you do the prices are high.For my T210 set I try to go VG/EX.Even then some cards you just pick up when you see them regardless of condition.The last sentence describes collecting T209 to a T.And with N172 I only look for nice images grade isn't a factor.

Last edited by Piratedogcardshows; 01-08-2014 at 09:17 AM.
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  #11  
Old 01-08-2014, 09:16 AM
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_Er!ck*L.ew1n_
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4815162342 View Post
Some sets you don't have a choice. Another option for your poll should be "Whatever I can find."
Exactly, when it comes to D381's I'll be glad to take any beater card, or piece of a card for any of the ones I need.....

When I do have a choice in other cards, like with my Cracker Jack set attempt, I go for whatever fits into my budget. A presentable PSA 1 Joe Jackson fit that description. I have raw commons from poor to VG+ and graded commons from auth/poor- grade 6....

I feel people should just collect cards they like and present well within their budgets and not be too strict on themselves, especially if they're not putting a set together to re-sell.
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  #12  
Old 01-08-2014, 09:20 AM
steve B steve B is offline
Steve Birmingham
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I tend towards "all of the above".

But I have to like the card for some reason. Either a good looking card, one with some production oddity, or at a really good price. Lately with T206s I've tended towards raw cards that look like really nice 50s Some do better, some a bit worse.

My Goudeys are a really varied group, many are truly awful, but most of the 41s are solid mid grade.

Some other sets it's simply whatever I find and can afford.

Steve B
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  #13  
Old 01-08-2014, 05:05 PM
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Clayton
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I like the VG to V/G-EX condition overall(3/4/5 is what I picked) , but will pick up lower graded cards (or raw) if they are presentable. I don't really like paper loss, trimmed cards, heavy creasing (surface wrinkles are fine if not too noticeable). I don't mind OC cards, or rounded/lightly worn corners either.I like them to look their age, but not trashed . Here is an example of a couple of decent looking low grade cards to me:

Sincerely, Clayton
Attached Images
File Type: jpg T206 247.jpg (48.9 KB, 91 views)
File Type: jpg T206 248.jpg (53.0 KB, 90 views)
File Type: jpg T206 243.jpg (50.5 KB, 90 views)
File Type: jpg T206 244.jpg (54.3 KB, 90 views)
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  #14  
Old 01-08-2014, 05:09 PM
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Clayton
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Oops. Meant to post this one in the above post

Sincerely, Clayton
Attached Images
File Type: jpg T206 231.jpg (49.3 KB, 89 views)
File Type: jpg T206 232.jpg (55.3 KB, 89 views)
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  #15  
Old 01-08-2014, 07:18 PM
thehoodedcoder thehoodedcoder is offline
Kevin Qui.nn
 
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most of what i get is right between them. 5 or 6 mainly but always the highest grade i can find, when pricing isn't so expensive that i can't afford it.

meaning, i will take 5s and higher and will take the first one that matches that criteria. if say a 5 and 7 come up at the same time, i will take the 7 unless the 7 is way over priced.

kevin
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  #16  
Old 01-08-2014, 07:39 PM
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drmondobueno drmondobueno is offline
Keith
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Default Depends on the set...

For my White Borders set, I began in lower grade, settled on mid (3 to 5) for HOFers, poor to VGEX for commons, with a focus on registration, and up to VG for SLers. My focus was more on a shorter time period. Patience was something required in my work for years; now that I am pretty much retired, to hell with patience. I am upgrading at this time and looking for cards ranging 3 to 5, SGC graded. I am also spending a little more focus on backs this time around.

For my T201 set, I am focusing on SGC 80 and up. It is proving tougher to find higher graded cards but that is the fun of the hunt.

Kinda contradictory, no?
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T206 156/518 second time around
R312 49/50
1959 Topps 568/572
1958, 1961, 1963, 1964, 1957, 1956…
...whatever I want
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