Card(s) in a condition you would not collect

[parkplace33]

I saw a post online recently where a collector was looking for a certain card. His only condition requirement was that it not have “someone’s name written on the front of the card.” That was the only requirement.

Got me thinking, what are some condition requirements (if any) for your collection? Condition examples I can think of are:

Altered (trimmed, recolored, etc)
Pinhole
Tape
Writing on front/back
Staining
Smell of the card
Mildew/mold/water damage
Skinned back/no back/reback
Non legible front/back of the card (number)
Miscut, OC, PD

[slightlyrounded]

I can’t abide OC no matter how many times I’ve tried.

Apparently they call this diagnosis ‘OCD’, which I assume stands for off-centered disgust.

[bobbyw8469]

I have no qualms. I just want them to be real. I love them all.

[Bill77]

I have an Obak that fits half of the list. I ended up sending it to SGC for my protection as the mold/mildew smell almost sent me to the hospital. It is also trimmed and missing more than half of the back. Everything else on the list I have multiple cards to cover those issues as well.

[jchcollins]

I'm mostly a postwar guy, and I'd say the majority of my PC HOF singles are "midgrade" which is kind of broad for me - most being from the 3 range to the 6 range. Centered cards are great, but I'm not a centering freak. 70/30 one way is usually not going to bother me. This is how the cards were made - and no disrespect to the centering folks, but TPG's have basically sold us a bill of goods on what card centering was or was not "supposed to be" back in the day. There is a ton of cognitive bias present in professional grading 30 years into it. I digress...

I don't mind writing / issues on card backs if it can save me a ton of money. For example I have a '58 Mantle / Aaron that looks EX or better on the front, but was graded a PSA 2 due to some light album residue on the back. It looks a ton better than the example of this card I had as a kid that was riddled with print snow on the front, and might have graded a 3 or 4.

[Mark]

If it's a 1960's card, I like it in EX or better, with no defects, but with older cards, it is different. Even since I started collecting E220's I have no major concern for the way that an older card has been cut.

[SteveS]

When it comes to older cards, I actually prefer the beat-up ones. I want my old cards to look their age. Even if they're graded, there's something just not right about a perfectly pristine T206 or '52 Topps (or whatever). That said, the turn-off for me is if it's been altered or damaged in some way where too much is missing. Beat up or not, I still want the whole card.

[jcmtiger]

I like clear sharp images on my Old Judge cards, backs don’t care except don’t like skinned backs. Thanks

[bnorth]

I am a condition snob. No matter the year or player my cards need to have 4 razor sharp corners. Also if it is not perfectly centered top to bottom and side to side I pass. But the real big thing is registration. If even the slightest bit off just looking at the card will give me a head ache.

This Pristine Gem Mint Hank Aaron is a perfect example of the cards I collect.

[molenick]

I have to be honest, I think of myself as a "true collector" but I have been obsessed by condition before there were even grading services. So, unless we are talking about extreme rarities, I would not want any cards with these features, with the exception of "writing on back" which I don't care about for cabinets, cdvs, postcards and other photographic items I collect because I like the image on the front.

I am sure I do own some altered cards in graded holders and I hate the idea of that. I do my best to avoid them (I check certification numbers on sites that "out" altered cards) but I realize collecting graded cards has that possibility. I am not saying all my cards are super-high grades, I have plenty of mid-grade type cards that I bought because I thought they presented nicely and were a good deal. But I try to avoid all the issues you mentioned for cards in my collection (with the above mentioned exception).

[mrreality68]

Originally Posted by parkplace33

I saw a post online recently where a collector was looking for a certain card. His only condition requirement was that it not have “someone’s name written on the front of the card.” That was the only requirement.

Got me thinking, what are some condition requirements (if any) for your collection? Condition examples I can think of are:

Altered (trimmed, recolored, etc)
Pinhole
Tape
Writing on front/back
Staining
Smell of the card
Mildew/mold/water damage
Skinned back/no back/reback
Non legible front/back of the card (number)
Miscut, OC, PD

That is a little bit of a tricky question in the sense is if it is a very rare card, or a card you really want/need to complete a set then you may need to give in a bit on the condition requirements.

But Generally speaking I do not want any of the above issues.
But Eye Appeal is important to many and also the resale/flipping/trade value of a card.
But I will always avoid cards that writing on the front, tape on it (the front).
Staining is almost automatic with some card ie the Cracker Jacks Series of cards. (but if it is water damage/staining) I avoid it.
Pin holes is not an issue for me unless it is on the main part of the card and takes away from the look of the player on it.
Paper Lose on the front is more of a concern because it takes away from the overall eye appeal. Depending on how much paper and where the paper lose is.

Long Answer but to me I look at it and if I like it and can afford it I buy it. IF I look at it and do not like the look I pass.

[todeen]

The CJ Speaker was the first card I bought with writing on the front. At least they didn't try to erase Boston. The Cobb has a pinhole, which for some reason did not bother me at all. I like the whole card to be present. I dislike noticeable paper loss, but I will tolerate a little; I bought a 21 Exhibit Cobb with paper loss. I have contemplated buying graded altered, but haven't yet. Dog ears are fine; like someone said previously it's okay for old cards to have characteristics of old cards. However, I cannot deal with a crease through the face. That's a deal breaker. The Gehrig is the infamous Kevin Mize card that got him kicked off the forum. I haven't sold it, but it has slightly changed my thoughts about card conditions I'm willing to purchase. A year ago someone asked my opinion about why it came back Altered. My gut tells me the top edge is trimmed.


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[ValKehl]

For the master Sam Rice card collection I am working on, I'll gladly accept any card I don't have in any condition, no matter how flawed. For rare/scarce cards for my other collecting focuses, I abhor paper loss that affects the player's image or the advertising on the back. So, I'm thrilled to have this scarce SP T222 of WaJo with a sizeable corner piece missing, because this flaw affects neither WaJo's image nor the ad on the back.

For those of you who are okay with writing on the front of a somewhat scarce card, my 1954 Bowman of Teddy Ball Game is in the current Sterling auction. Leon, I apologize for this bit of shameless promotion. https://www.sterlingsportsauctions.c...-LOT65020.aspx

[mrreality68]

Originally Posted by ValKehl

For the master Sam Rice card collection I am working on, I'll gladly accept any card I don't have in any condition, no matter how flawed. For rare/scarce cards for my other collecting focuses, I abhor paper loss that affects the player's image or the advertising on the back. So, I'm thrilled to have this scarce SP T222 of WaJo with a sizeable corner piece missing, because this flaw affects neither WaJo's image nor the ad on the back.

For those of you who are okay with writing on the front of a somewhat scarce card, my 1954 Bowman of Teddy Ball Game is in the current Sterling auction. Leon, I apologize for this bit of shameless promotion. https://www.sterlingsportsauctions.c...-LOT65020.aspx

Great Johnson Card
I agree the paper loss does not take away from the card because it is away from the player

[darwinbulldog]

There are some cards I'm looking for that I'd be happy to pick up even if they had every one of the listed flaws. For cards that are easy to find I'll pass if I detect any "alterations", significant paper loss, missing pieces, or (usually) writing. All of that is with the caveat that I pass because other people value them more than I do, not because I value them at $0. If someone wanted to sell me a legitimate T206 Cobb or '33 Goudey Ruth for $100 I'd be pretty flexible with my usual rules.

[CobbSpikedMe]

This should give a good idea of my condition requirements. One of my favorite cards in my collection and it was given to me by a fellow OBCer.

And a prewar beater that I love since it once belonged to Lionel Carter.



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[SD]

Only the finest for me. 20210911_181308.jpg20210911_181425.jpg

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[brianp-beme]

Originally Posted by SD

Only the finest for me. Attachment 478361Attachment 478362

Great examples of still worthy cards. I previously posted my Diamond Stars Hornsby with a completely obliterated front that I kept for the purposes of humor, but I do have a defect that I try to avoid...any damage more than minor to the player's face, be it a crease, scuffing, markings, etc.

Thus I present to you this T213-2 of Schulte. I don't mind that it is skinned to paper thinness, but the fact that it has substantial damage to the face makes it a no-go for me.

In fact, anyone who doesn't mind a little facial scarring on their cards can have it at the cost of $3.50 shipping (I like to send cards out, even massively damaged ones like this one, in padded envelopes...it makes them feel special). First PM will get it.

Brian

[Bocabirdman]

Here are "almost" three of my favorites...

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