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#1
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I was looking to purchase a PSA 6 of a older era card. I also found a PSA 8oc of the same card in the same price range as the PSA 6's. It fits the bill of an 8 nicely, and is only off center top to bottom, but not so much that you can't see a clear straight border across the bottom.
So which would you choose. They are in the same price range and the PSA 6 is not spot on centered itself. I have seen cards that are more off center than the PSA 8 oc, that are not graded oc. Thanks for your thoughts. |
#2
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If the o/c isn't too bad, like you said, I would definitely jump on that one. Of course, if you're planning on selling the card at some point, the rule of thumb is an 8 o/c 'equals' a straight 6. So keep that in mind, too.
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#3
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I’m a stickler when it comes to centering, so I wouldn’t buy either at the moment and wait for a much better PSA 6 to come along.
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#4
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What is the top to bottom centering on the 8 o/c? 75/25? 90/10? 99/1? A decent 8 o/c will often grade a 6, but if it's really bad it might come back lower. Once in a great while I only lose a single grade when regrading to get rid of a qualifier. Obviously that's ideal and you'd be way ahead if that was the case but it's the exception not the rule.
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#5
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OCD about centering. Will never purchase an o/c card. That's one of the reasons my 1967 set has taken so long, I'll leave a hole in my set rather than having an o/c card.
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#6
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It's really hard to find top tier OC cards these days......Kevin bought them all.
Hi Kevin ![]() |
#7
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Why does everyone ask us questions they should ask themselves? This is only your opinion that matters. Buy whichever one you like best.
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-- PWCC: The Fish Stinks From the Head PSA: Regularly Get Cheated BGS: Can't detect trimming on modern SGC: Closed auto authentication business JSA: Approved same T206 Autos before SGC Oh, what a difference a year makes. |
#8
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![]() Quote:
exactly! |
#9
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Off-center cards don't bother me personally so if it was just for my own collection, I'd probably take the 8(OC). But if you want the card easiest to sell with the biggest return down the road, I'd probably say the 6. OC is like the plague for many buyers.
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T205 (208/208) T206 (520/520) T207 (200/200) E90-1 (120/121) E91A/B/C (99/99) 1895 Mayo (16/48) N28/N29 Allen & Ginter (100/100) N162 Goodwin Champions (30/50) N184 Kimball Champions (37/50) Complete: E47, E49, E50, E75, E76, E229, N88, N91, R136, T29, T30, T38, T51, T53, T68, T73, T77, T118, T218, T220, T225 www.prewarcollector.com |
#10
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If it's the 1933 Goudey Gehrig PSA 8 OC you are talking about, I think you can't go wrong.
IMO that card should not be in an OC holder. Goudeys have major problems with centering and that's not bad. |
#11
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If it’s an older (pre-war) card, I’m likely going with the 8OC, since it’s so hard to find cards from that era with NM-MT corners. But for something 1940s-50s and newer, give me the 6, as a card with NM-MT corners are much easier from the postwar era.
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#12
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I’ve been watching that one as well. It’s a gorgeous card. I never buy cards with qualifiers, but I’d buy that one in a heartbeat if I didn’t already own that card.
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#13
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PSA 6 no question.
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#14
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Buy the PSA 8(OC) and submit for review down to PSA 7.
__________________
-- PWCC: The Fish Stinks From the Head PSA: Regularly Get Cheated BGS: Can't detect trimming on modern SGC: Closed auto authentication business JSA: Approved same T206 Autos before SGC Oh, what a difference a year makes. |
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