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#1
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So...I wanna know everything about picking out a safe. I understand the heat rating, they also look like they have a waterproof rating now. I get that most of the damage is done with water putting out the fire and those things need to be kept off the ground. I want to bolt this bad boy and I also want some extra space for documents and whatever else I get into. I currently have a whopping 88 cards in the collection but that could always grow.
So I am looking at this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stack-On...MB-E/202996367 Why are smaller ones $2k+? Shelves are great and all but I don't understand the price disparity. Its 418 lbs so it would be tough to carry out of my house and all but I just don't get it. Also, does anyone know how much of a break I will get in my card insurance on this? Any help/assistance is always appreciated. |
#2
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Great topic Steven. I too am in need of a great safe and know nothing. Would love to hear what the board has to say on the matter, including links to safes people own and recommend.
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#3
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I have a 1200 lb jewelers safe, bought it used but new condition, and when I had a more expensive collection I always used a bank safe deposit box. Best money I ever spent (and it wasn't much) for the peace of mind. I think I paid around 1100 dollars and I don't think they have gone up too much (when you can find a good used one they are cheap, many times). I got mine at a safe store that had new and used ones.
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Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com Last edited by Leon; 12-31-2017 at 07:51 PM. |
#4
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Can I ask what thought/preferences you put into the purchase? A heavy ass safe sounds like great peace of mind and Id agree that is priceless. |
#5
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https://www.a-1locksmith.com/plano/ is where I got it. I wasn't here when it was delivered but understand it had to have a tow truck to bring it in. It is rated TL30, which I think means that it's going to take someone at least 30 minutes to get into it under their best circumstance with normal tools. It also has another small safe built in the inside too. It is fire rated Class 350 2 hours, and is probably 2-4 inches of solid steel all the way around it. That all said when my collection got too valuable to leave at home (safes don't protect from people with guns, God forbid) I got the Bank box. I had the Safe Deposit box for at least 10-15 yrs along with the safe at home. The bank safe deposit box, a very large one, was around 125 per yr. I strongly recommend one if you have a valuable collection. Good luck.
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Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
#6
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I put minimal thought into it and bought a Sentry safe from Amazon. Brand has a solid reputation. Heavy as hell and some dude carried it into my house. Works fine.
Flood and fire rating? If my house burns to the ground my collection will be the least of my worries. And is insured. Flood a little more important as I did have a terrible flood on the other side of my home. Last edited by Snapolit1; 01-01-2018 at 08:52 AM. |
#7
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There are numerous types of safes from jewelers to gun safes. The biggest problem with them for us as collectors is water. Be careful when you bolt it down that is likely where the water will come from. You will hear myths about self-sealing doors during a fire. What if there is no fire and your sump pump backs up?
Liberty makes one called a fatboy that is about $1000 on sale delivered. They usually run $1500. It is big enough that your average fella will not be moving and big enough to hold all of your valuables from guns, cards as well as rings and bullion. Water will get in if not the inside will be steam anyway. Below is a link to talk about water proof safes. https://blog.safeandvaultstore.com/a...es-waterproof/ |
#8
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Mine is a Johnson Safe. Johnsonsafes.net. The BR series are really nice. I'm going to approach them about making one with only shelves and not the long gun half as I need another one now. I'd like a pull out lateral file drawer for my hanging binders.
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#9
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There's two aspects to the fire rating - temperature and duration. The fire rating on that Stackon sucks.
Other things that make a difference in the price are the materials of construction, locking bolts, locking mechanism and hinges. My guess is that it's not constructed that well. My safe is about the same dimensions, but weighs a lot more. It doesn't appear to have many locking bolts. The locking mechanism is electronic. Personally, I don't like electronic. I really can't give an opinion on the hinges without seeing it in person. As someone else mentioned, go with the Liberty. |
#10
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For guns, a lower level safe may be fine as even in a fire the gun will still be operable after fire and water. And gun parts are easily replaced But for documents, like cards, you need a better safe. Liberty makes safes that are intended for documents. There are other companies too. |
#11
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I bought my safe at Tractor Supply. They have sales on them a few times a year. Buy a Gun safe, it's bigger and you never know what you might want to put in it. Good safes also.
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#12
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Lots of votes for liberty safes...I need to find a place for one as well.
Where in the house is the safest place against water and heat damage in a house? |
#13
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Lots of great advise. I have one and it works for me. My father always told me to keep your mouth shut and never advertise what you have to strangers..
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#14
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Best advice in this thread.
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#15
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My research into this consists of one person, though, the dude who is selling me the safe.
__________________
Successful transactions on Net54 with balltrash, greenmonster66; Peter_Spaeth; robw1959; Stetson_1883; boxcar18; Blackie |
#16
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I'll just chip in again with my own discussions I had with a local security company this past year. As my prior comment read, if your primary goal is to reduce the chances of a successful burglary, then it's all about Steel thickness (gauge).
And it's the Steel gauge in 2 areas -- the Steel Plate in Door, and then also the Body of the Safe. (The Door Plate protects from bending attacks with crowbar/prybar, and the Body of the safe protects from cutting (blade and torch) attacks.) It's probably most important to figure out what your own needs are. If it's just to discourage folks with sticky fingers then super basic is fine. If you've got a collection where the world won't end if it disappears, then a safe around $1,000 with the most steel you can buy might be ok. If someone has a collection in the 6-figures though, boy I'd be investing in a serious safe if you're intending to keep it at home, meaning 10-gauge (lower number is better) thickness or better for the safe body and a 1/4" plate steel door plate. That's my only beef against Liberty, is that they are a little light on steel except for their one very top end model (The Presidential) which is a beast. Otherwise their safes top out at 12 or 11-gauge steel. I would throw another company out there for folks to consider -- Fort Knox. www.ftknox.com Top reputation in the industry, solid value, and at a slightly higher price point (2.5 - 4K for a sizeable safe), but they do not skimp on the materials. Highly customizable as well. All points made by other folks are awesome as well, including layering your security and keeping your trap shut ![]()
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| Private collector, always looking to buy great cards from the good folks on Net54. | WTB: N162 Kelly & Anson (any PSA) | '15 Cracker Jack WaJo (PSA 2-4) | '32 U.S. Caramel Gehrig (PSA 3-5) | '33 Goudey Ruth #'s 53/144/149 (PSA 4-5). T-206 Monster: 520/520 (PSA 4-6) Last edited by ZiggerZagger; 01-01-2018 at 09:09 PM. |
#17
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Liberty safe. Period
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#18
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Last edited by Snapolit1; 01-01-2018 at 04:50 PM. |
#19
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Typical flood coverage can cover other below ground items if claimed that sump pump failed or electric went out during a storm...
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#20
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__________________
Successful transactions on Net54 with balltrash, greenmonster66; Peter_Spaeth; robw1959; Stetson_1883; boxcar18; Blackie |
#21
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For Christmas I bought myself an 8 gun Stack On gun cabinet from eBay. They were correct in calling it a cabinet as I compare it to a file cabinet. It's nothing like a safe. For keeping my guns away from young kids it suits my needs.
As for my cards, all of my "good" ones are in a large safe deposit box at Wells Fargo, $120 a year.
__________________
Successful transactions with: Double-P-Enterprises, Thromdog, DavidBvintage, Desert Ice Sports, Kurtz Kardz, Cooperstown Sportscards, BBT206 and tenorvox! |
#22
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I used to work for the leading supplier (and manufacturer) of safes and vault rooms for the jewelry industry, Empire Safe Company. Empire was founded in 1904 and is still family owned today.
It is imperative that anyone looking to protect their collection speak with Richard the CEO of Empire Safe Co. He is the hands-down security expert in the country when it comes to safes and vaults. 800-543-5412 http://empiresafe.com/ He will educate you if you want to be educated, he will sell you a quality safe if you just want to be sold... You can purchase from a retail store (like home depot) but be very careful with safes and vaults... you get what you pay for and you want to work with an expert. PS: Be prepared to spend some money. A real safe costs real dollars, most people do not think of this insurance properly... think of it as a percentage... what percent of the collection value will you spend to protect it? |
#23
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I have a Liberty safe. Love it.
An important thing to consider also is to buy a safe you can grow into. Whether its cards, coins, guns, etc., you do not want to buy something that fits your collection "just right." Like most, my "just right" has changed multiple times over my life! Buy the biggest and best you can afford! |
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