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#1
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With my very short T206 history it seems obvious to me that marked cards get the shaft. Cards of much lesser grade are valued over anything with a qualifier even if it's just a hint of a mark or a back stamp.
That said, how does SGC grade a marked card? Would it behoove one to buy the marked PSA card crack it open and then submit it to SGC? I would personally rather look at a bright clean front that may have a mark on the back than a less attractive creased colorless card, but in many instances the value is about equal due to that stigma of having a qualifier. Last edited by Mountaineer1999; 08-10-2014 at 11:04 AM. |
#2
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SGC gives the card an overall lower grade. The card can look great on the front but have a mark/stamp on the back and get 1.5 grade.
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#3
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I admit I am in the minority in this, but I like Qualifier cards... especially pre war. It lets me know what the card would have graded if it wasn't for ONE particular flaw. Sure they don't command the premium, but with SGC I don't know if that is the only reason it got marked down or are there more flaws that I am not seeing. Basically it is saying "If you can look past this one flaw this is what the card would be equivalent to."
I particularly don't mind factory flaws. A mark is one that I can go either way with depending on where it is and what it denotes. I know this isn't a mark, but I believe this card should be at least a 8 (mc). Since it is in an SGC holder, though, it gets the same attention as a 2. ![]() ![]()
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#4
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#5
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The disconnect comes from what the collector values. I would take factory errors over post factory errors when given a choice. Other collectors (a lot actually) care about centering and a card can be flawed in other ways but pay a premium if it is centered, especially if it is an issue difficult to find well centered.
Others will not pay for writing on a card, but if it is a stamp or other "period" markings they may actually bring a premium to some collectors. You really have to look past the grade and look at the cards to see where the prices are coming from.
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#6
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Ugh! If there isn't qualifiers for all flaws (pin holes, creases, round corners), then qualifiers miss the mark.
A better solution would be what Beckett started, but dropped. A breakdown of some sort.
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Tiger collector Need: E121 Veach arms folded Monster Number 520/520 |
#7
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I do agree that Beckett's system was nice, no argument here. I always thought a factory grade (cutting, centering, print marks, registration) and post factory grade (creases, pin holes, corners, paper loss) on a card would be nice. I am stating that given the choices I don't mind the qualifiers, and prefer them at times (especially any and all miscuts).
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Last edited by Rollingstone206; 10-11-2014 at 05:16 PM. |
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I don't hate qualifiers, but I do have a beef with them since not everyone knows what they equal in terms of "real grade". I couldn't tell you how many times I have seen a card(s) for sale in a PSA 8(MC) holder that is being listed as the same selling price as a PSA 8 without the qualifier. Sometimes it seems like qualifiers are a loophole for sellers to dupe buyers that are uninformed on the subject. I realize that anyone in this hobby should get informed on anything that they are looking to buy or sell, but I'm just being realistic on the matter.
As far as a PSA 9(MC) equals a PSA 7 without the qualifier...well, that just isn't correct. I know some people believe the rule is 2-3 grades lower on an adjusted qualifier to no qualifier, but any card with an (MK, mark) qualifier, the adjusted real grade would be much much lower than a few grades if it were a NM or Mint grade.
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T206's Graded low-mid 219/520 T201's SGC/PSA 2-5 50/50 T202's SGC/PSA 2-5 10/132 1938 Goudey Graded VG range 37/48 |
#10
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Do vintage topps cards in PSA slabs with a qualifier sell decently or are they frowned upon by collectors?
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