T206 Set - Raw vs Graded

[nikobaseball]

Hey everyone,

I'm sure this is a topic that's been discussed in depth here before, but I'm new into vintage and have been doing a lot of research into the t206 set recently. A certain member here was kind enough to send me a t206 beater (my first one) and it was really incredible to see and hold.

I've always been a collector and I really like the idea of a challenge. I considered attempting one of the 1950's topps sets but barring 52, I really feel it would be too easy. I think t206 is attainable (minus big 4, tho I think I can reasonably get to 521 or 522) but would take a long enough time to feel rewarding. That said, I'm really struggling on deciding how to go about it. I don't want to start one way and then decide I like raw or a higher grade better. I also hate the idea of having some cards in a binder raw, and some cards graded separately. I'd rather just know everything is uniform (i.e. all PSA) but that would of course cost more. As someone fairly new to vintage, I feel like going raw would be significantly riskier given the amount of fakes and altered cards out there.

Any advice for someone attempting the set? I know the costs involved, and I expect to spend a min. of 20K over the years (and that would be for just 520 in the lowest grade possible). One alternative would be to commit to a really long term project of geting fairly high grade copies (PSA 5+). Obviously this is a large financial burden but more importantly to me, I would worry about quitting due to the size and difficulty of it.

Also, given that I like having a 'complete' collection, I'd want at least one of each back, and all the other non-error variations that may exist. I can settle for no Wager or Doyle, though.

Thanks for the help.

Zach

[Sean]

Wow, good luck. I don't think you should worry about uniformity. Get raw cards to start with, but don't pass up graded cards, especially for important cards( Cobb, Matty, etc.).
And don't be afraid to change your approach later. You can break out graded cards if you decide to do so. There are so many options that it isn't possible to make a decision now and not change your mind in some manner as your collection takes shape.
I can't tell you how many times in the last 12 years that I've changed. But my only real regrets are the cards that I didn't buy and now wish that I had.
I hope that helps.

[nikobaseball]

Thank you all for the thoughts. I think you're definitely right in that I shouldn't pigeonhole myself into just one grade, as that will force me to pass up on nice opportunities. Maybe one option is to just go for nice low-mid grade PSA copies (say 2-5 depending on the price, player, card etc.) and just go for copies that have a nice visual appeal to me.

Raw is appealing just because I can get a nice starter lot of 100+ pretty easily, and I feel that's much harder to do with PSA. I just hate the idea of having some raw in binders, and some graded sitting somewhere in a box. I'd like to be able to at least store them all together, if not display them together. I kind of like the option of buying raw + subbing them myself, but I have a feeling thats more costly long run and may not be worth it.

As far as PSA vs SGC, I've only had PSA cards before and don't really like the look of SGC from what I can tell, though I've never held one myself. I do know that I wouldn't want a set that's a mix of both, so I'd probably rather just go all PSA if I'm doing all graded. Seems like the set registry group is a bit stronger there too.

Keep the feedback coming, thanks everyone.

[steve B]

Originally Posted by nikobaseball

Thank you all for the thoughts. I think you're definitely right in that I shouldn't pigeonhole myself into just one grade, as that will force me to pass up on nice opportunities. Maybe one option is to just go for nice low-mid grade PSA copies (say 2-5 depending on the price, player, card etc.) and just go for copies that have a nice visual appeal to me.

Raw is appealing just because I can get a nice starter lot of 100+ pretty easily, and I feel that's much harder to do with PSA. I just hate the idea of having some raw in binders, and some graded sitting somewhere in a box. I'd like to be able to at least store them all together, if not display them together. I kind of like the option of buying raw + subbing them myself, but I have a feeling thats more costly long run and may not be worth it.

As far as PSA vs SGC, I've only had PSA cards before and don't really like the look of SGC from what I can tell, though I've never held one myself. I do know that I wouldn't want a set that's a mix of both, so I'd probably rather just go all PSA if I'm doing all graded. Seems like the set registry group is a bit stronger there too.

Keep the feedback coming, thanks everyone.

Once you get a feel for the cards and if you have a good eye for details, sending a few in for grading can be less costly.
I've had a few bought within the last four years come back between 60 and 82, with a couple being the highest for that front/back combination. I didn't pay much above 40 or 50 for any of them.
My most recent card was listed as trimmed but really didn't look like it. Took a chance at a touch above the trimmed price and got a nice factory cut card that's probably just under the min size for TPG vertically but is wide enough. Nice looking card, just not one that will get a grade.

There are a lot of display options even for a mixed graded/ungraded set.

Enjoy the trip whether it's a long or short one

Here's a couple teasers for inspiration.

Steve B

[steve B]

One of each back will put it beyond 20K, well beyond if you count the different series. Drum and BL 460 are really tough.

I'm a bit under halfway there after 35 years with a few stretches of inactivity.

I'm a few backs short and don't really expect to complete a set of backs. (Missing P460 f42, Drum, Uzit, Bl460, and if you count them brown OM and brown Lenox also Ty Cobb and type 1 coupon which I've decided not to count. )

Mine run the whole range, from some really beat ones to some that are very nice.

What I'd recommend is buying cards that appeal to you. Either for the overall look, the condition, or just being a good deal at the time.

Ungraded cards can always be graded, and graded can always be cracked out. I find sending them in to be fun all by itself, but don't see the point for very worn commons with common backs.

I've tried to stay with VG-ex lately, but if a card is P-F and has something interesting going on I won't pass it up.

Steve B

[E93]

My goal from the start (30 years ago) was a clean, crease-free vg/ex to ex set. Although I have about a dozen I would like to upgrade, that is basically where I am at. My cards technically grade from vg/ex to nm, but they have similar eye-appeal. The set was almost entirely raw, except for a few of the bigger name HOFs. About six or seven years ago I got all the HOFs and scarcities graded. The HOFs average about ex+ according to PSA. The commons are still in the binder, which I enjoy. This has worked for me.
JimB

[mrvster]

Welcome aboard! you picked the right set to collect....I am absolutely obsessed with T206(especially printer's scrap).....anyone here will tell you...

anyway, so many ways to collect it....I like the rarer pieces.....

try ungraded raw at first....get a "feel" for them....sounds "weird" but smell them, touch them......we will coach you on every purchase if you need....you can email me/pm me if you want....


if your just going for straight set, try SGC for size, they are great...love the look....you can get great VG 3's" affordably....

but be careful, once the monster grabs hold of you!

[Eric72]

The old mantra rings true every time. "Collect what you like and like what you collect."

There is no one-size-all approach to collecting anything. I personally target T206 cards that are graded VG by Beckett, PSA, and SCG. Having said that, I have raw cards and other grades...and thoroughly enjoy all of them.

I understand the idea of uniformity, especially if you plan to display your collection. If I planned on devoting wall space to cardboard, it would most likely be raw cards with nice fronts and major paper loss on the back, in a series of identical matted frames. The 520 cards that are not tremendously expensive would look nice in 5 frames...each with 13 columns across and 8 rows from top to bottom. If lucky enough to acquire the Big 4, those would be graded by SGC and the holders would be placed in separate frames.

But that's just me...and I do not display my collection. The key here is that you find out what YOU like and chart your course from there.

Good luck and Happy Collecting,

Eric

[thehoodedcoder]

i personally collect psa. i feel like their values are going to keep going comapred to SGC. i also think there are more of them, especially in lower grades. having them graded is nice as the case protects them pretty well in most cases.

if you buy raw and decide you want them graded, it will cost you your first born.

i liken it to the lord of the rings. the closer you get to completion, the harder and more expensive it will become. good luck.

kevin

[conor912]

I prefer raw, but if you go graded, be careful picking too small of a niche (only t206, only graded, only sgc, only 40). you will only end up backing yourself into a corner. If you do that, through the years you will guaranteed end up with cards that you don't really like just because they are the grade you want AND you will find that you have to pass on cards you DO really like just because they are the wrong grade or slabbed by the wrong company. Raw or graded, your collecting, just like personalities and relationships, will morph over the years. Leave yourself some flexibility to learn and change.