Approaching the 1952 Topps Set

[CamaroDMD]

I have been thinking and discussing a lot about doing a baseball set (I've mostly done football vintage) and trying to figure out what I want to do. The truth is...the 1952 Topps set has always been first in my mind (and everyone else). My original plan was a 57 or newer set...something I could do fairly quickly and put in an album, but the more I think about it the more that seems less and less gratifying. Why not do something worthwhile?

The more I think, the more I think about 1952. The truth is, I think I can do it. I'm only 28 and I'm a year into my career as a dentist...so I have a career of good income potential ahead of me. Why not take it slow and build a 1952 set? Frankly, until it comes to the high numbers and big names I can do it as a side project for a while.

The way I figure it, I can focus in the PSA 4-5 range and buy one card at a time. Probably start with the low numbers (cheaper and right now since I'm so early in my career my disposable income is lower) and work my way up. I'd probably just do a basic set too...probably focusing on red backs (I think they look nicer). One of my big focuses will be on centering and overall eye appeal.

A couple questions though. I feel that if I am going to do this...invest all the time and money into this project that each card should be graded. What do you think about that?

Also, my understanding is that the first 80 cards came in both red and black back variety. Is that the case? It seems, just looking at the sales prices that the black backs tend to command a little more of a premium. Is that accurate or am I over analyzing?

Finally, in the PSA 4-5 range what should a graded low number common with good centering sell for?

[Zone91]

All you need to know (link below) and for me yes I prefer graded cards of the same company for a set build:

http://www.psacard.com/Articles/Arti...-meets-the-eye

Most people do not collect the gray backs since they are just to expensive!!

Post # 4

[ALR-bishop]

The first 80 cards in the set do come with either red of black backs and the black backs usually do carry a small premium. Unless you eventually plan to pursue a master set ( or even if you do) a mix of the two backs is not unusual in first building the set. I prefer ungraded cards because you can then easily store them in 8 pocket sheet in a binder for easy access and display. But I pursue cards as a hobby and not an investment. If your goal is to one day sell at a profit, graded cards might serve you better. In the 4th post of the 1952 Mantle thread in this forum CW ( Chuck) has a link to 2 good resources to research pricing.

Good luck

[steve B]

You might want to consider trying some of the more expensive cards early. Those seem to increase more quickly. When I started collecting a nice common was $3 and Mantles just under $1000. Now Psa 4 commons are around $14 or so, some cheaper. And Mantle is expensive even for worn one. Way more than 4x the price they were in 1980.

You won't progress as quickly, but I think what you pay will eventually be less than buying the stars last.

Steve B

[Zach Wheat]

Camaro,

When I started completing the set a number of years ago, I concentrated on picking up 1 or more lots of cards either at auction, eBay or privately. I did not worry so much about every grade as I knew I would have plenty of time to upgrade later. I preferred to allocate resources to buying cards rather than fees on grading. You have the advantage in this environment in that prices for most cards - particularly the high end ones - are more reasonable now than at other times.

I also tried to acquire high numbers whenever they were under a certain condition sensitive price point - and this strategy has served me well.

I have also found cardtarget.com to be a great "free" resource for tracking prices. They have a separate section devoted to 1952 Topps sales.

Best of luck,

ZWheat

[CamaroDMD]

One thing I have always wondered about these cards is how was the image made? They appear to be drawings...but sometimes they also appear to have some photographic traits to them. Are they solely drawings done by an artist (like some of the earlier cards), are they a photograph that has been heavily enhanced by an artist...or something else? I have always assumed they are drawings...but I have never had that confirmed.