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#1
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I collected baseball cards as a kid (late 80's/early 90's). However, I am looking to get back into it with a focus on pre-1960's cards that have investment grade focus. Even though my focus is acquire "works of art", I would prefer to have the ability to sell them at some point in the future.
1) Am I better off getting 1-3 high profile cards in great condition or 10+ average cards in decent condition? 2) Where is the best place to find a reputable cards/sellers (local dealer, online dealer, ebay, etc)? 3) Is the PSA guide a good indication of value or are there other pricing guides that are more useful? 4) Is PSA the most recognized/high quality rating system out there? 5) Any other tips you can throw at me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks |
#2
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The PSA guide is woefully inaccurate. Most subscribe to Vintagecardprices.com to learn prices. Or use google searches. SGC is good for 19th century material and pre-war cards, but not set registry type stuff. I like the 3 cards idea. 3 is a good number. Really, I think five is too many. 99% of the posters here will disagree. Best to use an auction house like REA, Goodwin, Heritage. Ebay is sketchier, so make sure the seller is reliable. But the best cards all go to auction houses these days. The dealers are almost all overpriced. Take some time to follow the auctions this winter to get accustomed - wait to buy until springtime. Study past auction results - you can go to the Robert Edward Auctions website and see the kinds of stuff they sell, then decide what you like. Just an opinion - most people here like pre-war cards and they are ultimately more rare and interesting. Portrait cards are great art-like collectibles, whether they be T206, N172, etc. |
#3
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Thanks a lot for the info. You gave me a lot to research/think about.
Is there a minimum price that is considered "investment grade" or is based more on the rarity of the card? What do you mean by "1 of 1". I've seen "1 of 3", "1 of 6", etc. I understand its a tradeoff but would you rather have a "common" card PSA10 or "star" player in lesser condition? |
#4
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I would not buy any 50's cards because they are not rare and the buyers for those cards are baby boomers who are dying out and/or selling their collections.
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#5
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Most people here will say to pick a few of the very best. I disagree for 2 reasons. First, there isn't a difference in total profit if 1 card valued at $10,000 increases to $12,000 compared to 100 cards at $100 each increasing to $120 each. Although I realize it's quicker and easier to sell just 1 card than 100 cards. But the logic is the same when considering 1-3 cards vs 10-30 cards.
But the biggest reason for not buying a card that is 1 of 1 or even 1 of 3 for investment purposes is that it may suddenly become 1 of 10 which will kill the value. Think of the Black Swamp find, Hard for that to happen to mid-grade cards. |
#6
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Go for true scarcity, NOT grade scarcity.
A PSA 10 with a population of 1 in the grade (1 of 1) could be a 1 of 10 tomorrow. So, the value could drop dramatically. Pick a scarce card of a big named HOFer. |
#7
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Agree go for scarcity but I think it also needs to be popular/(in demand).
I think a fun way is to post and ask everyone if you could afford 1-5 cards with a budget up to 50k what would you purchase. If you can get around 20+ responses then take the cards that get the most votes. Im guessing the list would have cards like- 1933 Goudey Lajoie T206 Plank T206 Magie 1916 Ruth Rookie E98 Wagner (Black Swamp find) E98 Cobb (Black Swamp find) 1952 Topps Mantle Etc Good luck. |
#8
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Any other online sites I should be watching for pricing and/or auctions?
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#9
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dont waste your time with card grading, its a scam to benefit a few at the expense of the many. a grade of 10 will be something to overpay for. its the same as a 9 only they want 50 times your cash. if you want an investment, skip cards, too volatile. if you don't believe it, ask warren buffet how much he has invested in baseball cards.
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