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#1
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The condition of your monster
Reading through the monster number thread, I couldn't help but see a lot of people growing their sets rapidly, which obviously has an associated expense.
Basically got me thinking about what condition people were trying to achieve. Some people build beaters, some try to build "investment grade" sets etc etc... Just wondering what overall condition you're trying to build your set in? I don't want this to turn into one of those threads that indicts TPG either, so if you collect raw T206s I'd say basically "grade" your own set avg condition 1-10 Also, are you building higher grade commons and lower grade HOF? I think I've seen a few people that have a lot of 6s then a bunch of Cobb/young etc etc 2 and 3s. Obviously there's no right answer to building a set, and also it's 100% dependent on financial feasability... Most collectors simply can't put together a PSA 7/8 monster (nor can I) |
#2
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So far I've been able to do mine in SGC 60 and 70.. (See below) Overall I am hoping to be VG-EX or better for the entire set. But like you said it all comes down to $$$$ and I don't really make that much..
Happy collecting.. |
#3
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I'm a front/back collector so the condition depends on the back. Common backs, I try for no less than PSA 4/SGC 50. Uncommon and rare backs, PSA 1 to PSA 4 or SGC 10 to SGC 50. No qualifers on the PSA's and no writing or major paper loss on the SGC's.
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#4
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When I started my T206 set, I was an avid raw collector, willing to take beaters and trimmed cards. As my set evolved, I eventually took a liking to graded cards and cards of higher grades. As for my set grade, it ranges from raw partial cards (corners missing) to 4's and 5's.
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T206 518/518 |
#5
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I'm different from most
I'm different from most and only buy/keep cards in SGC 40. I stumbled upon this when I was looking through my initial attempt of "any condition" SGC holders about two years ago. I had 100+ cards in SGC 10-50, but the fact that I had such a wide disparity in condition bothered me. I decided on 40s because of the ratio of eye appeal to cost. Don't get me wrong, there's still a wide range of conditions in SGC 40 holders, and I still consider eye appeal when buying.
So... my goal is 520 (Piedmont, Sweet Cap, Polar Bear, Old Mill backs only) in SGC 40 for a net cost of around $10K. Right now I'm a little over half way and in around $4K but still have some BIG cards to get: Cobbs, Johnsons, Youngs. Once I get them all, the set will be sold and I'll start on another. To me it's all about the chase... |
#6
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Quote:
So you think it is possible to build a SGC 40 set (520) for $10K? My thinking was that I'd have to spend at least $15K to achieve that. Probably you got some good deals in the past to help you with that figure...or made some good profit on your sales? |
#7
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i build my t206 set in VG or less grade.
I have arround 95 t206 graded by psa and sgc but now i buy Raw cards because of the price, and the space.... graded card take too much space in my safe. I work on a 522 cards set with the magie and the plank. I will never be able to afford Wagner or Doyle. I have no concern at this time for back.... i only have SC, piedmont and a couple polar bear back. I am a front collector. Last edited by g_vezina_c55; 05-30-2012 at 03:38 PM. |
#8
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My figures...
Some good deals, but mostly profit from sales. "50s pay for 40s" is my slogan... I buy mostly raw and get anything that I think is 40 or higher graded. The cards that come back that I don't need are sold/traded.
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#9
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My goal is to complete the set in average VG 3 condition, with some 2's and some 4's. As it turns out many of the cards I sent in for grading from my purchases years ago have come back SGC 50 to SGC 80 (1 actually got an 84), so I'll probably be downgrading those at some point to help obtain some of the tougher and more expensive cards.
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