1981-1989 Star Rookies..to grade or not?

[oldschool73]

Hello,
In order to sell..and maximize any potential revenue. I'm interested in opinions on whether or not I should get any of my '81-'91 cards graded? Not Tiffany, just Topps (Topps Traded), Fleer (Fleer Update) & Donruss (Donruss Rookies). It appears only 10s carry value for these cards...but not clear if there is really much of a market even then.
Thanks
-os73

[Peter_Spaeth]

It depends on which players and if you have a realistic chance at any 10s. If it's a Lee Smith that might 9 or more likely 8, I would say probably not worth it, for example.

[DaClyde]

I think you would likely end up spending $15+ per card, only for them to come back as 9s that sell for $10. How much are you looking to lose per card?

However, I would kind of like to have a graded 1989 Donruss Hensley Meulens, just to have as a novelty, but PSA has only graded two of them. Someone else has done the math.

[JustinD]

Originally Posted by DaClyde

I think you would likely end up spending $15+ per card, only for them to come back as 9s that sell for $10. How much are you looking to lose per card?

However, I would kind of like to have a graded 1989 Donruss Hensley Meulens, just to have as a novelty, but PSA has only graded two of them. Someone else has done the math.

This is the penultimate reason for high sale prices on 80's/early 90's PSA 10's. They are absolutely rare as hen's teeth due to the ROI risk of submission.

As someone who collects only 2 player collections on the registry and one being an 80's/90's fairly semi-star/common I have overpaid stupid for 10s. Simply because no one is going to submit them on a gamble. I have never submitted a card because it's just something I feel I would have no luck on.

If you want a common 10, your only option is 4 Sharp and begging them to send it in. Admittedly, it probably won't look like a solid 10, but they get them. (I'll leave the hundreds of conspiracy threads to speak for themselves on the reason why).

[bcbgcbrcb]

Earlier this year, I sent in a batch of 38 primarily 1980’s RC’s to PSA, thinking many had a good shot at a 10. I wound up with 1 (1986 Fleer Update Bonds). More 8’s than anything else and incredibly 2 PSA 5’s on both Toys’R’Us Bo Jackson’s when I thought that both had excellent shots at 10’s. To this day, still can’t figure out either one of these grades. I know, it’s a lost cause…..

[philliesfan]

At this past Philly show in Oaks, PA. I sold a lot of that stuff raw. I know most would probably have graded high with 9's and 10's but I just don't want to pay $15.00 each for 10 Mattingly rookies only to get maybe 1 10 and the rest 8's and 9's. Just not worth it to me.

Of coarse, there are exceptions.

Bob

[Mike D.]

My two suggestions would be:

1. Compare prices of any cards you have raw and are considering grading with recent comp sales on eBay in PSA 8, 9, and 10.

2. Use a 10x magnifying glass when reviewing any cards you're considering submitting.

[jacksoncoupage]

Originally Posted by DaClyde

I think you would likely end up spending $15+ per card, only for them to come back as 9s that sell for $10. How much are you looking to lose per card?

However, I would kind of like to have a graded 1989 Donruss Hensley Meulens, just to have as a novelty, but PSA has only graded two of them. Someone else has done the math.

This represents nearly 80% of my "to grade" pile of card saver 1 sleeved stuff. I have a two-row box full of stuff like this. Stuff nobody will ever grade but I'm too scared to waste the money on with PSA's current brutal standards.