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#1
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I've been avoiding getting "A" grades in my collection. But for this card, I couldn't turn it down, as I hadn't stumbled across it in any higher grades.
So, any suggestions as to what's wrong with this card? Trimming? I had hoped that SGC might give more info, but perhaps back in 2015 they didn't usually do this? ![]()
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Collecting Federal League (1914-1915) H804 Victorian Trade Cards N48 & N508 Virginia Brights/Dixie/Sub Rosa NY Highlanders & Fed League Signatures ....and Japanese Menko Baseball Cards https://japanesemenkoarchive.blogspot.com/ |
#2
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For an eye investigation, you're going to have to post larger, clearer pics for the experts here to have a better chance of an accurate assessment.
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All the cool kids love my YouTube Channel:
Elm's Adventures in Cardboard Land ![]() https://www.youtube.com/@TheJollyElm Looking to trade? Here's my bucket: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152396...57685904801706 “I was such a dangerous hitter I even got intentional walks during batting practice.” Casey Stengel Spelling "Yastrzemski" correctly without needing to look it up since the 1980s. Overpaying yesterday is simply underpaying tomorrow. ![]() |
#3
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Oh thanks! I've never been good at this, so I usually go by what the "professionals" grade things as, so I try to stay above a 1.5 in my collection
![]() Figure this will be a placeholder for quite a while... ![]() ![]()
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Collecting Federal League (1914-1915) H804 Victorian Trade Cards N48 & N508 Virginia Brights/Dixie/Sub Rosa NY Highlanders & Fed League Signatures ....and Japanese Menko Baseball Cards https://japanesemenkoarchive.blogspot.com/ |
#4
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4 most common reasons that come to mind for an A grade are:
1) Trimming 2) Missing big chunks of the card / paper loss / pin holes 3) Recoloring 4) Somebody really messed with it, by say lacquering it or laminating it. Or putting tape or glue on it! Not sure if any or all of them come into play here, but #1 and #3 seem like the most likely culprits in this case.
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Trying to wrap up my master mays set, with just a few left: 1968 American Oil left side 1971 Bazooka numbered complete panel Last edited by raulus; 03-03-2023 at 06:58 AM. |
#5
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The bat ear on the top right is most telling.
Last edited by 2dueces; 03-03-2023 at 05:46 AM. |
#6
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I'd say even more on the top left corner. Look at that sharpness and curvature on the left border. Trim city.
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#7
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agree, definitely looks trimmed.
Personally I don't mind authentic grades and often prefer to get a nicer card for the price of a visual disaster of a poor numerical grade.
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- Justin D. Player collecting - Lance Parrish, Jim Davenport, John Norlander. Successful B/S/T with - Highstep74, Northviewcats, pencil1974, T2069bk, tjenkins, wilkiebaby11, baez578, Bocabirdman, maddux31, Leon, Just-Collect, bigfish, quinnsryche...and a whole bunch more, I stopped keeping track, lol. |
#8
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Back a bit farther than 2015 if you didn't want anything slabbed as "A" they would send back a slip with the notes.
The reasons above are the most common, but a lot of other stuff would get slabbed as "A". The unfortunate thing is that most collectors only look at size or straightness, but not the details of the cut. So anything factory but unusual gets tossed into the "A" category. See below. Using my slightly less than scientific method for checking straightness from scans(a bit of cardstock held up to the flat monitor as a straightedge) The top is actually straight. The left side does appear curved, but... the pics are phone pics not scans and were taken at an angle so there may be some lens stuff going on. The image of the card is narrower at the top than bottom, and the right edge has a similar curve, so it presents sort of hourglass shape. That makes me lean towards a lens/range etc issue more than an actual curve. Curved cuts can happen, but would not be concave on both sides. Here's one I sent in that is nice, but was rejected for very rough cuts top and bottom. That is often from a dull blade in the cutter. This one would be rejected, but is facory cut. This odd cut comes from a bit of debris either in or below the stack of sheets being cut. The other two I had rejected, one was factory but undersize, the other actually trimmed all around, (an embarassing miss on my part, rushing to get 10 I thought were good enough to bother with near a submission deadlne. ) All 4 would be slabbed "A" but only one really would deserve it. |
#9
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I am not afraid of the A
Ideally i want a number grade at the highest that I can afford But 1. I am more concerned about the eye appeal of the card 2. Also depends on the scarcity. Kind of like the one you picked up if the card is rare and I want it I better get especially if I do not know when another might be available or depending on my budget
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#10
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I'll take A grade cards with the right discount. The same holds true for cards graded 1-2 that have great eye appeal.
Lower grade OJs.jpg
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fr3d c0wl3s - always looking for OJs and other 19th century stuff. PM or email me if you have something cool you're looking to find a new home for. |
#11
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In this bubble, you get a lot more for your money with an "A" grade.
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#12
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![]() Quote:
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#13
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Sorry if I missed it in this thread but will a card also not receive an "A" if it is detectable that it has once was been placed in a screw down holder squishing it/enlarging it some?
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#14
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![]() Quote:
Although I guess there's room to question whether there's really a difference between plain old Authentic and Authentic Altered, since most of the Authentic grades are handed out due to some form of alteration.
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Trying to wrap up my master mays set, with just a few left: 1968 American Oil left side 1971 Bazooka numbered complete panel Last edited by raulus; 03-03-2023 at 03:09 PM. |
#15
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![]() Quote:
Thanks. ![]()
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52 Topps cards. https://www.flickr.com/photos/144160280@N05/ http://www.net54baseball.com/album.php?albumid=922 |
#16
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Thanks again for all of the great advice. I think the edges are straight, and my photo was a bit angled to avoid glare - sorry about that for implying there was a curve there. I was able to compare with another version of the card, and it seems that at least there is trimming involved. I stacked the two images:
![]() Seems a good chunk is missing from the top edge. Unsure about left/right, as it seems the centering is a tad off between these two copies, but if someone trimmed the top heavily, I'm sure they didn't shy away from taking a bit off the sides..... I think I am more comfortable with an "A" grade, if I know *what* was done.
__________________
Collecting Federal League (1914-1915) H804 Victorian Trade Cards N48 & N508 Virginia Brights/Dixie/Sub Rosa NY Highlanders & Fed League Signatures ....and Japanese Menko Baseball Cards https://japanesemenkoarchive.blogspot.com/ |
#17
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![]() Quote:
Collecting in the 21st century!
__________________
fr3d c0wl3s - always looking for OJs and other 19th century stuff. PM or email me if you have something cool you're looking to find a new home for. |
#18
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I’m not convinced that AA and A are really all that different or result in different prices. Unless, of course, any specific card is in much worse shape than another with the same designation.
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Trying to wrap up my master mays set, with just a few left: 1968 American Oil left side 1971 Bazooka numbered complete panel |
#19
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Here is another E106 card for comparison. Many of the ones I have seen in less fresh condition like this Speaker are also, perhaps not coincidentally, larger in size.
Brian |
#20
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I also like my trimmed cards to have real obvious trimming, not none of this new-fangled, half-ass trimming.
Brian (by the way, can this E106 be any more colorful?) |
#21
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Yes, Brian, Mr. Schaefer could be much more colorful if only you were to use some Sharpies (e.g., purple, yellow, etc.) to color in his drab-looking uniform and cap.
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Seeking very scarce/rare cards for my Sam Rice master collection, e.g., E210 York Caramel Type 2 (upgrade), 1931 W502, W504 (upgrade), W572 sepia, W573, 1922 Haffner's Bread, 1922 Keating Candy, 1922 Witmor Candy Type 2 (vertical back), 1926 Sports Co. of Am. with ad & blank backs. Also 1917 Merchants Bakery & Weil Baking cards of WaJo. Also E222 cards of Lipe, Revelle & Ryan. |
#22
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I love the A grade. It allows you to get a super looking card for a fraction of the price!! Unfortunately, nefarious people tend to crack them out and sell them raw for more money. Sad but true.
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#23
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E106s are tough so one with this eye appeal, even in an Authentic holder is definitely a keeper. I try to avoid Authentic slabbed cards but if the alternative is either a 1 with major creasing or not having the card, I’ll take the A.
I would never break out an Authentic grade card and sell it without the caveat that is was graded A but I’m Old School, and I know that it happens way too often, especially on eBay. Your card is a beauty by the way, nice pick up. |
#24
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The only Authentic card I've ever bought was this one. I just thought the eye appeal over most 1's was so much better that I was willing to overlook the grade. I guess it's the "dreaded AA grade". I'm not sure how it's different than many other show here. As far as I can tell it's just trimmed.
Last edited by GasHouseGang; 03-10-2023 at 02:20 PM. |
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