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  #1  
Old 11-16-2022, 04:42 AM
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mrreality68 mrreality68 is offline
Jeffrey Kuhr
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Long Island, NY
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Default Buy the Card? The Slab? or The Front of the Card

Hi Everyone

Just curious

How do you buy your Cards Buy the Card (front and Back)?
Buy the Card (Based on Front of card and Back does not matter?
Or Buy the Slab?

For example a Card may Grade a PSA 3 but the eye appeal on the front looks better than a 3 but the back of the card may have some paper loss, spotches etc.
OR on the Flip Side the Card may Grade a PSA 3 the front is ok eye appeal perhaps a few little creases but the Back is pristine.

Your thoughts
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Thanks all

Jeff Kuhr

https://www.flickr.com/photos/144250058@N05/

Looking for
1920 Heading Home Ruth Cards
1920s Advertising Card Babe Ruth/Carl Mays All Stars Throwing Pose
1917-20 Felix Mendelssohn Babe Ruth
1921 Frederick Foto Ruth
Rare early Ruth Cards and Postcards
Rare early Joe Jackson Cards and Postcards
1910 Old Mills Joe Jackson
1914 Boston Garter Joe Jackson
1911 Pinkerton Joe Jackson
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  #2  
Old 11-16-2022, 06:11 AM
Cmvorce Cmvorce is offline
Chris
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Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Texas
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I have a weighted priority list:

First priority: front
Second priority: back
Third priority: slab

Unless it’s a prewar HOFer, I’m probably cracking it out of the slab anyway.
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  #3  
Old 11-16-2022, 06:15 AM
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3-2-count 3-2-count is offline
T0NY @
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Being that I'm a collector who focuses on overall condition and eye appeal, both the front and back of a card are important to me.

When purchasing a card I do my best to stray away from any creasing or paper loss, but can live with some light staining.
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Last edited by 3-2-count; 11-16-2022 at 06:16 AM.
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  #4  
Old 11-16-2022, 06:26 AM
obcbobd obcbobd is offline
Bob Donaldson
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Front - a lot
Back - a little
Slab - little or none (99% of my cards are raw) - actually for some cards, especially Exhibits, Fine/Wide-pens. Writing on the back is a plus
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Last edited by obcbobd; 11-16-2022 at 08:49 AM.
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  #5  
Old 11-16-2022, 06:40 AM
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Scott S
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Location: Boston area
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I just bought this '33 Ruth Sport Kings last night, which I think perfectly shows I feel on this one. Great looking front, but a few small spots of paper loss bring the grade down to a price that's right in my range for the card. I wouldn't be able to buy this in the higher grade that the front would warrant, but I'm thrilled with it for what it is!
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  #6  
Old 11-16-2022, 07:43 AM
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JimmyC JimmyC is offline
Jim Caravello
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooter729 View Post
I just bought this '33 Ruth Sport Kings last night, which I think perfectly shows I feel on this one. Great looking front, but a few small spots of paper loss bring the grade down to a price that's right in my range for the card. I wouldn't be able to buy this in the higher grade that the front would warrant, but I'm thrilled with it for what it is!
Hell of a looking Ruth! That's a STRONG 1.5!! Congrats!

I always buy the card first - with emphasis on the corners - front takes priority over the back - I never buy the grade on the slab....It's always about corners to me, centering next and then surface......

I've seen some many 7s that should be 6s and some even 5's, its not even funny.....
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Last edited by JimmyC; 11-16-2022 at 08:27 AM.
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  #7  
Old 11-16-2022, 07:45 AM
jimq16415 jimq16415 is offline
jim qu.inlisk
 
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 231
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I don't think I would have this card if not for the back damage. My eyes aren't great so when I look at the front I'm happy.
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  #8  
Old 11-16-2022, 08:10 AM
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Rhotchkiss Rhotchkiss is offline
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Depends.

For PSA registry sets (I only have two - T206 and T3), I admit that the number on the flip is often most important; anyone on the registry who tells you otherwise is lying. Its stupid and it may result in a lesser card for more money, but that registry is a powerful bitch and can make one think less rationally.

For most everything else, its all about the front.

The exception to the aforementioned is when I am buying the card for the back. Sometimes, the rareness of the front/back is such that it doesn't matter how ugly the back (or front) is (e.g., 1916 Tango Eggs Cobb). But if I am trying to get a T206 Uzit example, the way the back looks is more important than the front, because its the back I am after.
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  #9  
Old 11-16-2022, 08:42 AM
steve B steve B is offline
Steve Birmingham
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: eastern Mass.
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Being more opportunistic and on a much lower budget, I tend to worry less about condition, and more about if I need the card or if it's a good deal for that example.
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  #10  
Old 11-16-2022, 10:48 AM
raulus raulus is offline
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Join Date: May 2022
Posts: 2,653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhotchkiss View Post
Depends.
Its stupid and it may result in a lesser card for more money, but that registry is a powerful bitch and can make one think less rationally.
Hopefully she doesn't yell "You're my bitch!!" at you, like Conan taught this student driver to do:

https://youtu.be/1Za8BtLgKv8
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Trying to wrap up my master mays set, with just a few left:

1968 American Oil left side
1971 Bazooka numbered complete panel
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  #11  
Old 11-20-2022, 01:20 PM
Bestdj777 Bestdj777 is offline
Chris
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Location: Washington, DC
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I only collect Mantle cards (at least as far as vintage goes), and those cards generally fall into two categories: 1) they are common cards, in which case I’m largely just buying one to cross of my list and don’t care about back, front, or slab—as long as Mantle isn’t scribbled out on the front of the card; or 2) they are really rare or expensive and I don’t have any choice in what I buy.
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