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View Poll Results: Complete low grade set or high grade star card from the same set? | |||
Complete low grade set |
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101 | 44.30% |
High grade star card from the same set |
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127 | 55.70% |
Voters: 228. You may not vote on this poll |
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#1
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Interesting topic I saw today. Would you rather have a low grade complete set or a high grade star card from same set? And why?
Example: A) Complete 1934 Goudey Baseball Set or B) High Grade 1934 Goudey Lou Gehrig For the purposes of the post, both options are worth the same $$$ wise. Last edited by parkplace33; 09-26-2022 at 10:26 AM. |
#2
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Set.
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#3
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I voted low grade as I made the decision 20+ yrs ago, to collect more instead of less. Except for a few cards mine are around vg'ish....
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Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
#4
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I've always been a set collector so I would go for the low grade set (which I have many of).
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#5
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I voted for the set, but I'm a junkie.
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#6
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1 High Grade Gehrig.
Easier to liquidate. |
#7
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I voted for a high grade star card.
I am not a set collector but always like quality cards from specific sets.
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Thanks all Jeff Kuhr https://www.flickr.com/photos/144250058@N05/ Looking for 1920 Heading Home Ruth Cards 1917-20 Felix Mendelssohn Babe Ruth 1921 Frederick Foto Ruth Rare early Ruth Cards and Postcards 1910 Old Mills Joe Jackson 1914 Boston Garter Joe Jackson 1915 Cracker Jack Joe Jackson 1911 Pinkerton Joe Jackson |
#8
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Quality over quantity for me, without hesitation.
I’d choose the high grade blue chip.
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Tony A. |
#9
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Just the 1 card. My place is crowded as it is.
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#10
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Low grade quantity over quality
Especially if it’s a t206 set, or 1933 goudey your set Last edited by MR RAREBACK; 09-26-2022 at 01:17 PM. |
#11
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For me it would really depend on the specific set. For common sets like the 34 Goudey in the example I would lean toward a high grade single card. But a rare, difficult, or seldom completed set such as E105, E107, E104-3, T222, N167, etc I would take the set in a heartbeat.
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Current Wantlist: E92 Nadja - Bescher, Chance, Cobb, Donovan, Doolan, Dougherty, Doyle (with bat), Lobert, Mathewson, Miller (fielding), Tinker, Wagner (throwing), Zimmerman E/T Young Backrun - Need E90-1 E92 Red Crofts - Anyone especially Barry and Shean |
#12
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I went with the set. In vintage cards condition is very low on my priority list. The only thing lower would be centering.
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#13
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Good question topic.
I went with 1 good card route, but in my earlier hobby days I was much more of a lower end set guy. |
#14
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At this point in my life, I went with the single high grade card. While I actually prefer my vintage cards to have some wear to them, I don't want to go back to the days where I have too many cards that I don't really care about. That, and I've got enough non-trading card related stuff in the house I need to get rid of before I would even entertain the idea of building a card set again.
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#15
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It depends on the set. I'd rather have a complete, low-grade 1934 Goudey set than one nice Gehrig. I'd rather (and do) have one nice 1957 Topps Willie Mays than an an entire low-grade set.
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#16
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(I don't currently have a '34 Goudey, have to fix that soon) .
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Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com Last edited by Leon; 09-26-2022 at 12:20 PM. |
#17
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I voted for the complete set as that's what my track record shows, but in the future, may be leaning towards a single card.
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Working Sets: Baseball- T206 SLers - Virginia League (-1) 1952 Topps - low numbers (-1) 1953 Topps (-91) 1954 Bowman (-3) 1964 Topps Giants auto'd (-2) |
#18
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I tend to prefer quality to quantity, but there are some outstanding sets out there where I've spent money on common cards just to have the complete set. It's a poor return on investment, but ultimately this is a hobby for me, and not every decision is guided by my ROI.
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#19
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As a type collector I'll take quality over quantity. Although, when building my E98 Master I took anything down to a 1 and upgraded as I went along.
- Last edited by Casey2296; 09-26-2022 at 02:03 PM. |
#20
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Depends if I built the set or not. If I'm buying an already complete low grade set vs buying a high grade star, then I'm buying the star card. If I get to build the set, then I'm building the set.
Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk |
#21
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My eyes are so accustomed to viewing low condition prewar cards that high graded ones don't look real to me. So obviously I voted for the set.
Brian |
#22
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depends on the set...size of the set...players included in the set. Caramel...or tobacco prewar set...yes please. 1952 topps...I'll take the mantle!!!!
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#23
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I'm happy with a few choice cards from a set - I voted for the single card.
No Gehrig's yet, or even 1934s, so a Gehrig would be an awesome start. It doesn't have the be a key card from a set even, but one I just enjoy. |
#24
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I have Gehrig, and a few others from the '34 set in low grade. Would LOVE to have the entire set. I'm not an investor; low grade raw is perfect for me. Could not give a hoot about nit-picky high grade BS.
__________________
James Ingram Successful net54 purchases from/trades with: Tere1071 (twice), Bocabirdman (5 times), 8thEastVB, GoldenAge50s, IronHorse2130, Kris19 (twice), G1911, dacubfan, sflayank, Smanzari, bocca001, eliminator, ejstel, lampertb, rjackson44 (twice), Jason19th, Cmvorce, CobbSpikedMe, Harliduck, donmuth, HercDriver, Huck, theshleps, horzverti, ALBB, lrush |
#25
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Set
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Looking for affordable T205 Hoblitzell no stats; also any T206 Drum |
#26
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The set works for me!
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#27
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set collector here but finding affordable commons is much harder these days.
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#28
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For me, it's neither. I don't really like low-grade cards. I hate creases, wrinkles, tape, and stains. But I also don't really have an interest in paying for anything above a 6 grade usually. Most everything vintage that's in a 9 or 10 holder has been altered/trimmed or is way over-graded, and I just have no interest in playing that game. I want mid-grade cards with strong eye-appeal. As far as sets vs stars goes, it entirely depends on the set for me. If I love the design of the set, then I'll build it out, otherwise, I only want the key cards.
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If it's not perfectly centered, I probably don't want it. |
#29
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Single high end for me , but can agree both are nice.
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#30
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I would have to go with the single nicer card, but that is just because of how my vintage collecting evolved since childhood.
In 1988 or so when I really first got into "old" (nobody started calling them vintage to my knowledge until the 21st century....) cards, I couldn't afford much at all - so single card pickups here and there became the norm simply because that was the sustenance I was allowed. A '66 Koufax, later a '58 Mantle / Aaron. I cherished the cards individually, and the idea of putting together something like a complete 1956 Topps set (my favorite) would have sounded as silly to me as hand collating a current Topps set - which though some of my friends were into that, I never was. As an adult collector who has bitten back hard into the hobby on at least 2 separate occasions - I just kind of continued with this mentality. I've always been a sucker for the stars, for good or bad - Mickey Mantle interests me a lot more than Mickey Vernon. I can get a lot of utility out of the Aaron card here and the Mays and Clemente there over having say, 100 different commons from the same set as one of those, if that makes sense. I did earlier this year rather uncharacteristically for me buy a complete '71 Topps set that was just too nice to pass up. But that is not my norm, and I don't see that happening again really - at least buying all in one fell swoop. I am slowly working on '67 and '72 sets by hand as well right now, just because I love the designs enough to want all of them. But that too is a fairly new mentality for me - and one that has only come with goal setting / direction planning / other boring adult-only aspects of the hobby - many of which I never considered as a kid. I'd be willing to bet had I started with all of this during a time where much less actual monetary value was put on the cards - say in the late 50's or early 60's - that I probably would have wound up more of a set collector. But I was born in 1977, and by the time I was shelling out quarters and dimes for my first wax packs almost a decade later, the handwriting on the wall tying cards to dollars was already well established. Who knows...
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. Last edited by jchcollins; 09-28-2022 at 06:01 AM. |
#31
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#32
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I hate creases, wrinkles, stains and poor focus. So the low grade set is not for me. But neither is the overpriced high grade star card (which could very well be altered, despite whatever number a 3rd party has assigned).
In this poll, I would like to have seen a third option for collecting mid-grade HOFers. That option comes closest to my collecting preference. Last edited by perezfan; 09-27-2022 at 12:02 PM. |
#33
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Great topic that got me thinking!
I think that while it would be nice to have a really nice high grade of a star, and certainly less space taken up, in my opinion you miss out on a lot of the fun that set building offers. Learning about obscure common players in a set and their stories has been a great way for me to learn about baseball history and appreciate the little details. I never would have explored Doc Powers, Gabby Street, or countless other stories that are overlooked. It would be a miss for someone not to get to appreciate all that set building has to offer. I’ve loved my T206 journey. But if a collector already has built a set, then single stars of a specific set makes sense if they have experienced the joys of set building beforehand. |
#34
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I am mainly a set collector but I have to vote with getting the high grade star card. I have started most of my sets that way and then finishing out the set with the HOF'ers, commons and variations. I think it makes it easier to finish a set when you have the star cards first
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#35
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I wish there was a "low grade star card" option lol. I don't have the space or want for sets and I like the star cards but I tend to go for the cheapest, nicest looking, and best centered copy that I can find which ends up being anywhere from a 1-5 usually.
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#36
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If it's not perfectly centered, I probably don't want it. |
#37
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Through buying, selling, and trading over the last 35 years, I’ve worked my way down from 4000+ cards to about 80 high end graded cards. At this rate, I’ll wind up with a collection of one Super Card.
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#38
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I endorse this message.
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#39
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1 Great card
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My website with current cards http://syckscards.weebly.com Always looking for 1938 Goudey's |
#40
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#41
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Low grade complete set for me. The thrill for me is in the chase.
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Nationals attended: 4 (3with Otis) |
#42
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I've always found complete sets to be of greater historical interest than that a single "super" card. Some of the pre-WW2 cards look acceptable in lower condition mostly due to the design and artwork, but for the cards that I have collected, mid-grade with no creases, wrinkles, or excessively worn corners fit my budget and eye appeal.
Phil aka Tere1071 complete 53 Bowman Color, 1971, 1972, 1974, and 1975 Topps Baseball sets that are always under improvement 1970 and 1973 Topps Baseball sets which are still under construction |
#43
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You've inspired me. I've had about 40 cards from my 1965 Topps set out to be graded for a year and a half as part of a group sub here. Now that I'm getting them back, I'm realizing I only really want a handful of the HOF players. I think I'm going to sell my 1965 set and then replace the cards I want long-term in decent enough condition to live with.
Last edited by Vegas Cards; 10-01-2022 at 01:33 PM. |
#44
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1 great/special card over a low grade set for me. I’ve never been a set builder.
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#45
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I voted for the high grade Gehrig over the low grade complete set.
I made the conscious decision around 2015'ish to pursue quality over quantity and have never regretted it. Now my collection only takes up 1/5th the space, is easier to store/sort/display/catalog, has better eye appeal (IMO), is easier to resale. I'm still in my 40's but as I age the desire to own everything is greatly diminished. |
#46
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For me, it would also depend on how low grade we're talking about. If it's a VG set that's one thing....but if it's a PR-GD set, then that would change things.
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Working on the following sets: 1916 and 1917 Zeenut, 1954B, 1955B, 1971T and 1972T |
#47
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I agree that there are several variables to this decision. If we are talking about a set I'm not really into, like the 34 Goudeys, I'd rather have a really nice Gehrig. But I'm working on an E98 set and only need four more to complete it. I'd rather have the last four in low grade and have a full low grade set that includes all the major players than just a really nice Cobb or Wagner from the set.
I can see a non set builder wanting a nice star card over the complete set, but I like the small sets like caramels to be complete. There really is no wrong answer here. .
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