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#1
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For the past 5-6 years, I have been working on a Topps run of the sets I initially collected as a kid (1973-1979). My normal set approach is to build out a raw set w as close to NM as I can afford and pick up about 10% of the cards in graded form as duplicates. I recently have been upgrading some of the raw cards in my completed sets: 1973, 1975, 1976, 1977 - - which tends to burn me out on the cost of buying NM singles.
So - when I decided over the weekend to have a crack at building the 1974 set, I decided to take a different approach for fun: build out a LOW GRADE set, and start with the original cards that I bought as a 7 year-old back in 1974. Going through my old rough cards was way more fun than I even imagined and putting together the base of a set without caring (too much) about quality was a blast. I know there are Mid-Grade collectors on here, but has anyone else tried anything similar to what I've started? I figure a few cheap large Lot Buys in lower grade should get me 90%+ of the way home. I have 39 PSA graded. A few stats - I always assumed that I bought fairly evenly throughout the season, but these stats make me think I may have loaded up later: I had 503 total cards: - 316 unique cards for the base set of 660 (344 to go) - 122 were dups (I had 12 triples and 5 quadruples of the same cards!) - 65 were "Traded" - I'd say I had doubles or triples of 10+ Traded Cards - only 1 Washington variation and 10 other San Diego cards - 4 seriously mis-cut cards & an appropriate number of wax/gum stains As a Cincinnati Reds fan, I always felt like they must limit the number of Reds in our market to get us to buy more. Out of the 438 base cards, I only had 12 Reds = 2.7% (vs. the expected 4.5% expected 30/660) - proving the conspiracy. Just kidding. Anyway, I'll probably build out a NM raw set down the line - but maybe not - if this keeps being this much fun (and cheap), I may take a crack at some other sets, too... Dan |
#2
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Dan,
I'm doing the same the thing with the same run, 1973-1979 and working on 1977 now. Let me know if you need any 1979 cards (I have an 800 count box) and have any extra 1977s? Mike |
#3
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I actually did the exact same thing as you for my 1975's...
My 73 on up are all NM, 76 and up I bought whole from vending lots and 73 & 74 I built from NM. I have tons of cards in those years from my youth...my 78-80 sets I actually have two...the ones I bought mint and my childhood sets that I have kept...and they were well loved. My 75 cards I had as a kid were VG at best, some better, some worse...and I had about 2/3rds of the set. I decided to build from there picking up first what I needed, and upgrading on occasion. The set quickly came together as all I needed were mostly commons. Grabbing 20 or 30 here and there from shows etc and the set really became a long term deal. I started this about 7 years or so ago, and just last week I picked up 10 cards as upgrades. Now every once in a while I'll grab the set in the evenings...crack a beer...and just go through the binder looking for upgrades. Getting harder and harder and I'd say I'm about 97% NM with lots of VG doubles...had a lot of fun doing that. I remember at the time I could have bought a NM set for about $300 (much more now) and I am sure I have spent more with this approach, but I made that decision to "build" and I appreciate this set that much more... Good luck!
__________________
John Otto 1963 Fleer - 1981-90 Fleer/Donruss/Score/Leaf Complete 1953 - 1990 Topps/Bowman Complete 1953-55 Dormand SGC COMPLETE SGC AVG Score - 4.03 1953 Bowman Color - 120/160 75% |
#4
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I haven't tried the building a whole set in low grade, but I have found as a rule that I have a lot more fun collecting low grade cards than high grade. Aside from being cheaper, I don't have to worry about things like accidentally dinging a corner, because someone else did that for me way back when.
__________________
Signed 1953 Topps set: 264/274 (96.35 %) |
#5
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This is how I do all my sets - no attention paid to condition, not a graded card in sight. Anything slabbed gets cracked out upon acquisition, and 95% of my cards are not even kept sleeved at all, just loose in boxes. It's more fun this way, and when every corner is dinged there's not much point in penny sleeves and top loaders.
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#6
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Sort of how I did mine, late 73 and 74 were my first years buying any good number of packs. Had 74-76 mostly complete and just never really stopped. I also didn't put much effort into finding the missing ones in 77-8 once I moved to a place with a card store.
So I didn't finish the 74 set until sometime in the late 90's, Still not done with 75, or 75 mini Something like 9 or 11 cards from 76. 77-83 I completed. |
#7
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It's only January 24, but this could be the thread of the year! I am starting down this very road. I used to fret about condition of all my cards and then one day it hit me that it really doesn't matter all that much. Outside of a friend or two, no one but me sees my cards and binder sets anyway. This is supposed to be about FUN and not stress and worry about what someone else may think about the condition of my cards. I am working my way through '73 (my birth year). So far, most cards are vgex ish, and that is probably better than what I even intended. I plan on moving through '73-'75 in like fashion. I already have '76 so I may move on to the later 70s after that. Good memories and low cost!
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#8
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I need the 73 and 74 sets to fill the gap in my span of collecting from the packs 1970-1975. I am looking at vg-ex sets for those years. I am working a deal to finish my 70 set which will range from vg-ex to ex-mint first. If anyone is looking for mid-grade 1971 and 1972 cards which include quite a few semi-high and high numbers, I have quite a few that I'd like to offer for trade towards either the 73s or 74s.
Phil aka Tere1071 |
#9
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#10
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Welcome aboard. What do you like to collect ?
Last edited by ALR-bishop; 04-06-2022 at 12:22 PM. |
#11
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I have been building sets from this era as well, just for the hey of it. My tactic has been to buy entire sets and then upgrade with the goal of getting to Ex+ using tough grading standards. This means I have a lot of replacement needs because when you buy a set no matter what the guy says inevitably dozens of cards will have wrinkles and need replacing. I suppose it’s different if you pay premium money but anyway.
Just bought a 77 and need to replace 60 cards. Did a 78 really cheaply and need to replace 100 cards or so. Will be hoping to find a dealer that sells decent commons for cheap. Also just got a 76 and need to look through that one. Hoping the big Rich Altman show this weekend has a dealer dumping cards from this era. I just can’t stand creases and junkers even if nobody is ever going to look through my nice binders. |
#12
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Marked checklists are also a no-no for me.
Also I have to say it is fun buying these sets and putting them in those sweet ultra pro platinum sheets in nice new binders but I am getting a bit tired of all the Rowland Office cards and Larry Histles. Then again it is fun when you are going card by card and Schmidt or Bench or Yaz etc pop up. |
#13
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__________________
"If you ever discover the sneakers for far more shoes in your everyday individual, and also have a wool, will not disregard the going connected with sneakers by Isabel Marant a person." =AcellaGet |
#14
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I am also working on a 74 set and I'm down to 1 last card in NM condition (#263). I have about 50 extra in EX-NM. Let me if i can help any of you guys out.
57 69 88 91 92 104 106 109 137 145 171 221 243 271 288 291 313 325 336 343 346 404 406 434 440 450 457 481 487 514 516 517 552 610 628 637 Checklist 660 23T 23T 123T 123T 139T 151T 313T 319T 649T |
#15
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I can use the following as long they don't include any diamond cuts, are no more than 70/30 off-center, and have near-perfect corners:
57; 91; 145; 291; 313; 325; 440; 450; 457; and 637 Thank you. Phil aka Tere1071 |
#16
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Message sent
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#17
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Check your inbox.
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#18
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I’ve been doing the same thing with the 1970 and 1971 sets.
If anyone has a bunch of lowish condition from the 1970 set (any cards that aren’t absolute trash, although I do collect miscuts) or 1971 high and semi-high that you’d like to trade for 1971 - 1979 cards, please let me know. Thanks
__________________
Always looking for 1956 Topps salesman samples, miscuts, sheet cuts, printer defects, panels, overprints, and other errors/oddities. https://www.flickr.com/e6phillips/albums |
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