1980s Stars: What is high grade enough?

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

Recently, I have returned to my 80s roots (I was born in 1973), and I am really enjoying myself. I have purchased several sets, which I have carefully placed into pages inside of binders. It is so much fun seeing the guys that I grew up cheering for and against! In addition to the many sets I have purchased and hope to purchase later on, I would like to buy some high-end examples of some of my very favorite cards/players of the 80s.

On another forum I read through a very enjoyable thread about the high grade 80s star cards some collectors there were buying. There seemed to be a great deal of pride in the plethora of PSA 10s being flashed about. There were also a smattering of 9s and few 8s. I looked on ebay to see the potential prices I might be paying for some cards I want. For the most part, I have not been a "grading guy" but think it might be fun to pick up a few graded cards of my 80s heroes in this case. It seems to me that it just isn't worth the premium that many 10s carry. For example, on one card I was looking at from 1984, the 10 was $449, and the 9 was $49. Another 10 was $249 while the 9 was $29 I think. I have collected a long time, but I can't tell the difference. Am I missing something?

[HasselhoffsCheeseburger]

If you have no desire for your collection to appreciate in value, you should be perfectly happy with PSA 9s for the 1980s cards. In most cases, there's enough supply of PSA 10s to satiate demand. In 99.999% of cases, there's a gargantuan excess in supply of PSA 9s.

Arthur

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

I hear what you are saying. This is primarily just enjoyment for me. My cards in the 80s sets have been carefully placed into new binders and pages by me. For the most part, all of the cards are NM or better, probably not the super duper PSA high grade stuff. I enjoy them and enjoy looking through them and reliving my childhood. ...LOL! I am thinking of picking up some of my very favorites in PSA high grade though, just for kicks. Though I wonder how many 10s were 9s until resubmitted multiple and how many 10s on ebay could earn the vaunted 10 again? It is a funny, funny game being played these days. I do have a hard time philosophically paying big 10 $ for cards that supposedly require a microscope to see differences.

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[Peter_Spaeth]

With the modern rookies I want, for the most part, if a 10 is say $100 or under I would buy the 10, otherwise a 9 is fine or for some 80s cards even a nice 8. I don't think any of it is a great investment though.

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

Good rule of thumb, Peter. Thank you.

[Exhibitman]

I don't bother with the graded thing at all. I just look for clean, clear, well-centered raw cards. I've seen lovely 8s and 7s I would be happy to own.

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

More and more, I have adopted this approach. Like I mentioned in the OP, I have purchased several nice NMish 80s sets lately and placed them all carefully in new binders and pages. I might have a little upgrading to do here and there, but the sets are raw and solid.

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[irv]

I have struggled with this question/dilema myself concerning a or a few 1952 Topps cards.
Most of my cards in my link below are in the 2-4 range with maybe a few 5's thrown in?

That is the range I mostly collect in mainly due to the fact that is the range I received my cards from my Father.

With that being said, however, I do desire a 7 or 8, and possibly a 9 (a 10 would be way to expensive/unaffordable for me for any player from that set) just to have one.

My fear is, once I do obtain one, I will be bitten and will spend way too much money trying to obtain more.