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#1
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Ive been collecting the various graded HOFers of the set and was vaguely thinking about going for the set. How do most people put this set together? Do most buy all of cards graded or is it common to put together an all non-graded set? Do you buy graded HOFers and then buy the rest of the "commons" in bulk, ungraded? And the backs? That's a whole nother part of the equation. I guess the various ways to put the set together make it that much more intriguing to collectors.
I realize this is a very subjective question and obviously financial constraints weigh in on one's options, but I was wondering if ya'll could expound on how collecting this set is "traditionally" done, or how YOU would do it if you were collecting the set and did't have unlimited money. Thanks in advance. |
#2
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Don't ever let someone tell you how to collect. Decide your preference based on personal taste and budget.
Raw will be cheaper, graded will be easier and more readily available. |
#3
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+1
Do what works for you and enjoy. But since you asked, I recently began my attempt to slay the Monster. I have decided to break it into sub-sets; this will allow it to be more "manageable". Currently, I am working on horizontals, HOFers, and Southern Leaguers. And although it's slightly more expensive, I have decided to do a graded set. Enjoy! |
#4
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I started the T206 earlier this year and I have about 100 PSA graded cards at the moment. Most cards are lower grade commons (PSA 1-4) with common backs. I wanted to make a dent in the number but have come to realize that the cards I enjoy are the star cards. So I am beginning to think I may end the chase early and just concentrate on HOFers and 'important' players from the set. I'm thinking that ten $300 cards would be more enjoyable than 100 $30 cards. SO my advice would be... get the big cards first.
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#5
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definitely what Sean said. I am currently just doing hall of famers and the Indianapolis team but i have a feeling ill continue on and do the whole set over time. kinda related to what sean said I'd do it in the order of what interests you most within the set (I.E. hofs, teams, individual player stories, leagues etc)
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#6
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+1 Sean nailed it. There are several ways to put the monster to rest. I just buy them as I see fit. I, like many collectors, have preferences like eye appeal, graded/ungraded, backs, availability, etc., you will have to decide what fits you best. I just search and buy what fits my preference. I have limited funds, so that dictates my purchasing power. It's been a lot of fun and before you know it, you'll have a decent amount. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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T206's Graded low-mid 219/520 T201's SGC/PSA 2-5 50/50 T202's SGC/PSA 2-5 10/132 1938 Goudey Graded VG range 37/48 |
#7
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The idea that you should do what works for you, and what you enjoy, makes sense. Hold that as a touchstone.
Unless you buy a set or near set, you're setting out on a long term endeavor. It will test your patience and sticktoitness. Consider ignoring the Becket numbers and collecting / sorting by team, and then alphabetically. That's how the cards were sorted by kids a hundred years ago, and also by the early collectors. Maybe pick a team and try to complete that team. That way to can attain several successes / milestones as you journey toward completion. Storage of slabbed cards can be a pain, when compared to natural cards. And, you can gather more natural cards than you can slabbed cards with the same amount of money; so going natural can get you farther along quicker. Even if you chase the natural cards you may well find yourself occasionally getting a graded card because you can find it while there's no such natural card to be found. Then, do you break it out? I do much of the time. Or do you leave it slabbed? I still have a few that I've yet to liberate. Most collectors never break out a graded card. A good aspect of gathering natural cards is that you can sort a team by series, and see the evolution of the series, the changes in uniforms, and poses. Easy to see with cards side by side. Not so easy when cards are in slabs. If you're going to sell the cards in a few years, then you maybe should lean toward graded cards. If you're going to keep them a while, it shouldn't matter. Learn to spot trimmed cards. You need to reach a point where you can discern them even in an eBay photo. Even if you're ok with them being in your collection, you should still be aware of what they are. High quality natural cards are a bit of a pain, you don't want to handle them so much that they acquire dings and lose value. A G to VG natural card, with good color and registration, is a joy to hold. So think about acquiring cards in a way so that you can have occasional success points. Keep a list of the cards, date the acquisition and giving it a number. It's neat to see how long it takes you to get half of the cards, 300 cards, then 400, then 450, then 500. I think I got to 513 different fronts before I sold a bunch... Maybe ignore all of that, and only collect Polar Bear cards... especially if that's what you want to collect!!! Wish you well with it. |
#8
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How does one put together a t206 set?
With patience and cash. |
#9
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How does one put together a t206 set?
"Practice, baby.....Practice." ![]()
__________________
___________________ T206 Master Set:103/524 T206 HOFers: 22/76 T206 SLers: 11/48 T206 Back Run: 28/39 Desiderata You are a child of the universe, no less than the trees and the stars; you have a right to be here. And whether or not it is clear to you, no doubt the universe is unfolding as it should. With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Strive to be happy. |
#10
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I've been told it is like eating an elephant; one bite at a time.
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#11
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I had a good start when I embarked...I had bought a lot of 100+ lower grade cards for $100 in the 80s. I had at one time had a goal of having one contemporaneous card of each hall of famer and the T206 set fit nicely with that so I was probably half way there when I started. I started with the goal of having only one pose of each player in the set and settling for any full card and I just started checking them off. Next thing you know I had decided to go with all the 518...and then I picked up a low grade Demmitt St. L. A little at a time, I clicked them off. Had a couple of large trades with Marc and one with Teddy Z. My set is now technically low grade but overall pleasing and I continue to upgrade a little at a time. It is a relationship set...the only set that I have found that I will take out and look through again and again. I expect I have about $15K in mine (thanks in large part to my head start which included a Cobb, a couple Mattys and probably 200 others.
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#12
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There have been a bunch of threads like this in the last few years (and when I joined, I started my own just like this). Using the search function will turn up some really good advice. I've given some long, drawn out answers before, but will keep this one short.
I think it's really important to either: 1. Have $20k sitting around to spend (or large monthly budget) 2. Work on it in phases. When I started with a small budget and no focus, it just felt like I wasn't getting anywhere. I'd spend like $250 on a group of say 15 commons, and then my budget was gone for the month, and I was still 430 (or whatever large number) away from completion. I would break it into smaller projects so that you can feel some satisfaction of completing them. That could be teams, series, or subsets like portraits, HOFers, SLers etc. I gave up after awhile because it just was taking way too long, and really wasn't that much fun. Now I just collect the cards I like. I think someday I may go for 520, but I have no plans to at the moment. The best advice I got when I started was to get the HOFers first. That way, if you decide to sell them, it will be easy and you won't be stuck with a bunch of commons. Go into it expecting that your preferences may change. I have changed direction a half dozen times in the last 5 years. But I still love the set, and I'm buying more than ever. Good luck.
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ThatT206Life.com |
#13
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When I started about 5 years ago I was going for 150 subject backs only . That was my way of biting a smaller chunk. Then the monster tried to get me to quit and I sold those. When I started again I went with Luke's method and collected only hofers . That method stuck and once I got nearly all the hofers , something clicked and I decidecd to go for the set. Even though I was pretty obsessed and collecting lower grade, it still took about 2 years between getting the hofers and reaching 519 then another year to the day to score an Ohara stl that fit.
its been over a year since I hit 520 and am still improving. |
#14
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Starting a T206 set is easy...stopping is the hard part!
![]() Condition, backs, graded or ungraded the choice is yours. The only advice I have for you is to buy the HOFers or SLers first, that way if you change your mind and decide not to complete the set, its easier to sell off those cards than commons. Hope this helps Jantz |
#15
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I am very close to finishing a decent graded set. I'd suggest you spend some time up front and decide what quality you want when you're done. It is not an easy task. I did graded with the focus on PSA 5s. It has not been easy. You will find that there are many common cards that are not easy to find. It takes patience and persistence. I would imagine raw would be easier. Whatever approach you choose, enjoy, have fun. Remember the fun is in the pursuit.
Regardless of the whether you go for HOFers or Southern Leaguers or any other subset first, I'd strongly suggest deciding the grade first. Upgrading is expensive! Last edited by mansco; 01-11-2015 at 08:52 PM. |
#16
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be prepared to take your time for a long and interesting journey.
I started in '83 and 'tamed' the monster in '07. I found myself doing a lot of research along the way which made the hobby so much more fascinating than simply looking for deals,etc. wishing you the best for the next couple of decades. also, Frank W. it is great to see you back on board. It has been far too long. best, barry |
#17
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My T206 advice is to forget about the whole set. You can read about it and see scans of them every day here or on eBay.
![]() Although I kinda agree that if you do collect them to get the HoFers first in case you get bored or change your mind on collecting the whole thing...it seems that by doing that you've already consigned to the fact that you might not want the whole set. One question you need to answer is...do I really want a full T206 set that has 400 commons or do I just want the famous players? I think that's one reason the Monster bites. It costs money to buy Glenn Liebhardt and a Chappy Charles. Once you have those two you still need Billy Purtell and Tom Downey. (Repeat~100 times) It's not a set for the impatient unless you are very wealthy...then you don't have to be patient. Since I am not a t206 collector, perhaps I shouldn't have detailed out my negative viewpoint , since the set sure has it's fanatics. I appreciate fanaticism with whatever one chooses to collect, since it's all good! I'm sure you'll consider the advice on the board and do what is best for your enjoyment! Welcome aboard! I do want to also welcome Frank W back to posting. I hope to "see" you on the board some more!
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Thanks! Brian L Familytoad Ridgefield, WA Hall of Fame collector. Prewar Set collector. Topps Era collector. 1971 Topps Football collector. |
#18
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Brian makes a great point. I'm sure some people are excited by getting Chappy Charles and Billy Purtell, etc. But for me it was tough to see someone selling a cool card like an e90-1 Sam Crawford for like $250, and I didn't have any money because I just bought a lot of common players I had never heard of. This is the main reason I think I may never go after the whole set. I don't get much of a thrill when a Bill Sweeney card shows up in the mail.
Brian, send me that email about the e95s!
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ThatT206Life.com |
#19
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There has been a lot of good advice so far. All I want to add is this: if you have a chance for a big card that you really want, get it. it may set your collecting back for a few months or more, but that big card will be the centerpiece of your collection. And you can pick up the commons anytime.
And those big cards are the ones that appreciate in value the most. Good luck, and if you have specific questions, just ask. ![]() |
#20
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First, grab a Honus Wagner card before the price gets out of reach...then...
But seriously, my approach has been to try to get PSA-5s or better and use SMR as a basic price level...most of the time, I've been able to get them under that, but I'm willing to pay reasonable premiums on cards I really want. In that way, I fall prey to the emotion of buying certain cards just because I want them...which is a risky way to proceed. I don't expect to ever complete, even the set minus the big three, for obvious financial constraints but also because I've decided not to go after variations on same poses, like the Cobb and Chance portraits. Nor will I go after cards just because of their backs- I won't concede condition just to get a rare back.
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. "A life is not important except in the impact it has on others lives" - Jackie Robinson “If you have a chance to make life better for others and fail to do so, you are wasting your time on this earth.”- Roberto Clemente Last edited by clydepepper; 01-11-2015 at 10:27 PM. |
#21
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EXACTLY! All these monsters need a few big cards or variations or scrap to differentiate them from the rest!
![]() Those are the cards that are really "chased" put a broadleaf 460 in there, go for the magie.....get a cool ass scrap that is unique and no one else can own.... ![]() you will find yourself addicted all over again! pure fact- T206 hold there value |
#22
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it's been my life long dream/ goal to own a Wagner
![]() I try to get my set so unique, one has to come my way!!PLEASE!! ![]() |
#23
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Hey Johnny,
You are surely one of the most enthusiastic collectors of T206! Now, if someone could assemble an entire set of all players with oddballs, scraps, rarer backs, miscuts and top it off with a Wagner...now you are talking! That would certainly separate the ordinary assemblage of t206 cards from the rest! I'd love to see that...are you almost done ![]() Raymond...funny post !LOL Luke...I still haven't dug out the e95's, but I will!
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Thanks! Brian L Familytoad Ridgefield, WA Hall of Fame collector. Prewar Set collector. Topps Era collector. 1971 Topps Football collector. |
#24
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THANKS SO MUCH!
I started out trying to assemble an entire "error" T206 set at first, but just got obsessed with the scrap ![]() unfortunately, if I am to realize the wagner, I have to trade it all which I don't mind, just have to find the right collector ![]() someone please help! ![]() Mr. owner of the wagner scrap, please consider a trade ![]() |
#25
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__________________
. "A life is not important except in the impact it has on others lives" - Jackie Robinson “If you have a chance to make life better for others and fail to do so, you are wasting your time on this earth.”- Roberto Clemente |
#26
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Thanks a lot for all of your outstanding replies. I read them carefully and will take them to heart. Ive been thinking about it for awhile and think knocking the HOFers out first and focusing on graded cards 3/4/5 with eye appeal will be my way to go.
Thanks again and Happy New Year! |
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