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#1
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Just wondering if among all the set completers if anyone's ultimate goal is to have ALL the Post War cards and have a complete run? I end my run goal at 1990, but I guess everyone would have their own opinion on what they want to collect, but for the sake of my curiosity, say 1952-1979 as outlined in this forum.
I know Al has a complete run through current, and yes, Al is my hero. My ultimate goal IS the complete vintage run although I do not care about variations. Maybe when I am done it might be fun to go back and do that. Also, I do plan on completing a Bowman run when Topps is done. I have started chipping there, but nothing serious. Here are my percentages - 1950's - 31.2% 1960's - 55.8% 1970's - 96.9% Total Topps Post War (1952 - 1979) - 69.3% Would be interested in knowing if there are others out there, and where you are at percentage wise?
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John Otto 1963 Fleer - 1981-90 Fleer/Donruss/Score/Leaf Complete 1953 - 1990 Topps/Bowman Complete 1953-55 Dormand SGC COMPLETE SGC AVG Score - 4.03 1953 Bowman Color - 110/160 69% |
#2
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What grade of card are we talking? VGEX, EX, or better?
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#3
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Just in general really...I think everyone has their own standards based on their own standards. For me personally my goal is everything EX. I have plenty that are NrMT-MT and I have plenty that are VG - VGEX. The latter goes on my "upgrade" lists working towards the goal of EX.
What I like about this site is you have the "collect in any grade" folks and you have the PSA 8-10 guys...and to me ALL of it is pretty cool. I don't collect for investment at all, just pure fun and passion.
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John Otto 1963 Fleer - 1981-90 Fleer/Donruss/Score/Leaf Complete 1953 - 1990 Topps/Bowman Complete 1953-55 Dormand SGC COMPLETE SGC AVG Score - 4.03 1953 Bowman Color - 110/160 69% |
#4
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As for what I'd like to build from '52 Topps forward, I would like to build all of the 50s Topps sets. That being said, '52 will not happen for me. I have a nice mid-grade '53 set, and I am working on '57 now. IF I ever complete '53-'59, I would jump into 1960 and work to about '65. I really do not have much interest past that. |
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#6
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While it would be nice some day to make a run at completing the Topps run.
My pocket can't afford it, so I'm shooting for all Tiger and HoF basic cards and complete sets from 1969.
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Tiger collector Need: E121 Veach arms folded Monster Number 520/520 |
#7
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For a few years, before I got married and had two great kids, I made tremendous progress on my sets and finished the Topps sets from 53 on up. The 53 is my lower grade set at about VG-EX, while the rest of the 50s sets are in EX to EX-MT, the 60s sets are EX-MT to NM and the 70s sets mostly all NM or better.
However, over the last 8 or so years, my progress has been significantly slower (for 3 very important reasons). I am now within about 80 or so cards (all hi #s) on the 52 Topps set(about 105 needed if including all BB/RB cards), I need less than 5 on each the 54 and 55 Bowman sets, and I am about half way on each of the 50-53 Bowman sets. I am in no hurry to finish these sets...I have the time. Going back and collecting all of the variations (or print defects as some like to consider them) for these sets has been my most recent goal, while still picking up a few cards I need for the incomplete sets and upgrading the completed sets round out my current efforts. It is amazing the shift in priorities that a family can bring about. |
#8
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John-- Bob (bobsbbcards) is my personal collector hero. Best post war collection out there. When he says everything between 1948 and 1991, he means everything.
Not a bad bridge player either http://www.cincybridge.com/2012AwardsWinners.html Last edited by ALR-bishop; 08-18-2013 at 07:50 AM. |
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#10
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My goal was topps 52-80.
I actually had all of the 50's sets except 52 and only lacked a few in 57. Plus I had 62, 69 and most of the 70's but I recently gave it up and busted up several. 2 reasons: Realization that 52 was a pipe dream. Mantle is out of reach and no way I could afford $100+ for mangled commons. Couldn't see paying the high price for (my opinion) ugly cards in 61, 63 and 67 I am an all or nothing guy haha
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[FONT="Lucida Sans Unicode"]CampyFan39 |
#11
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Chris....you need to take a closer look
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#12
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My original goal was to complete all Topps sets '51 to '95 onward without regard to most variations. I have most sets completed and am missing perhaps 18 or so '52 high numbers. I have been fairly picky with high numbers trying to pick up most in ex-nm so it has been a long road. I am missing the Saige/Pain variation but have two of four Campos variations. I do not have any mid-series glossy gray back variations and do not intend to pursue. The recent Super Set listed for auction recently did not even mention these as legitimate variations, although I would include thes additional 59 or so cards in the Super Master Set.
Along the way I got sidetracked by questions with the t201 (compete), t200 (missing Cleveland AL), t206 (78%), and t205 (45%) sets. I have also completed the Whiz Bang set, and well on my way towards V100 and V61, and several W sets. I've enjoyed the ride but find my obsessive compulsive nature makes it imperative at I find the answer to small questions which not many people know the answer to and I get sidetracked. Last edited by Zach Wheat; 08-19-2013 at 04:10 PM. |
#13
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" I think there should be something called the Reindeer effect. I do not know exactly what it would be, but someone would say that this is all a tragic result of the Reindeer Effect".... Jack Handy
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#14
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How much $ do you think it would be to complete 1952-1979 Topps Basic Sets with:
1950s in EX 1960s in EXMT 1970-75 in NM 1976-79 in NM+ Last edited by mintacular; 08-19-2013 at 08:29 PM. |
#15
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I went through a similar exercise when adding my sets to my insurance, but generally used the low end of SCD's price range to be conservative. Still had to add in packs and recognized variants. I could never replace what I have for the coverage I have, but would not attempt to do so anyway .
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#16
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However, if you have the time there is a far less costly (and for me, far more fun)way of completing this run of sets. Minus about 80 or so 52 hi#s, when I completed my 52-79 Topps sets I took an approach different than that of building each set card by card. When I would begin a new set to build, I would look to buy as many lots/near sets from that set as possible, all in the grade ranges I was looking to achieve. For me the "fun" was sorting through each of the lots and using them to build, and in most cases, nearly complete a set. This part did take some time, as did the selling of the duplicate and triplicate cards off (in most cases selling these extras as singles at shows or on ebay to maximize the return). The selling of the excess allowed me to cover my costs for building each set. Obviously, there were some cards here and there that I did not receive as part of any of the lots I purchased, so these cards I did subsequently purchase as singles from the excess funds generated by selling off the extras. I repeated this process over about 3 years on each of the 52-75 Topps sets, and minus about 80 hi # cards from the 52 set, they are complete. This did take several thousand dollars at first, but once the process was rolling along, the proceeds from the sales of the extras of one set, covered the purchases of the next set I was working. To be able to begin another set, I would have to complete the process of selling off the extras from the previous set. To answer the question asked, money wise a few thousand dollars and a lot of time the way I did it. As for any collector, the time "invested" in doing this was enjoyable as well as "priceless", so I consider it both the time and money well spent. |
#17
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John Otto 1963 Fleer - 1981-90 Fleer/Donruss/Score/Leaf Complete 1953 - 1990 Topps/Bowman Complete 1953-55 Dormand SGC COMPLETE SGC AVG Score - 4.03 1953 Bowman Color - 110/160 69% |
#18
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I have a complete base Topps run from 1970 to present and currently working on 1953! Down to mostly hi numbers .
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#19
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What made you pick 1953 for you first pre 1970 foray ?
Last edited by ALR-bishop; 08-29-2013 at 06:54 AM. |
#20
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Always lived the look of the set and the first vintage card I ever picked up was #213 Ray Scarborough! Also, if was something different than how I usually do sets, when I finish this one I want to take a break for a bit, sell the rest of what does not fit in the main focus if my collection and go back through and make sure everything I have so far is complete!
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#21
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I suppose I count as a completionist, I plan on eventually finishing all the topps main sets. I'm fairly close on the 1970's, finished with 74, 77-83 and really close on 73 and 75-6 Fairly close on 68-72. The rest I've made a decent start but wouldn't say I'm close at all, maybe 20-25% on most of the mid 60's and a bit better on the older sets, maybe as good as half on a couple.
I don't really work at it, if I see a nice card at a good price I'll probably pick it up. And a small lot I can afford is something I'll go for if it's right there. Oddly the way things happen for me is that if I go to a show looking for something in particular I won't find much that I want. But I usually do find some fun stuff. So I usually describe myself as an opportunist collector. Not really completionist, since I seldom make a serious effort at finishing a set(I usually do once I realize I'm within about 10 cards or so) But also not a type collector since I don't limit myself to only one card from a set. I don't really pursue HOF or rookies, or a particular team, or anything although I have preferences. I haven't really found anyone else that collects that way. Steve B Last edited by steve B; 08-29-2013 at 08:12 AM. Reason: fixed typo |
#22
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Steve---do you have a sign in your front lawn warning your neighbors about your status
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#23
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No, the random projects and other stuff warns them off. Bicycles, a couple bits of antique lawn furniture waiting for when I can get to the sandblasting place, some wood I need to cut into small boards for wood working.....
Some have urban chic, I have urban hick. ![]() Steve B |
#24
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I guess it can be an advantage to be older. In the early 70's, ( I was in my mid-20's) I completed 48-55 Bowman and 52- up Topps (except for high numbers), Post Cereal 61-63, etc. I did that by reselling my duplicates. I can remember selling extra 58-62 sets through the Trader Speaks for $35/set and making money at that.
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#25
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I would love to work the 52 Topps, but I am a school teacher married to a school teacher, so I am never going to convince my wife that we should drop the equivalent of a house into a baseball set. I will settle for 53 Topps up. I am also doing the same for the 56 Topps up for football. I don't have a percentage, but baseball from 1970 to the present is almost complete in Ex-Mint or better, and the football is the same. I am now bouncing around with baseball sets. I am working the 53 Topps (about 20% so far) in Vg/Vg-Ex, 54 Topps (down to Aaron, Banks, and Kaline) in Vg/Vg-Ex, 1956 Topps (20% through), 62 Topps (85% done), 63 Topps (about the same), and 67 Topps (also about the same). I just can't do one set at a time. It drives me nuts. So, working on 8-10 sets keeps me interested, and if a set starts to bore me (like when I can't find cards I need to finish), I can just switch to the others.
Sam
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Actively bouncing aimlessly from set to set trying to accomplish something, but getting nowhere |
#26
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I'm definitely a completist, but my goal is to have a set from every available year back to 1941.
Right now my run goes from 1954 to today with only the 1957 set (4 cards) and 1958 set (43 cards) unfinished. Before those years I have a 1951 Red Back and (mentioned in another thread) I just completed the 1943 M.P. & Co. set. I'll probably work on the 1940's for a while That should keep me occupied 1941 Play Ball 1939-46 Salutation Exhibit 1947 Bond Bread 1948 Bowman 1949 Bowman |
#27
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So, one set per year from 1941 to 2013, and beyond ?. Why 1941 ?
What is your criteria for picking which set for each year ? |
#28
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I arbitrarily picked that year since that's the year the war started.
I wanted a major league set for each year that includes player distribution across the league. I picked 1941 Play Ball over double Headers or Goudey because they just look better There were no sets in 1942 (unless you believe the Play Ball set was re-issued without copyrights in 1942) 1943 had only the MP & Co No major sets were issued in 1944 -1946 so I'm using the Exhibit set to fill that gap. Truth be told I'll probably not include the Gehrig, Rizzo and other 1939 cards since they're real expensive and were issued prior to my parameters. 1947 I could have used either Bond Bread or Tip Top and decided on the easier Bond Bread 1948-49 I went the easy route with Bowman When I get to finishing up the 1950's I'll probably use 1952 Bowman instead of Topps because of the reasonable ability to complete it. I've got the 1955 Bowman set for that year. everything else is Topps. |
#29
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I build the same way...buy lots, keep ex/ex-mt centered cards, selll off extras and keep building. Anyone have recommended sellers? i have had great luck with mickey's sports cards (in CO) for singles, but hit/miss on lots. I have extra lots in 70-76 right now. Finished all my sets 67, 69-90. Need to pick up some new lots to re-energize the chase, been dormant for awhile.
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#30
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im trying the same crazy idea topps run 51- to present just the regular issue from the new stuff. i have from 73 up to like 05 and then i need like 2-3 in the 00's up to 2012. going back i have 51 red-52-53-55-56-57-59-62-69-70-71-72 all started.
i try to get a good deal on a lot of commons and stars and try to put the set together from there. my sets are usually VG+-EX-EX+ ( i hope) or better except for the 52-53 their all over the place. just have the low numbers started right now on these 2, but i hope to get to the hi's sooner or later. having all of these sets started gives me a lot of years to collect. i too try to sell off my doubles but find it hard to part with them. now i'm looking to be more intent on getting rid of cards i no longer want or need. gotta do something with all this stuff. i am down under 20 on a couple of sets and some are real nice so i only fill the holes with cards that are equal in condition (55-56-57). i got good deals on the starts (very sharp cards) of these sets and didnt think it through, now i want those same real nice cards for the set and they are a lot more $$. oh well i guess i have time. i have doubles of the 50's sets if anyone is interested in trading. i also have done well with mickey's cards top notch seller IMO. good luck |
#31
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I really don't think I'll ever get there. I have 1976-present Topps sets. 1980-present just because 1980 was the first year I got cards(my grandfather started buying them for me and I just loved them), and the prior years because they were not expensive. 1974 and 1975 aren't really expensive either and I'll eventually get those. I am almost complete on a 1960 Topps set. When I finish that I was thinking 1969 or 1956. I'm willing to go down to ExMt for 1959-1972. And then down to Ex for 57-58, and Vg-Ex for 1953-1956....assuming I ever get there. Those mid 50's cards are so big that they look really nice, even with slightly rounded corners.
Well see though. I don't think I'll ever really get this all done. Some of those 1960's sets are kinda tough to do in ExMt or better in the high numbers. And the Mantle cards are pricey and problematic if not TPG. |
#32
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Good luck in your quest John. Maybe for years that appear too daunting you could do all the Dodger cards
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#33
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Yep, I did the silly quest too..
1953 through 1980 though, none of the newer ones which just don't interest me much(although I had a zillion of the late 80's-90's like everybody else ![]() I need 583 more, with several completed sets. I have finished: 1953 1955 1960 1962 1970 1972 1973 1974 1977 1978 1979 1980 I need mostly high numbers in those damn unfinished 60's. I collect any grade, and rarely upgrade but for the totally destroyed ones. I have spread it out pretty nicely though, as I have over 80% of every set , and down to just a single card in 1959(Yankees tm) and 1965 (Niekro). I'd love to find low grade 61 ,66 and 67 high numbers for reasonable prices. I'd love to grab a few of the 54 and 58 commons I need too...they aren't hard to find but I don't spend much time on this quest with my prewar addiction ![]()
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Thanks! Brian L Familytoad Ridgefield, WA Hall of Fame collector. Prewar Set collector. Topps Era collector. 1971 Topps Football collector. |
#34
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I have been working on the Topps run (1951 - 1972, no interest in anything past that year), and am within about 53 cards of completion. However, I decided that the 1952 set ended at 310, and unless the girlfriend wins the lottery, I won't change my mind.
I also am working on the early Bowman run (1948 - 1955) and am within about 125 of that goal, 2/3 of those being 1949s, many still easy commons. I don't expect to ever completely finish this run, due to the early Robinson and Mantles, but it's fun and they are beautiful cards anyway, even in lower grades. And I do collect the lower grades, because I am a collector, not an investor, or otherwise wealthy lad. I have, for better or worse, become variation-addicted, and have found hundreds, perhaps thousands, of them by searching through boxes at shows and online. This pursuit will certainly continue until I am too old to fit a card in a pocket, as I am discovering new variations all the time. This makes card shows endlessly entertaining and fruitful, even now that my wantlists are becoming tough just as the wallet becomes thin. There are still many variations to be found that most dealers are unaware of, so "bargains" can be found by the diligent. I have tried to assemble a kind of master list of variations (including errors and whatever) and the list can be seen at my webpage https://sites.google.com/site/richarddingmancards/home ... just scroll to the bottom and click on the appropriate link. Great thread, best of luck to all, and hopefully we can help each other accomplish our various goals! Richard D OBC, VCT, OCT, Dugout |
#35
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Your lists are a great resource Richard. I have printed copies of many of them. I collect variants with my sets as well, and they are proliferating, especially with the internet and better scans which make even finding them on line in the absence of shows easier. But shows do make finding back variants easier, and alas there are few of them in South Texas.
To me the issue has become choosing between the many minor print defects that exist in all sets, and variants which in some way rise to a collectible level because they may warrant or eventually garner broader hobby recognition. I have a lot of what I view as only minor print defects as opposed to true variations in my sets. But, some print defects, for example the 57 Bakep, the 58 Herrer, and now the 61 Fairly have achieved widespread hobby recognition I hope your girlfriend hits the lottery...and she likes you enough to invest in 52 high numbers for you ![]() |
#36
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I guess you would say that I am a completionist. Although my main focus is Cardinals team sets, my secondary focus is on Topps base and traded sets.
Currently I have completed 2013 Topps down to 1969 Topps. At one time I got a pretty good start on a 1952 Topps, but it was getting very expensive very quickly, so that one is on hold indefinitely. I have decided to go in reverse order. Right now, I have the 1968 Topps set about 75% complete. I go at these complete sets a little at a time. I will probably have the 1968 Topps set completed by the summer. I do exactly what another poster said - I buy large lots and the sell off the duplicates in order to fund the next set. I pretty much got my 1969 for nothing. On vintage sets, I do not worry about condition. My 1969 Topps set is in VG to VG-EX. As the sets get newer, the condition gets better. My 1970 and 1971 sets average about EX to EXMT...I think you get the picture. Once I have to start getting those expensive Mantle cards, low grade won't bother me at all. Last edited by frankhardy; 12-30-2013 at 07:12 PM. |
#37
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1947 BOND BREAD
1948 BOWMAN 1949 LEAF 1949 BOWMAN (regular set) 1949 BOWMAN (PCL) 1950 BOWMAN 1951 BOWMAN 1952 BOWMAN 1953 BOWMAN 1954 BOWMAN 1955 BOWMAN 1952 TOPPS 1953 TOPPS 1954 TOPPS 1955 TOPPS 1956 TOPPS 1957 TOPPS 1959 FLEER 1959 TOPPS 1960 TOPPS 1963 TOPPS 1964 TOPPS (large card set) 1966 TOPPS 1967 TOPPS 1970 TOPPS 1972 TOPPS (test set) 1973 TOPPS 1974 TOPPS 1975 TOPPS 1976 TOPPS 1977 TOPPS 1978 TOPPS 1979 TOPPS 1980 TOPPS 1981 TOPPS 1982 TOPPS 1983 TOPPS 1984 TOPPS 1985 TOPPS "That's All Folks" TED Z Last edited by tedzan; 12-30-2013 at 08:50 PM. |
#38
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Any post war completionists looking to adopt a son???
I promise to take good care of the cards for you. ![]() |
#39
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Hello, my name is Doug, and I am a completionist.
By my count (and do do not claim to be correct, or definitive) there are : 30,610 Topps regular issue baseball cards from 1952 thru 1992. I have 30,506 of them, and 91 of the missing cards are 1982 blackless, which I struggle with because they are arguable just glorified print dots. 12,452 Topps baseball inserts. My number is low, because I do not count sets that are virtually impossible (or crazy expensive), like the Hocus Focus & 1961 Dice, 1968 Plaqs, etc). Of those that I count, I have 12,334. Some of the inserts I need may not actually exist (1964 Tatoos Mazeroski RED back, Torre YELLOW back) but the chase is better than the catch, right? Even when you're searching for phantoms. My numbers are forever evolving as new variations are discovered that I consider worthy. I think Al probably has dozens of them that he lets out slowly to torment me. Hope you all had a great new year, even though it's a stupid holiday (woohoo, it's tomorrow!!". Take care, Doug |
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