![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Hi all. I have a question. If only interested in low grade cards (e.g., can only afford them, care more about the history than condition), what do you look for?
I know this is completely subjective but since I have seen so few vintage cards in person I would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks! Last edited by Pythonfactory; 12-06-2012 at 07:39 PM. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Good question. I think my favorite lower condition (that is mainly what I collect) cards are ones with nice looking fronts and damage on blank backs (or in blank areas). That way you get the look without the price, usually. Nice question right out of the chute!!
![]()
__________________
Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
It really can vary. I always enjoy nice centering, but that is not my main concern. I try to stay away from paper loss, but when it is minimal, I do not mind it. Rounded corners, in my opinion, are fine, as long as they aren't too severe. It really depends on the collector, and what appeals to him/her.
Best regards, Wazoo
__________________
T206 Collection Completion: 130/524 Hall of Fame T206's: ?/76 Back Run: 30/37 (81% Complete) Schlei (Catching) Back run: 10/12 (minus blank back) Actively collecting t206 Hall of Famers, Southern Leaguers, and Various backs in good to excellent condition. Love talking cards too. |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Cheap price.
: ) I dislike creases and pl on the front. Next is decent registration and overall clean looking. Corners aren't a big concern.
__________________
T206 gallery |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
When buying low grade cards, I look for nice centered and evenly worn cards that are clean of marks and have even wear on all four corners.
__________________
Ron - Uncle Nacki T206 Master Monster Front/Back Set Collector - www.youtube.com/unclenacki T206 Basic "The Monster" Set 514/524 T206 Advanced "Master Monster" Front/Back Set ?? ![]() COMPLETE T206 BACK SUBSETS Old Mill Southern Leagues - Black Ink 48/48 Sweet Caporal 350-460 Factory 30 Full Color "No Prints" 28/28 NEAR COMPLETE T206 BACK SUBSETS Polar Bear 245/250 Sovereign 460 50/52 Sweet Caporal 150 Factory 649 Overprint 31/34 Piedmont 350 "Elite 11" 9/11 |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
No paper loss, pieces missing, pin holes, writing, trimming or rips.
Corners, edges and staining are no problem. Overall color/brightness and registration have become my most important qualities in determining eye appeal for my cards. Centering usually has to be 0/100 to bother me. |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Cards that have received a low grade from a TPG (third-party grader) but that still look nice. There was an N167 Ewing posted recently that got hit by the grader because of slight scrapbook gum on the back. I just picked up a 1914 Cracker Jack that graded a poor because of I'm not sure what exactly. There are lots like that out there, in almost every set.
As Leon said, cards with a little damage or glue on blank backs are great buys. Check out the grades on lots of Old Judge N172s and you'll see what I mean; beautiful images with a little glue or writing on the back get clobbered. But most of all, collect what you enjoy! Get a few cards in hand and you'll see soon enough what bugs you and what doesn't. Bill |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
For me, a clean and fairly well centered front with sharp registration and bold, unfaded colors is key. Paper loss on the back (as well as writing, print spots, or other, "marks," which I simply do not mind...it gives the card a modicum of character, in my humble opinion) or corner wear do not bother me nearly as much.
If the TPGs lower the card's grade for the aforementioned reasons, and I can pick it up on my current budget, I am a much more interested buyer. Best Regards, Eric
__________________
Eric Perry Currently collecting: T206 (135/524) 1956 Topps Baseball (195/342) "You can observe a lot by just watching." - Yogi Berra |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Quote:
Other than that for me centering is also great for overall appeal but can't say I'm not guilty of buying 20/80 or so if I like the card. |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I actually go out of my way to look for low graded cards. Here are a few of my favorites. All were busted out of slabs marked 1s, 2s and 3s ...
|
#11
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I agree with Leon. I'm ok with paper loss on the back if the front is centered and has good color.
|
#12
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Centering and registration top my list. I like to avoid creases but light corner wrinkles are ok. This card is a perfect example for me. Centered with great color and registration. The light corner wrinkle does not bother me at all.
![]() |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I really get freaked out by centering and creases.
![]()
__________________
N300: 11/48 T206: 175/524 E95: 24/25 E106: 4/48 E210-1: Completed December 2013 R319: 43/240 |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
1st you would be shocked what you can actually find even when a card is a low grade.
2ed - i personally try and get a PSA/SGC 2 or higher (in my budgt) AND some are in real nice shape. Figure a % you are willing to pay compared to "retal" AND add extra for a more rare card, or a personal fav, etc. BE PATIENT, take your time and look at many, you will find your "budget" per card, as well as the grade. IMO there are some real nice ones out there, not every PSA 3 is the same. Some are alot better than others.
__________________
Successful transactions with: Drumback, Mart8081, Obcmac, Tonyo, markf31, gnaz01, rainier2004, EASE, Bobsbats, Craig M, TistaT202, Seiklis, Kenny Cole, T's please, Vic, marcdelpercio, poorlydrawncat, brianp-beme, mybuddyinc, Glchen, chernieto , old-baseball , Donscards, Centauri, AddieJoss, T2069bk,206fix, joe v, smokelessjoe, eggoman, botn, canjond Looking for T205's or anything Babe Ruth...email or PM me if you have any to sell. |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Very true!
__________________
N300: 11/48 T206: 175/524 E95: 24/25 E106: 4/48 E210-1: Completed December 2013 R319: 43/240 |
#16
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
A Face or a Name for identification. If both are present, consider waiving the Back.
![]()
__________________
RAUCOUS SPORTS CARD FORUM MEMBER AND MONSTER FATHER. GOOD FOR THE HOBBY AND THE FORUM WITH A VAULT IN AN UNDISCLOSED LOCATION FILLED WITH WORTHLESS NON-FUNGIBLES 274/1000 Monster Number Last edited by frankbmd; 05-05-2016 at 08:57 AM. |
#17
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I would buy 2.5s all day long if they looked like the Wagner on the right!
Being the owner of both of these cards, when I decide to sell/trade off my duplicate, I will be keeping the 2.5 for my collection. I guess the graders were having a bad day when the graded both of these cards. Look at the flip on the "left" Wagner So to answer your question Pythonfactory, I guess I look at the overall condition of the card when it comes to buying low grade cards and not the holder/number. Its been said so many times on this board..."Buy the card, not the holder" Hope this helps & good question Jantz Last edited by Jantz; 02-07-2013 at 10:01 PM. |
#18
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I definitely get the "buy the card, not the holder" mantra but you have to make some sacrifices by buying lower grade. Thanks for all the insight everyone; I'll probably have to figure out what makes my eyes sore the hard way
![]() Another question: I have seen several of you mention 'registration'. What does that mean in context of card appearance? Thanks! |
#19
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I believe registration means : how sharp is the actual image? (is it "in focus") do the colors overlay the way they were intended?
Personally, centering is probably most important to me. It doesn't have to be perfect, but I like to see all four borders and have them all similar width. I don't mind creases just so they don't break the paper on the front, I can even live with creases that break the paper, just not in any "important" places like the face or the details of the uniform. I like to be able to read the back, so paper loss - or anything that makes it illegible - on the back sometimes chases me away. Although sometimes writing or stamps on the back actually adds to the appeal for me. If the colors appear faded or the card is especially dirty, that will make me pass in most cases as well. I also relax my standards a bit for the more difficult cards. Everything is relative to personal taste and budget. Folks showing 3's 3.5's, and even 2's as low grade are good examples of that. I don't have many pre-war cards in my collection that grade that high! In fact, I've bought some 4's and 5's before and end up selling them because they just don't look right amongst my others. Last edited by tonyo; 12-07-2012 at 05:10 AM. |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I agree with Leon, the paper loss on this one doesn't disturb the Coupon Ad, but the front looks pretty nice.
![]() |
#21
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Back stains are fine by me if the rest of the card pops and in many instances staining on the front is okay as well if it doesn't detract from the image.
A little CrackerJack caramel never hurt anyone! ![]() Overall image is everything!! No mater what the # on some silly flip says. ![]() ![]()
__________________
Tony A. Last edited by 3-2-count; 12-07-2012 at 07:40 AM. |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
i honestly wouldn't consider most of the cards shown in this thread to be low grade. Eye of the beholder.
I put together my t206 set in low grade. My criteria was no missing pieces, not creases across the face. I actually think a T of E card looks more natural with even rounding on the corners, a mild surface crease, etc. I avoid cards with writing...back stamps on my T206s add to their story, though. Here's an example of what I collect and probably mostly what you'll find in my T206 collection. ![]() |
#23
|
||||
|
||||
![]() |
#24
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
some times a pin hole can drop a card instantly to a 1, yet can still be hard to see leaving the card a very presentable card. That is what happened to this 49 Coleman:
![]() ![]() |
#25
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
Nice card. Had I not just picked up a nice one you would have had to pay more for it ![]()
__________________
Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
generically listed, missing parts, trimmed, holes, creases, paper loss. Pretty much any injustice that makes a card affordable, that otherwise wouldn't be.
This photo pretty much explains how much damage I'll accept to get something cheap. Actually, once I got this in hand, it was pretty obvious that it was below even my standards. It makes me laugh though, I love it.. |
#27
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Leon, thanks for staying on the sideline on the Cobb. I thought it would go for a bit more.
|
![]() |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
TIM DUNCAN Graded LOT ( 52 GRADED CARDS ) SGC 96 / Spurs / All 52 Cards Graded ! | DinoPro | Ebay, Auction and other Venues Announcement- B/S/T | 0 | 06-25-2012 05:12 AM |
1200+ Raw & PSA, BGS, SGC Graded Cards for Sale + Many PSA/DNA Auto Encaped Cards! | meatloaf | Ebay, Auction and other Venues Announcement- B/S/T | 0 | 04-21-2012 07:56 AM |
Graded T206's, E90-2, W514, strip cards, and Misc. cards.... | Archive | Ebay, Auction and other Venues Announcement- B/S/T | 0 | 10-13-2008 10:04 AM |
N19 Pirates, Golf Cards, Graded Baseball Cards, Catalogs Ending Monday Night | Archive | Ebay, Auction and other Venues Announcement- B/S/T | 0 | 05-18-2008 10:02 AM |
Graded and non-graded Tattoo Orbits and other cards now on ebay | Archive | Ebay, Auction and other Venues Announcement- B/S/T | 2 | 05-23-2007 08:35 PM |