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#1
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A few questions.
I believe there are reprints/counterfeits. How is possible to distinguish between the reprints/counterfeits and the authentic? How was the autograph version distributed? I have read three different ways. As a redemption, in packs, and as part of a promotional program that I do not recall the name of now. I am chasing these cards if anyone has one available. |
#2
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It was my understanding that both varieties were pack pulled only, but I’m not an expert.
I actually pulled one of the non-auto versions from a jumbo pack on clearance sale back in 2013. Sold it for about $150, which was a good price at the time. Should have held but oh well! Used the money to buy a Babe Ruth bat card which I still have and enjoy. As far as counterfeits, yes I have seen many listed. If buying online I think buying a graded one is the safest way….especially for the auto version. I feel like the auto version is the one counterfeited the most. If you can find a reputable online dealer you might be ok buying raw. Otherwise if you can see one in hand, look at it closely with a loupe, compare the ink and dot patterns with some legit 2012 commons, and use common sense. They are rare but still come up for sale regularly. |
#3
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#4
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In theory, yes. All grading companies make mistakes, but PSA should be able to detect the fakes and not slab them. When buying a high dollar, commonly faked card online there is a MUCH higher likelihood that a graded card is authentic than a raw one. You can definitely find real, raw 2012 661 A Harper’s out there. But if you are going to be paying $500 to $1000 for a baseball card, the added protection of buying a graded card is worth it in my opinion. And it will have a better resale value if you decide to sell down the road. If you decide to buy raw, just make sure it’s from a reputable seller. |
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