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Been tossing the idea around of getting a nice Jackie, Ted Williams or bigger name card like that. And I now have some money from a recent card show that I can spend on a card like this. But I'm not sure where to start.
If you were to start a vintage collection with a Jackie, Mays, Mantle, Williams, Aaron type card and NOT break the bank, where would you start? I'm talking $500 or less. I prefer raw in Ex-Mt to NM condition, but I wouldn't be against a graded card since it's a bigger name. Let me know what you'd start with. Or if you were to go a different direction, which direction would you go? Just trying to start a nice conversation and figure out which way I want to go. I'd like to get a nice centerpiece to a vintage collection in the form of one of the big names (Williams, Mays, Aaron, Mantle, Jackie).
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Anyone on Twitter? Here's my new handle @1millionrangers I have done deals with: snowman, exhibitman, roquan, vintagetoppscards, bobsbbcards, sayitaintso, tsp06, gorditadogg, 4reals, bnorth, clydepepper, jcfowler6, jimmer77, tsp06, Bartholomew_Bump_Bailey, swk473 plus others. Last edited by wdwfan; 05-29-2023 at 08:37 PM. |
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#3
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Hey Ben, thanks for the tip. I didn't know about that set, but I will check it out. Maybe a set I decide to chase depending on who all is in it, etc. I knew about Topps, but I didn't think Fleer started until 1960. So I learned something new. I'd prefer, though, something from their playing days.
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Anyone on Twitter? Here's my new handle @1millionrangers I have done deals with: snowman, exhibitman, roquan, vintagetoppscards, bobsbbcards, sayitaintso, tsp06, gorditadogg, 4reals, bnorth, clydepepper, jcfowler6, jimmer77, tsp06, Bartholomew_Bump_Bailey, swk473 plus others. |
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Ted was still playing in 59 so they are from his playing days. Last edited by bnorth; 05-30-2023 at 11:40 AM. |
#5
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Can’t speak to all of the players you’re looking at specifically, but I can tell you that one strategy for Mays is to focus on his later playing years. With some years the print runs were higher and/or the print quality was better, or they are just plain underloved, so the prices aren’t so outrageous.
For Mays, Topps 67-69, or 72 tend to be your best bets. Another option is to pick a non mainstream issue with large print runs that you enjoy visually. For Mays, this might include stuff like: 1955 All American Sports Club 1955 Golden Stamps 1958 Hires Root Beer 1960 Armour Coins 1961 Chemstrand 1961 Nu-Card Baseball Scoops Any of the various Topps Stamps issues Pick an exhibit or coin from any of the issuers during the 60s or 70s Any of the various team issues from the 60s or 70s 1967 Topps Who Am I? 1968 Topps Game Any of the Topps Supers Issues Any of the Milton Bradley issues Any of the Kellogg’s Issues Or even 1963 Fleer! And if you’re willing to dip into the all star, league leader, or multiplayer cards then often those aren’t difficult to find at your desired price and quality either.
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Trying to wrap up my master mays set, with just a few left: 1968 American Oil left side 1971 Bazooka numbered complete panel Last edited by raulus; 05-30-2023 at 08:56 AM. |
#6
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If you're looking for Jackie or a Williams, a nice Exhibit is probably the best option from their playing days that meets your budget/grade criteria. Base playing-days Topps cards in EX+ grade will likely exceed your budget limits. There are plenty of late career Aaron and Mays cards that would fit the bill; personally I'm a fan of the 1972 Topps design, and they're within your budget up to PSA 8 condition. 1964 Topps Giants would be a great choice for Mays, Aaron and Mantle.
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#7
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I am guessing a top shape card is no longer in the $500 range, but I favor the 1956 Topps set and specifically, the Robinson card. Been one of my all-time favorites since I was a kid. Really, any of the players from that set is nice, but that is Robinson's final card as well.
Scan borrowed from ebay...
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Looking for: Unique Steve Garvey items, select Dodgers Postcards & Team Issue photos |
#8
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Decide what direction you want to collect; players, sets, teams, etc. Once, you have decided that, you can then start focusing your efforts. The early Bowman sets are cheaper to obtain (generally) than Topps. A small set to start would be the 48 Bowman, however it does contain a couple of rookie cards that are getting pretty high in price. You can still obtain them in average condition without breaking the bank. The 59 Fleer Ted Williams and the 63 Fleer sets are also relatively small, abundant, and still afforadable.
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#9
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Eric Perry Currently collecting: T206 (135/524) 1956 Topps Baseball (195/342) "You can observe a lot by just watching." - Yogi Berra |
#10
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I would buy a 1955 Bowman. That set is not extremely popular and $500 used to get you a decent card. It's also early in their career, which I would prefer above a 1960s card. Another that was already suggested is 1958 All Star Mantle. That is my favorite Mantle card by a country mile.
Sent from my SM-G9900 using Tapatalk
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Barry Larkin, Joey Votto, Tris Speaker, 1930-45 Cincinnati Reds, T206 Cincinnati Successful deals with: Banksfan14, Brianp-beme, Bumpus Jones, Dacubfan (x5), Dstrawberryfan39, Ed_Hutchinson, Fballguy, fusorcruiser (x2), GoCalBears, Gorditadog, Luke, MikeKam, Moosedog, Nineunder71, Powdered H20, PSU, Ronniehatesjazz, Roarfrom34, Sebie43, Seven, and Wondo |
#11
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Personally, if I was just starting out, I'd stick to Topps' flagship issues. Nothing wrong with Bowman, Fleer, Exhibits, etc, but Topps cards from those years are the standard.
I like the 1958 Mick AS, 1955 Ted Williams and 1965 Mick and Willie cards mentioned above. Find one that is well centered with good registration (printing is sharp). I'd also add the 1962 Aaron and Mays cards. If you are looking for something a little different, then $500 would net you a very nice 1962 Manager's Dream (Mick and Willie) or a 1957 Dodgers' Sluggers (Furillo, Hodges, Campy and Snider). When looking at comps, remember that all cards with the same grade are not created equal, especially as it pertains to eye appeal. Find something that is pleasing to your eyes. And one more thing - If I was not comfortable identifying altered (trimmed, colored, etc) cards from a photo, then I would only buy graded cards if buying on Ebay, and from one of the big TPGs - PSA, SCG, CSG or BVG. If in person, I'd inspect both the card and the dealer. Don't buy anything from Craigslist or FB marketplace.
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Working Sets: Baseball- T206 SLers - Virginia League (-1) 1952 Topps - low numbers (-1) 1953 Topps (-91) 1954 Bowman (-3) 1964 Topps Giants auto'd (-2) Last edited by Bigdaddy; 05-30-2023 at 09:35 PM. |
#12
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At recent Hofstra Long Island show, saw an SGC VG/EX 1957 Topps Ted Williams for low $200's (think $225). The card was centered perfectly and the color was REALLY good (the color on that card is usually dull and drab - often looks like a black and white photo). Seller would have probably accepted $200. I'd look for things like this... inexpensive all-time greats in mid grade PSA/SGC holders with good eye appeal. It's out there. Fun looking for it.
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#13
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Article in today's Sports Collectors Daily on putting together a great vintage collection.
https://www.sportscollectorsdaily.co...863ed-83286472 |
#14
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Thanks for the link. Will check it out. I like how it says slow and steady. Isn't that the truth? Took me 6 months I believe to finish my first 1958 Topps set. I thought I'd never finish the thing. Glad I got it done and was happy with the oucome.
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Anyone on Twitter? Here's my new handle @1millionrangers I have done deals with: snowman, exhibitman, roquan, vintagetoppscards, bobsbbcards, sayitaintso, tsp06, gorditadogg, 4reals, bnorth, clydepepper, jcfowler6, jimmer77, tsp06, Bartholomew_Bump_Bailey, swk473 plus others. |
#15
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Only real way to do it. Have sets I've been working on, off and on, for decades now. Probably never finish some because of the now ridiculous prices being paid for many items, but I've always found more pleasure in the hunt anyway. Good luck and happy collecting.
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#16
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You could get a real nice 1963 Fleer Willie Mays for $500.
My favorite star card on a budget is the 1961 Mantle. You could get a solid one for your budget. |
#17
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Decades? That's nuts. As I said, I took l6-8 months, and I thought I'd never finish. I couldn't imagine it take a year or 2 years. And a decade? I'd give up on it.
__________________
Anyone on Twitter? Here's my new handle @1millionrangers I have done deals with: snowman, exhibitman, roquan, vintagetoppscards, bobsbbcards, sayitaintso, tsp06, gorditadogg, 4reals, bnorth, clydepepper, jcfowler6, jimmer77, tsp06, Bartholomew_Bump_Bailey, swk473 plus others. |
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