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#1
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I apologize in advance, if I seem like a scrub. I haven't collected in years but have grown to want and learn more.
This weekend, the wife and I went to a known garage location that vendors sell all their crap. This one seller seemed to want to get rid of everything and stop the hobby all together, so I took advantage. The list below is by far the best cards I've ever seen card wise / look and feel. 1992 Topps Gold - Set Complete. Paid 10 1990 Leaf - Set Complete. Paid 10 1983 Donruss - Set complete. Paid 10 - growing trend? 1984 Topps - Set Complete 1988 Topps Football Set - Complete 1989 Bowman - Set Complete 1989 Upper Deck - Set Complete - Griffey standing nice and proud (off center but still gorgeous) Also I bought a set of binders, four of them ranging from multiples to singles and sets in them. All below 1990s. One of the biggest pulls was the 1993 Jeter Gold rookie. I only paid 10 bucks for all the binders. I have more, I just havent gone through it all. All in all I spent 290 bucks including the separate singles I rifled through. A pile of Yaz 60-70 cards - all looking gorgeous. Basically sat in a box for 40 years. Every card looks crisp, no broken corners that I can see. My question is, should everything of value be graded? Edit: This gentleman that I met earlier in the day asked if I wanted to see his personal collection. I very much wanted to see everything he owned and was overwhelmed when he said I could have everything 1984-1992. All major brands, all sets completed (not in factory sets, just complete). He offered everything free. I would say close to 500k cards. Thanks in advance! Thanks for adding me! Last edited by amullins; 11-11-2019 at 11:18 AM. |
#2
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Why do you include 'older' gentleman...
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#3
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Good question, I'll edit it.
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#4
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Because he was "older" than the OP. Jake are you at that age that being called older offends you? Don't worry when you get even older it quits bothering most people. I quit getting offended years ago.
![]() To the OP, I doubt there would be more than a few cards that grading would help. I have a whole room full of that stuff, it is super cool to look at but has very little monetary value. Welcome back to the hobby and have fun. ![]() |
#5
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I just see buyers who buy collections from someone's personal collection or sellers on ebay etc say they bought it from an uncle's attic or an old guy sold them a signed ruth. We all know the age doesnt matter on authenticity or value of the product. I would also think cards in the 1980s or 1990s, the seller being 'older' wouldnt matter as well. If someone had a ticket to a game from 1944 and claims he was there in attendance and is selling the ticket, then being 'older' may mean something though... Last edited by 1952boyntoncollector; 11-11-2019 at 12:02 PM. |
#6
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The ones from those years that would be worth grading are normally the Hall of Fame rookie cards (plus a couple of extras) like Mattingly. Expect that if they look perfect to you, they might grade anywhere from PSA 7-10. Most modern cards are only worth grading if they attain a grade of PSA 10. Centering is an issue, so is scratching, so is foil and holograms. Corners are not the only factor. PSA has a page on their website where you can learn about what defects reduce the grade of a card.
Feel free to scan some in (like the 1983 RCs of Boggs, Gwynn, and Sandberg) and we can tell you if it makes monetary sense to pay for grading. Look through the sets for some of the valuable errors/variations (1990 Frank Thomas no name on front, 1991 Topps Oil Can Boyd full ribbon, etc). $10 was a heck of a deal for a complete 1992 Topps Gold set.
__________________
-- PWCC: The Fish Stinks From the Head PSA: Regularly Get Cheated BGS: Can't detect trimming on modern SGC: Closed auto authentication business JSA: Approved same T206 Autos before SGC Oh, what a difference a year makes. |
#7
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COMC is a useful resource to find what few cards might have a little bit of value to take advantage of.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#9
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Topps are $500-$600 each graded PSA 10 Fleer & Donruss are $60-$80 each graded PSA 10 Fleer & Donruss & Topps are $10-$12 each graded PSA 9 ALL can be picked up ungraded for $3-$5 each in very nice condition. So even a rookie card of the great Mr Wade Boggs is a money loss just on grading fees unless it gets a "10". |
#10
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https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...jxub86iFz5A5vf |
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#12
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Or you can get the links (URLs) to the photos and use the yellow mountain picture box to paste the link and have them embedded in your post. The cards are pretty nice. 1984 Topps Mattingly off-centered with a nick on the back. Best it could get is an 8, IMO.
The 1984 Ripken and Gwynn aren't worth grading, probably worth a dollar or less as they are. The 1961 Yaz looks nice. It's the start of a really nice collection for you.
__________________
-- PWCC: The Fish Stinks From the Head PSA: Regularly Get Cheated BGS: Can't detect trimming on modern SGC: Closed auto authentication business JSA: Approved same T206 Autos before SGC Oh, what a difference a year makes. |
#13
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lmk wanna get rid of the jeter gold |
#14
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It’s ungraded.. I want to get it graded most likely, it looks slick.
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#15
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I would highly recommend picking out your 10 nicest cards and sending them in for grading. It will give you an idea of what really is a "slick" card. Unless you understand grading really well most people think cards that really grade a 6 or 7 are perfect.
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#16
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Is their a bulk grading within forums? |
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Every once in a while there is a group submission on this forum. Prepare for it to take MONTHS to get your cards back. I would recommend sending what you believe to be your 10 nicest cards in yourself. It is a learning experience worth every cent. Even better ask the dealer what he would actually pay you for the cards you just bough. |
#18
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#19
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I would definitely send in that Gold Jeter.
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