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#1
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Probably nothing new to the big time veteran bidders at some of these top shelf auction houses...but
Wow, you see a somewhat rare card thatyou need -$ 500-$900 range....with the hammer fees/buyer premium/ whatever they call it....makes a 500 bid...maybe 600..and so on makes you wonder - for example a card you want, that you say...hmm in that shape,rare and all....my bid of 600 is a bit more then its worth..but I " need it " ...you bid.. you win...they tack on another 100.....now you say - great I got the card..but with your overbid and the premium..you say ...wow....How am I ever gonna get my money back on this one some day....never mind trying to make any money on it and if Im not mistaken...if someday you put that same card in a big time auction....your card sells...and they take 10 % of the sell price somebody is making out pretty good ![]() |
#2
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It's best to factor buyer's premium in when making your bid. That way you're not surprised when you get the invoice.
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Successful transactions with peter spaeth, don's cards, vwtdi, wolf441, 111gecko, Clydewally, Jim, SPMIDD, MattyC, jmb, botn, E107collector, begsu1013, and a few others. Last edited by pokerplyr80; 04-12-2019 at 04:59 PM. |
#3
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"How am I ever gonna get my money back on this one some day....never mind trying to make any money on it"
Buy what you enjoy and the return doesn't matter. |
#4
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Jake, is that you?
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"Trolling Ebay right now" © Always looking for signed 1952 topps as well as variations and errors |
#5
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Hmm, I might try that...buy everything I enjoy..don't worry about price, or overpaying..and then don't worry about the return on the cards
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#6
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![]() In this way auction houses have a similarity to casinos: they always win. Sure a bigger bid price brings a bigger take in fees, but since any sale earns consignment fees + buyer premiums, they win no matter what the bid price is. For them it seems as much about volume as anything, so they win the most if there is a lot of buying and re-selling and the same item passing through many hands as often as feasible.... (note: I've certainly done my fair share of "overpaying" for things I "need". I have settled into the perspective of this being an expensive hobby to keep, for myself, and not be concerned with it needing to pay for itself later) |
#7
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I'm a small fish and seldom venture out of the $300-$500 depth of pool. My biggest purchase in an auction was just over $2100. I recall having the exact same thought, "How am I ever going to justify this purchase or recoup the funds"? I realized that if I won the item I actually valued the item more than anyone already. The prospect that the funds could be recouped were then, and are now pretty dismal. This is only compounded by the rarity of the item. Nonetheless, I obviously pulled the trigger despite these factors. I love the pennant and remain extremely pleased that I did. Its collecting not investing in my case.
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1971 Pirates Ticket Quest: 100 of 153 regular season stubs (65%), 14 of 14 1971 ALCS, NLCS , and World Series stubs (100%) If you have any 1971 Pirate regular season game stubs (home or away games) please let me know what have! 1971 Pirates Game used bats Collection 18/18 (100%) |
#8
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Don't be so dire. As discussed on the main board, there is a whole new wave of well-heeled collectors my age continuing to start their own collections.
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-- PWCC: The Fish Stinks From the Head PSA: Regularly Get Cheated BGS: Can't detect trimming on modern SGC: Closed auto authentication business JSA: Approved same T206 Autos before SGC Oh, what a difference a year makes. |
#9
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I’m like Mike above, small fish, but I only buy what I like and can afford (most of the time). I’m not worried at all about resale, but if I needed the money I’m sure I could get something out of the junk I have accumulated. It’s a hobby to me. If you’re looking for profit and/or paypack the I’d purchase much differently then I do now.
Last edited by Mark70Z; 04-13-2019 at 10:39 AM. Reason: Whole msg isn’t posting |
#10
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