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#1
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Hey seller, if I've mortally offended you with my opening offer, just deny it. Message sent. Nice doing business with you. I don't need the passive aggressive bs of waiting 2 days and you never bothering to dignify it with a response. No need to be a jerk about it. Particularly when you've gotten 1000s of feedbacks and obviously sell a great deal, to just never bother responding is just a dick move. But maybe that's the whole point. . . . Had ebay bonus bucks last few days I could have used somewhere else and dealt with another seller. PS. Apologies if you are in a hospital bed somewhere with better things to worry about.
I think a lot of sellers just can't negotiate. Or haven't done it for a living. If you are selling something for 1500 and invite offers, guess what, a first offer of 800 is not insulting. It's a start, and presumably the buyer is prepared to go up. That's how the negotiation process works. I'm not offering someone 1400 out of the box if they tell me they are entertaining offers for a 1500 item. If you only want $1500 don't accept offers and run the auction for the next 40 months. |
#2
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Ditto............ +1
__________________
Lonnie Nagel T206 : 213/520 : 40.65% |
#3
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There was a BIN yesterday for $150. I offered $135. His counteroffer was $150.
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Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
#4
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If I offered 90% of list price and was countered with the list price I would have declined out of principle. Glad to hear you're happy with the purchase and deal though.
__________________
Successful transactions with peter spaeth, don's cards, vwtdi, wolf441, 111gecko, Clydewally, Jim, SPMIDD, MattyC, jmb, botn, E107collector, begsu1013, and a few others. |
#5
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And letting offers expire without a response or counter is a douche move as well.
I hate it when someone has a card for best offer at $1500 and in their mind, their bottom dollar is 1497.50. That is ridiculous and a waste of everyone's time. That being said, I bought a card that was $795 OBO for $305. Seller accepted offer within 20 minutes of offer being made. That's why i still offer. But more times than not, there isn't a lot of room. I also think people get offended a bit too easily. It. Is. Cardboard. And maybe plastic. That's it. It's not like you are selling a kidney. Sheesh. *rant over*
__________________
Seeking Type 1 photos especially Ruth I still love the hobby |
#6
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Enough bitching for one morning. I have guys in Russia I need to communicate with about trading cards. Last edited by Snapolit1; 02-15-2017 at 06:48 AM. |
#7
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#8
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I simply put in to automatically decline an offer below a certain # so I don't have to go back and forth. If you're not even going to offer me at a # to where I know you have serious interest or idea of what the card is worth, you're not even worth my time to respond. Someone who wants to try and cut me in 1/2 right off the bat just pisses me off. That's not a negotiation, that's being a low-baller.
There is definitely an art to negotiation, but the first thing you don't do is insult the person you're trying to negotiate with right off the bat with a stupid offer. Know the market and offer a fair price. Also realize that markets and prices change and what someone bought something for yesterday isn't what you can buy it for today. If we could all do that, we'd all be bazillionaires. |
#9
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If the $1500 item typically sell for close to $1500 and someone makes a lowball offer of $800 I will usually just decline the offer. If the buyer is serious about the item he needs to make a serious offer.
James |
#10
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Sorry, but some offers aren't worthy of a response. For example, I had a card listed at $80 OBO, and received a $2 offer. I'm not taking the time or energy to respond to something like that...And, oh yeah...after the offer expired, the person upped their offer to $2.25...
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#11
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I would have blocked that bidder. That is a BS offer and I would probably let them know what I thought of it in a message too.
Quote:
__________________
Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
#12
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Yeah, I blocked them after the second offer. I didn't send a message though. I know some people can be vindictive, so I didn't want them to use another account to play more games...
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#13
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Seems not bright for a seller to want to take advantage of eBay bucks offers. They subsidize sales for buyers adding 6 to 10 percent cash back which enables buyers to pay more. If sellers don't respond to offers during these sales they're shooting themselves in the foot because a buyer will offer less when there's no ebay cash coming back.
As for Leon's experience, I guess a good deal is still worth it but why make an offer option if you have 0 wiggle room on the price? Seems silly.
__________________
Er1ck.L. ---D381 seeker http://www.flickr.com/photos/30236659@N04/sets/ |
#14
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In his defense I made the offer minutes after it went up and he said so...Not a super great deal but a good one, imo....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201819412584...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Quote:
__________________
Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
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That's makes more sense then. Probably figures if has good interest that quick he had it priced fairly. I know I've had similar experiences though with stuff that's been on ebay a while and seller is not willing to budge. Just makes me wonder why some bother with offer option.
__________________
Er1ck.L. ---D381 seeker http://www.flickr.com/photos/30236659@N04/sets/ |
#16
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If a seller is just allowed to let the offer expire and exercises that option, I understand it, it's the rules of the eBay format. It is different that negotiating at a show or doing business on the phone. In fact, it's what attracts some sellers to eBay. The problem is that the buyers are often more anxious than the sellers.
I have no problem with a seller just allowing one of my offers to expire without further communication. I don't like it, but it's the rules of that game. |
#17
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I might sell a kidney for $2000000 OBO. ![]()
__________________
RAUCOUS SPORTS CARD FORUM MEMBER AND MONSTER FATHER. GOOD FOR THE HOBBY AND THE FORUM WITH A VAULT IN AN UNDISCLOSED LOCATION FILLED WITH WORTHLESS NON-FUNGIBLES 274/1000 Monster Number |
#18
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Sellers just need to set the parameter "Automatically decline offers lower than". If they don't do that, they should respond to all offers, IMO.
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#19
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Frank, I am willing to offer $75 for it if it is still in good condition. Please respond back promptly, as it might be a life or death situation.
Brian |
#20
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Man, maybe I'm just too easy going. Make me an offer. I will outright decline if I think we're too far apart, or I'll counter with my best price. In my message I will TELL YOU it's my BEST PRICE. If you counter again I will decline. That still gives you one more opportunity to match my best price. I am unfailingly polite because, well, it doesn't take any extra effort, but I am also very firm once I have given you my best price. I list about 90% of my items with MAO, and even before the offer my price is usually competitive. If, in order to be competitive, my start price is going to be what I need to get I DON'T USE MAO. If I need $24 on a card I don't list it at $25 with MAO option. More than likely I'll start it at $30 because generally speaking I want to have about 20% wiggle room. Of course there are exceptions in either direction, but none of the issues in this thread strike me as things to lose sleep over, and I do this for a living. Have fun, lighten up, don't take yourself (or anyone else) too seriously!
__________________
Check out https://www.thecollectorconnection.com Always looking for consignments 717.327.8915 We sell your less expensive pre-war cards individually instead of in bulk lots to make YOU the most money possible! and Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/thecollectorconnectionauctions Last edited by Aquarian Sports Cards; 02-15-2017 at 11:41 AM. |
#21
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Would you take $99 on the Kidney?
__________________
Lonnie Nagel T206 : 213/520 : 40.65% |
#22
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LOL, OK I've got one. Had a bunch of items closing last night. I love the guys who make an offer less than 5 minutes before an item closes. Yup, I'm sitting there with my fingers crossed as my items end hoping for some last minute action.
__________________
Check out https://www.thecollectorconnection.com Always looking for consignments 717.327.8915 We sell your less expensive pre-war cards individually instead of in bulk lots to make YOU the most money possible! and Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/thecollectorconnectionauctions |
#23
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In my opinion, without knowing the details, that seems like a pretty low starting point. I doubt it's that the seller is unwilling to negotiate. They probably didn't want to waste their time going back and forth if he felt you were too far apart to begin with to possibly land at a reasonable number for him. Though a simple 'decline' would have been nice.
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#24
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I don't sell much on eBay anymore, but when I used to list a BIN with a BO option, I stated in my description that "All reasonable offers will be considered. Ridiculous offers will be ignored." |
#25
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I agree a ridiculous offer like $2 should be ignored.
But if a card most recently sold for $1200, and you've listed it at $1850, and someone offers $800, that's a reasonable first offer. If no negotiation process was envisioned you'd get one offer and not 3. Last edited by Snapolit1; 02-15-2017 at 08:12 AM. |
#26
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I would assume if someone listed a card for 1800 when the last one sold for 1200 that they would deem an offer of 800 too low and potentially worthy of no response honestly. Just my opinion. Sometimes if you contact them by email and say 800 Direct....that may be worth 900-1000 to them and they may counter you in an email at least.. |
#27
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If the seller shows some actual movement down towards what the market has generally valued the card at I will come up more. Last edited by Snapolit1; 02-15-2017 at 08:28 AM. |
#28
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When you make an offer there is a place where you can put a message. Sometimes you can say 800 'but have some room to move' Sometimes that allows for a better chance of a response. Some buyers quote recent past sales which i know annoy sellers as well |
#29
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you may perceive an offer 1/3 lower than recent sale as reasonable...others may perceive this as a lowball offer.
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#30
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Question: What happens if the seller counters with $1250 and while they're waiting for your response someone else offers $1400. Is there any mechanism that prevents the sale from going through at $1250 at that point? Or can the first "bidder" scoop it up for $1250 while the $1400 offer is sitting there unnoticed?
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#31
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#32
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#33
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I've been getting lots of offers lately, on stuff I DON'T have "Best Offer" on.
Auctions AND Buy It Nows. I usually politely decline, but it does get annoying sometimes and I don't always respond. I understand if you put "Best Offer" in your listings you should respond, or at least set a ceiling to automatically decline an offer. What's the etiquette for responding when you're NOT trolling for lower offers? |
#34
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The same is true with inquiries on the BST. It doesn't hurt to be polite and respond to PMs, even when you see that you are not going to make a deal. I know that it is difficult sometimes when a buyer is telling you that your item is not worth your asking price. It is also hard to be polite when we are busy, or stressed out. I certainly am not perfect in my correspondence with customers, but overall, I believe that successful sales is all about building relationships. Best regards, Joe |
#35
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If you are using the OBO feature and you don't want to bother with the bottom feeders and grinders, set the automatic decline option with a floor below which you don't want to be bothered. If you don't want to hear a $800 offer on a $1500 item, set the floor where you will hear an offer. If you are using the OBO function and you do not set a floor on the item via the auto-decline mechanism you are indicating that you will consider any offer and the proper etiquette is to respond to them all. You are not under any obligation to counter an offer, especially a lowball one, but you should respond. You also have to consider the raw numbers. I completely understand the give and take on an expensive card but if you are going to grind on a $10 card you're an ass-clown and as a seller I don't want to deal with you. Now as to the OP, any offer of less than 50% of the BIN is not realistic if the real value of the item is closer to 75% or more of the BIN. What you are telling the seller is that you are either: --A bottom feeder looking for a stupid seller; --A tire kicker who never makes a deal unless it is as a bottom feeder; or --A grinder who loves to negotiate and will do so endlessly. Sellers do not like dealing with any of those characters. I am not saying the OP is one, just that if you make offers like one, you will be treated as one. I have a love-hate relationship with the 3 strike limit on the OBO function. Sometimes it would be nice to have 5 options to offer but I also understand how a seller doesn't want to spend an inordinate amount of time on a negotiation. Another category of offeror I don't care for is the guy who waits until the listing is over then makes the offer. Make the damned offer while the item is posted, not once it is already gone. Once the listing is over the offer is spam and it should be treated as such. Needless to say, none of the above pertains to people I know, just to the anonymous eBay troll.
__________________
Read my blog; it will make all your dreams come true. https://adamstevenwarshaw.substack.com/ Or not... Last edited by Exhibitman; 02-15-2017 at 10:55 AM. |
#36
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I also believe all inquiries/offers should be responded to with a simple decline at the very least. Stupid offers are just that - stupid. But just end it, and be done.
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy. https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors - Grover Hartley PC - Jim Thome PC - Cleveland Sports Hall of Fame |
#37
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I'm more a memorabilia guy, so if I see an item that I feel is worth say $500, but the seller has a list price of $1200... I'm supposed to offer close to that?? Nope. I'll make a fair offer on THE VALUE, not the ridiculous list price. If the seller is offended... So be it, but that's not my goal. Brent |
#38
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when you purchase something on BIN, you are assured of 'winning' the item and you dont have to worry about being outbid by 5 dollars on ebay. You also dont have to wait months-years for a card to be listed at an auction. The longer you think the card will ever be for sale at an auction the greater BIN market value over auction market value. Its a convenience fee. Some buyers dont understand why the BIN is listed more than the card would go for with PWCC. Well the seller could of listed the card with PWCC as well for 'auction market value' We are all searching for deals where the seller wins on saved seller auction fees and the buyer wins on saving buyers premium but sometimes that margin is just too small for the seller to put a price in that range.. Also sometimes you will see an auction on a card greatly exceed several BIN prices and than BANG, a minute later someone scoops up all the BIN cards such as hank aaron rookie a year ago or so |
#39
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#40
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#41
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If you know what your item is worth, then ask for that much. If you know how much you are willing to accept, then ask for that much. If you want to play games and list at obo, then expect guys to assume that you are flexible or don't know the value of the item (especially when your obo offer is way over vcp). No one wants to bid against themselves, so they are going to start low and work their way up. It is human nature to try to get the best deal possible. Why would I offer you 1300 on a 1500 obo when you MAY accept 1100? I have to at least try it. eBay offers the "auto-decline" option as well, so if you don't want to be insulted by offers, you don't even have to decline them yourself and have to bare witness to the mockery of your treasured item. I never understood guys getting insulted over offers. It's not like you printed the card or have your image on it. It isn't personal. Guys just want to get The best deal possible. If you don't want to haggle or be insulted, set your price and wait for your buyer.
Last edited by orly57; 02-15-2017 at 08:55 AM. |
#42
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http://www.dictionary.com/browse/negotiate |
#43
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#44
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But just throwing in a lowball offer with the mindset that the seller should be a mindreader knowing what you are thinking is quite presumptuous and probably not the best strategy. |
#45
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Pete, I think we can all agree that a total lowball offer is silly and unproductive. My premise is based on offering just under vcp when the seller is way over on his obo price. For example, if the last psa 7 of a particular card sold on pwcc for 1500, but had better registration and centering than this one, is 1200 a lowball offer? There are many variables in this particular argument.
Last edited by orly57; 02-15-2017 at 09:20 AM. |
#46
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#47
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#48
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I was disagreeing with something but nothing in that comment!
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#49
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Sometimes you just have to bite your lip and hit the BIN.... |
#50
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Agree with this.
I just bought a card that was listed at $4999.99 OBO. I offered $4825 out of the gates, and he declined saying that he was likely going to raise the BIN anyway as the card was rapidly appreciating. While this was frustrating, I decided to just pony up on the full amount (instead of starting a thread out of my frustration.) Bottom line is: do you want the card you desire or do you want a hot deal? I find you rarely get both. |
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