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#1
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Myself, if a card is graded a 9.5, I won't buy it unless all subgrades are 9.5 or better. If it has one 9, I won't buy it. I want perfect centering. If not perfectly center, I won't buy it. I tried to overcome both, but it just didn't work. Have you passed up on something you really wanted, because it didn't meet your expectations?
Last edited by SyrNy1960; 03-01-2016 at 04:49 AM. |
#2
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Most of us on this side (pre-wwII) don't collect by 9s and sub-grades as very few of our cards meet that grade level. However, the second part of your question is what collecting is ALL about to a lot of us. It is finding the right card that meets OUR expectations, at a price we are willing to pay. That is almost all the fun for me. And to answer your questions specifically, I pass on cards almost every single day as they don't meet my expectations. This card will be making its way to me very soon as it should ship in a few days. I wouldn't have gone for it had it not had centering, borders and scarcity I look for. I am not focused right now except on cards I like with great centering and borders.....to each their own. And by passing on a lot of stuff it makes the journey longer and better. (to me)
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Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com Last edited by Leon; 03-01-2016 at 08:09 AM. |
#3
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RAUCOUS SPORTS CARD FORUM MEMBER AND MONSTER FATHER. GOOD FOR THE HOBBY AND THE FORUM WITH A VAULT IN AN UNDISCLOSED LOCATION FILLED WITH WORTHLESS NON-FUNGIBLES 274/1000 Monster Number |
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I hope you weren't looking at his pants!!
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Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
#6
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If you don't mind me asking, what is the goal for many (pre-wwII) collectors? Collecting individual cards? Completing sets? Modern day collectors like to collect Star players. Don't believe that is the case for (pre-wwII) collectors (other than the big boys Ruth, Gehrig, etc. etc.). Thanks!
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#7
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I like to collect low grade examples with nicer eye appeal. It allows me to get a card I've always wanted at a price I'm comfortable with and it still looks great. I am not a "grade" guy. I don't even look at high grade pre-war because I either can't afford it or I assume the card was trimmed. I prefer cards that look like they belonged to a kid like me once:
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#8
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#9
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I pass on almost all relic cards now especially non gameused .
Autographs of guys with advanced age (Stan Musial) . One they signed a ton of crap over the years, two it's sloppy the closer they get to the end . Base Rookie cards that are issued after that player already had a rookie . A year or more ago . ( it's a joke ) Vintage I also enjoy collecting cards that have been loved . I don't like completely miscut card . You know when the boarder is only on two sides. Writing on the card is most often a deal breaker ( unless the price is right ) . More then one big crease in the center of the card . I once was in a trade with a guy that had a 1952 bowman mantle . It was missing the back . He also had a 1950 bowman Jackie Robinson missing the front . He kept trying to throw them in the deal . Like hey you can say you own these cards hahahahaah. No I can't half a card is not owning the card . |
#10
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If that were actually true, I'd own a lot less cards than I actually do
![]() My only quirk with collecting is that I will not buy a card that was written on with an attempt to deface it. If someone wants to update the position, denote a team trade, check a checklist, mention someone retired, great. If someone draws a mustache on it, I am not buying it.
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Mantle Master Set - as complete as it is going to get Yankees Game Used Hat Style Run (1923-2017): 57/60 (missing 2008/9 holiday hats & 2017 Players Weekend) |
#11
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Centering, no creases, and good registration is key to me. That being said it's really all about eye appeal not the grade. There's plenty of vintage graded 2's and 3's that look better than 5's.
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#12
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All about registration when it comes to pre war for me. I can deal with bad centering and round corners, but a fuzzy or snowy card is one I avoid.
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Actively bouncing aimlessly from set to set trying to accomplish something, but getting nowhere |
#13
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Mine have morphed over time. I used to be a strict no creases guy, now my focus is more on centering and registration. I suspect they will morph again at some point. I think I speak for a lot of prewar guys when I say I've learned to go more for eye appeal than technical grade.....but overall I've learned to enjoy lower grade cards, which takes a lot of the expense and paranoia out of collecting.
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Items for sale or trade here UPDATED 3-16-18 |
#14
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It's kind of hard to explain the grades I collect. I'm a "I know it when I see it" type of collector. Some times a little crease is not an issue, other times I won't even pick it up to look. With a lot of my OJs I focus on how dark the image is and little back damage. For the rarer pose OJ a light image and back damage is acceptable.
I collect mostly pre war players who spent time on one of the many Columbus teams. Also working on Cincy teams sets of T205, T206, and T207. Just started a photo project to capture the 49 different Yankee/Highlander uniforms from 1903-1945. It seems every few months I shift to focus on one of these areas.
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Current Search: Columbus Solons N172: 2/16 (2nd Pose Team Set) Columbus Solons N173 & Proof Photos: 3/? Pre-1950 Cuban Cards: Focus on Billiken, Macionales, & Aguilitas |
#15
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I'm very big on uniformity. I like my personal collection in SGC slabs, I like my sets in PSA slabs, and since I've started a modern Topps Chrome Auto collection I prefer them to be 9.5 10 with the chip on the front. This OCD has recently caused a dilemma with my signed cards. I previously collected them almost universally with the PSA Blue Flip. Now that PSA has changed their Blue Flip labeling I'm done with that service. Friday I received a shipment of 200 Ultra Pro magnetic one touches. When I finally get the nerve up I guess I'm going to crack all my signed cards out. The positive is I'll probably save ~$750-$1000 in authentication fees a year. The bad news is many of my signed odd ball and pre war won't fit so I'll likely ending up selling them just because. #firstworldproblems
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Always looking for rare Tommy Bridges items. |
#16
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please fwd me any mustache cards! ; )
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#17
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I usually take any card in any condition if I'm working on completing a difficult set and worry about upgrading later. That being said, I hate any writing on cards (mustache's included).
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#18
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I also can relate to the "I know it when I see it" collector as well. Many times a card has just hit me and I gotta have it steps in. |
#19
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My truest "quirk", which I know may be sacrilegious to some, is that I keep a certain number of purchased cards unopened, often waiting for a special day-- a work success, a life occasion, etc-- to open and fully enjoy. I feel it extends my joy period.. there's the initial joy of the hunt when I search for and buy, then a nice little plateau of joy in knowing I've got a treat stashed away, and the final joy of opening and appreciating the card. If it is a high dollar card, I'll often peak just to make sure the correct card shipped (have once or twice caught shipping mistakes by doing this). I know I'm a little crazy in doing this, but it's always worked for me. I also used to hoard a certain number of Christmas presents as a kid, opening some months later, so I guess this is just a continuation of that. |
#20
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Always want cards to go in pages. If something is strange shape, then I must find a page it can go into. If no page can be found, then I probably don't want it. Latest discovery, LJN Talking Baseball 1989 Topps cards fit perfectly into 5 panel postcard pages.
When it comes to card pre-1980, I care little for condition. I have no problem with having cards that are super beat up (resemble phone cards) or have writing on them. That's all I can think of right now. |
#21
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Great question. I have a couple. Although not always, whenever possible I
prefer PSA over SGC and try to purchase all cards from this TPG. I suppose this quirk fits into the category of me liking things all consistent and uniform. I am more of a set collector than a type collector. While condition isn't always the main thing I focus on, referring back to uniformity, I try and stay consistent in purchasing the same grade across the board in any given set I'm working on. For example, my E95 set was assembled with nothing lower than a grade 4. My biggest deal breaker that I absolutely follow without exception however, is that I won't purchase any card with paper loss - front or back. ErikV |
#22
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For me it seems there is no flaw I won't over look if it allows me to acquire a card I like for a low price. Miscut so badly that off center would be a kind description, extensive writing on the card, massive creases, rounded corners and rough edges, even holes in the cards. I have cards with all these flaws and more that I proudly display and show them to anyone that will let me. I love and am very proud of my wrinkled, abused, and dilapidated assortment of cardboard and paper.
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Personal Collection Magic Number: 29 Collecting Hall of Famers and players with Nebraska connections. |
#23
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Successful transactions with peter spaeth, don's cards, vwtdi, wolf441, 111gecko, Clydewally, Jim, SPMIDD, MattyC, jmb, botn, E107collector, begsu1013, and a few others. |
#24
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I am drawn to the artistic quality of certain cards. Realize that is of course entirely subjective. The first card I fell in love with was the 49 Leaf Jackie Robinson. Just took my breath away. Looked like something Warhol would have painted. Love the entire Leaf series for the bold colors. Just leap off the card. Goudeys the same. Just bought a Zach Wheat strip I found on eBay. Amazing colors. Having said all that love many of the older Exhibits which of course are black and white. Those suckers just tell a story. Bought a banged up John McGraw last week and love it. Guy's face looks like a catchers mitt. Some cards just reach out and grab you.
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#25
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I will build and break the exact same set. I am on my third go round of building a Sport Kings set.
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#26
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On the other hand, it seems like a sisyphean task that would cause a lot of regret and frustration. Can I ask why you collect this way?
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Whoever fights monsters should see to it that in the process he does not become a monster. |
#27
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Funny you say that. I told my wife the other day that when I purchase something, I can't wait to get it. Once I get it, I'm pretty much over it after a day or two and then ready for the next chase.
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#28
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For me, it basically translates into having a small, consolidated collection of high-end cards. Which I actually enjoy because it keeps everything small and simple. I just have to constantly ask myself, "Will this be a card I compulsively take out of the box on a regular basis because I can't stop looking at it?". More often than not, the answer is no, even when I really feel like I want it. It makes it pretty much impossible to try and go for a set though. Nowadays if I like a set I usually go for the stars I like or the cards I find particularly attractive.
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Whoever fights monsters should see to it that in the process he does not become a monster. Last edited by poorlydrawncat; 03-02-2016 at 05:39 PM. |
#29
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I have to blame Matty C for this. When he began on his Mickey Mantle run, every card was perfectly centered. The centered cards looked better, to me, than examples technically a grade higher (or more), but with lesser centering. I think that, of all the subgrades, is the one I'm now most picky about. If I buy a Beckett graded card, yes, I want all 9.5 subs. My Bryce Harper Chrome auto is perfect, and it commands a premium. However, my ungraded Mike Trout Chrome auto has a scan line down the middle, and that would likely lower it to 9. Everything else is perfect, and it might still get a 9.5 overall. But the surface grade would bother me. I would literally sell mine, and then buy another with all 9.5 subs. So, I understand where you are coming from. With vintage, centering is really important. I've been working on the 1975 Topps set for a while, and I'll take a PSA 8 with superior centering over an off-centered 9 any day of the week. The '53 Bowman set I am (slowly) working on, centering is much more difficult to deal with. But it's the first thing I look at now. Damn you, Matty C! ![]()
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Building these sets: T206, 1953 Bowman Color, 1975 Topps. Great transactions with: piedmont150, Cardboard Junkie, z28jd, t206blogcom, tinkertoeverstochance, trobba, Texxxx, marcdelpercio, t206hound, zachs, tolstoi, IronHorse 2130, AndyG09, BBT206, jtschantz, lug-nut, leaflover, Abravefan11, mpemulis, btcarfagno, BlueSky, and Frankbmd. |
#30
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I'm like that when I'm buying cards, too, but the ones I want are far more expensive. So, I resist the urge to buy another card right away.
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Building these sets: T206, 1953 Bowman Color, 1975 Topps. Great transactions with: piedmont150, Cardboard Junkie, z28jd, t206blogcom, tinkertoeverstochance, trobba, Texxxx, marcdelpercio, t206hound, zachs, tolstoi, IronHorse 2130, AndyG09, BBT206, jtschantz, lug-nut, leaflover, Abravefan11, mpemulis, btcarfagno, BlueSky, and Frankbmd. |
#31
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#32
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I tend toward single cards, admittedly more post-war thus far. A few things that may be a little quirky.
The cards I like the most now are the ones I wanted as a teenager but couldn't get (1933 Ruth, T206 Dark Cap Matty, Aaron rookie, Jackie's cards). I also like cards that capture little pieces of baseball (or baseball card) history that I find interesting. For instance ... 1915 CJ Branch Rickey (i.e. "before they were famous"), Jimmie Foxx Diamond Stars depicted as a catcher, 1970 Curt Flood depicted on the Phillies, 1954 Bowman Piersall #66, all the guys who desegregated MLB starting their careers in the late 40s, etc. Who knows, but I anticipate keeping all the cards I collect now until I die. Thus, I guess you could say I think of them as assets (I care about their value if I needed to claim insurance or sell them if times got tough) but not as investments. On condition, paper loss is a big problem for me. Beyond that, centering is most important. I find I care more about left-right than top-bottom ... to me left-right has more impact on eye appeal. Also, I guess I'm glad for minor wrinkles and other small flaws that can't be seen from more than a few inches away (at least by me, who has worn glasses his whole life) as they bring cards that I find really attractive into my price range. Thanks for the topic and posts. Good stuff. |
#33
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Oddball issues.
Absolute rarity (few known examples in any grade). Real photo or halftone rather than drawn images. Postwar mainstream is all about reproducing my childhood collection in similar condition. Perfectly pleased with a g-vg early Mantle if that's what I owned back in the day. Boxing, I try for a type of every set produced worldwide and at least one card of every HOFer.
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Read my blog; it will make all your dreams come true. https://adamstevenwarshaw.substack.com/ Or not... Last edited by Exhibitman; 03-03-2016 at 09:50 AM. |
#34
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Not sure. Mental issue I guess. I guess the thrill comes in finding the cards and putting it together for as cheap as I can. Then I want to see how much I can get for it. Once it's gone, I realize how much I like the set and want to build it again. Hey - you asked for quirks!! ![]() |
#35
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Reading, learning and taking your time can't be over emphasized.
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Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
#36
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My only deal breakers are heavy creases and paper loss on the front.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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Tackling the Monster T206 = 213/524 HOFs = 13/76 SLers = 33/48 Horizontals = 6/6 ALWAYS looking for T206 with back damage. |
#37
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Red background on cards.... I don't necessarily mean to get them but I always end up with them...
Red back ground t206's Don't have a red Cobb, go figure |
#38
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Finishing up a high grade 201 set, completed a mid grade 1965 Topps ungraded, toying with a few others. Moved away from the graded card game for obvious reasons after selling my version of the monster. The criminal activity in the hobby is just, for me, unacceptable, to say the least.
So I moved much of my focus to picking up Japanese Menko, none of which are graded and many of which are uncatalogued. Good luck finding stuff pre-war!
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T206 156/518 second time around R312 49/50 1959 Topps 568/572 1958, 1961, 1963, 1964, 1957, 1956… ...whatever I want |
#39
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![]() Unless you're already old...right. If you truly cannot take 'it' with you, then you hope and perhaps strive for more time to enjoy 'it'. I guess I'm just trying to explain some of my less-than-wise purchases, huh? .. I never buy graded cards with qualifiers or cards where the picture looks nothing like the actual player i.e. some American Caramel issues, a lot of 'strip' cards, and the George Miller set. . .
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. "A life is not important except in the impact it has on others lives" - Jackie Robinson “If you have a chance to make life better for others and fail to do so, you are wasting your time on this earth.”- Roberto Clemente Last edited by clydepepper; 03-05-2016 at 04:12 PM. |
#40
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I find I don't like off center cards. I seem to settle for a corner with rounded corners rather than a severely off center card. I keep wanting to get my scissors out to try to center the card. It is an irritating habit.
This actually carries over to the business world as well...I find myself straightening picture frames in other people's offices when I walk by - even if they are only slightly tilted. Annoying habit I know..... Z |
#41
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I'm likely in the minority here, but I personally can't stand high grade cards, probably for a couple different reasons. Number A is I'm lousy at putting numerical grades on cards. I was looking a 5 I had the other day, comparing it to pictures of a 10, and I honestly couldn't tell the difference. Also, if it's for my project, I'd rather have a rough card with a bold signature than the other way around. The beat-up cards also have more character to them; they were handled, put in bike spokes, flipped, won and lost. For all I know, the high grade cards just sat in a shoebox for forty years and never saw the light of day. Then of course there's always my paranoia that the high grade examples are really doctored cards that got by the TPGs.
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Signed 1953 Topps set: 264/274 (96.35 %) |
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