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#1
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Hello all, thanks in advance to anyone who helps. For someone who does not deal in 34 Goudey's, Gehrig reprints, plenty out there I'm sure, and are they easy to spot(like say, the front of card in question's color) ?? I may have access to a front scan that I will add.
Not a scan, but pic of the front only right now. To me, it does not look legit. But I'm basing that only on eBay pics of graded ones, and the color. http://[URL=http://s1329.photobucket.com/user/thedeadmanshanddlr/media/gehriggoudey_zps858aa760.jpg.html] ![]() Last edited by midwaylandscaping; 10-20-2014 at 10:45 AM. Reason: Edit to add pic of front |
#2
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Sorry...that one is a fake.
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#3
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Fake. Also, if he seller thought it was good, he wouldn't have plastic wrap draping across the card like that.
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#4
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Fake
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#5
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David,
Definitely a fake, and I'll show you what I am seeing that made me immediately suspicious. As soon as I saw the back of the card, it sent off red warning lights. Compare the back of this card to a legit copy. ![]() ![]() The first thing that is obvious to me is the bottom of the card's back. Look closely. Compare the card's surface there to the rest of the card back. There's clearly been erasing done on the card's bottom, right where the word "reprint" would appear. The second thing you need to do is look at the spacing of the card being offered. Compare it to the card on the right, the legitimate copy. Look how much extra "white space" there is around the fake card, especially at the bottom. Go online, and look at other examples of the 1934 Goudey Gehrig #61. I only have a couple '34 Goudeys, Luke Appling and Frankie Frisch, and the spacing is the same as the authentic Lou Gehrig back I've posted here for comparative purposes. When you're trying to determine if a card is authentic or not, you want to be looking at these kinds of things-the white space, the typography, any portion of the card surface that exhibits cleaning, erasing, or any other form of alteration. Look at the card's overall condition. A pre-war card should exhibit uniform wear. The corners should generally show the same condition, within reason. Keep looking. There are plenty of other examples of this card out there. I would make it a point to buy from dealers/individuals who have a good reputation. And listen to your instincts, as you've done here. If something seems amiss, ask us to take a look at it for you. Over time, you'll develop your eye. But asking for a second opinion is always wise, imo. Good luck! Bill
__________________
Building these sets: T206, 1953 Bowman Color, 1975 Topps. Great transactions with: piedmont150, Cardboard Junkie, z28jd, t206blogcom, tinkertoeverstochance, trobba, Texxxx, marcdelpercio, t206hound, zachs, tolstoi, IronHorse 2130, AndyG09, BBT206, jtschantz, lug-nut, leaflover, Abravefan11, mpemulis, btcarfagno, BlueSky, and Frankbmd. |
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Bill,
Great explanation. Instead of just telling someone a card is fake, it would help if people gave their reasons why they thought it was. |
#7
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![]() Quote:
![]() I happen to have a lot more free time than the average Net 54 poster, so, I try to make use of that time, and help out whenever I can. If a question like this comes up, I want to provide as much information as possible, not only to help out David, but the other members of our forum that will read this. I really believe that we can make this hobby safer. That is my goal.
__________________
Building these sets: T206, 1953 Bowman Color, 1975 Topps. Great transactions with: piedmont150, Cardboard Junkie, z28jd, t206blogcom, tinkertoeverstochance, trobba, Texxxx, marcdelpercio, t206hound, zachs, tolstoi, IronHorse 2130, AndyG09, BBT206, jtschantz, lug-nut, leaflover, Abravefan11, mpemulis, btcarfagno, BlueSky, and Frankbmd. |
#8
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Bill,
Well keep up the good job. We can all learn something new everyday. |
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