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#1
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So I'm just getting into the HOFers in this set and have what I'm sure is a pretty basic question: when deciding on a purchase, is it better to obtain a card in higher condition or in lower condition with a rarer back? Aesthetically I can go either way, so I'm talking in terms of value down the line and rarity (condition rarity of the higher grade versus overall rarity of the tougher-backed example).
Anyways, was wondering if there's a prevailing view/axiom among collectors, such as, "Always go for the tougher back, etc." Thanks. Matt |
#2
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It seems to me that the thing with so-called condition rarities in common cards is you are relying on:
(1) Maintaining a relative position within a pool of cards creating the rarity [the slabbed pop], one that that can change dramatically as old-school collections and accumulations are liquidated by AHs who will have nice raw cards slabbed; and (2) The judgment of the grading service, which can change over time and might be wrong to start. We've all seen examples of changes in grading standards from PSA. If they suddenly shift again you could be left in the cold holding your ****. With a card that is considered rare regardless of condition at least you have the knowledge that historically very few have surfaced and there will always be a demand for them from specialists. The other thing to consider is personal aesthetic choice. I prefer to have cards that look similar to their brethren. I don't like having a mish-mash of conditions in a given set. So, if you decide on a specific grade or back you may be condemning yourself to either a frustratingly incomplete collection or a collection that isn't aesthetically pleasing.
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Read my blog; it will make all your dreams come true. https://adamstevenwarshaw.substack.com/ Or not... Last edited by Exhibitman; 04-11-2013 at 05:05 PM. |
#3
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Why not both
![]() I like A-4 grade of mid to rarer backs, I'm not really competing agains the registry collectors or those doing a master set. I get to enjoy the different backs and have never concerned myself with their grade. I'm confident I could move any of my cards for what I have in them quite easily.
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T206 gallery |
#4
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I only intend to get one example of each card, and so find myself looking at either a higher graded one with a common back, or a much lower grade example with a tough back.
On one hand I like the image in best condition possible, but on the other I do like the rarity of the card in the rare-backed version. Hence kind of torn. |
#5
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IMHO, if you are putting a set together, consistency of grade is important, whatever that level may be. If you can find a way to include examples at that grade with tougher backs, go for it.
JimB |
#6
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Ultra premium high grades do nothing for me personally. Yes they're nice looking and definitely command high dollars, but I would never pay the premium just for pointy corners. I've always preferred my vintage cards to have a little "aging" to them, not trashed by any means, just some evidence of the years gone by. So in regards to your question, I personally would put a greater value on the ultra rare backs over a high grade as long as the card is presentable with nice eye appeal.
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#7
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Higher grades, common backs....
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#8
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T206 518/518 |
#9
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I go for the best looking cards I can afford. For the same price, I would get the better grade card showing a quality front.
However, the T206 market has so many collectors that a rare back will always get interest and hold its value. If you go for the back, get a really rare back, not just a so-so rare back. |
#10
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#11
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There was the whole ruckus about the recent Old Mill Blue Back T206. Without looking it up I can't even remember who was on the front of that card. I recognize the rarity of the back (If it is legit) but it seems a little strange to me that the color of the add back makes that much difference in value. I had one brown lenox back (Burch fielding) that I traded last fall for a Ton of other T cards loaded with hall of famers. Both of us felt great about the deal. He wanted the rare back and I wanted to acquire a lot of cards I never had. To each his own. Dave.
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#12
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Hey David did you ever get around to scanning your brown Lenox card you found in your album before you traded it? I know a few of us asked you about it a few times. Love to see it if you did.
For me the whole card is what it's about if the card is sharp and has a tougher back that's a bonus. Cheers, John Last edited by wonkaticket; 04-11-2013 at 07:15 PM. |
#13
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#14
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Nobody I know bought the Blue Old Mill but it did sell via H&S...sorry to hear you're feeling bad David.
Here are my Browns...thinking of selling one at auction soon but not sure. ![]() Cheers, John |
#15
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WOW!!
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#16
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Just two are brown, but if your person can make me look like Clooney send her number my way.
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#17
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Well, being a T206 addict who has collected the cards every which way possible over the last 20+ years (high grade, errors, rare backs, HOFers, SLers, etc)...i always come back to rare backs. i just love the various artwork of the different brands, and i love the chase of putting together a nice back run. the tuffer ones are super rare, which makes it a fun journey.
i've seen way too many high-grade examples that look too "short" to my eye, so i steer away from them. i'd only buy high grade cards that have full borders. as Jim B pointed out, either way, it's nice to have consistency in a collection. and most importantly, collect what you like. One final bit of advice...buy the card, not the holder. good luck! Last edited by MVSNYC; 04-11-2013 at 08:47 PM. |
#18
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how about a freak?
![]() Hands down, rare back....hands down ![]() |
#19
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I'm also building a set in VG TO VG-EX and also decided to try to find at least one good example of each back if I can. I know I might only get a low grade Drum, lenox or Broadleaf, but that I might pull a couple PSA 5 EPDG, Sovereign, or Polar Bears to keep my overall set grade up. I also decided to try to collect all of the SLs in Old Mill backs. If it was my perfect set I'd have an even distribution of each back, but that's not going to happen unless I hit the lottery. I guess to each their own, but I like the idea of my set really demonstrating the variety within the set and going higher grade/common back really fails to do that. I try to collect T206s, not just Piedmont and Sweet Caps.
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N300: 11/48 T206: 175/524 E95: 24/25 E106: 4/48 E210-1: Completed December 2013 R319: 43/240 Last edited by AMBST95; 04-11-2013 at 09:32 PM. |
#20
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If you aren't going to collect the whole set, (remember the monster usually wins
![]() Get the nicest ones you can, because in 20-30-40 years, your potential buyers will know who Walter Johnson, Cy Young, Nap Lajoie and Ty Cobb are...but Chappy Charles may not be appealing to anyone no matter what the extinct tobacco brand he's advertising says... And now I realize you already mentioned that you were looking at HoFers...I don't collect T206 because there are too many commons for my taste, and you cannot read the back to get any information about the players. (i grew up memorizing Topps cards) So I revise my answer to higher grade common backs , of HOFers ![]()
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Thanks! Brian L Familytoad Ridgefield, WA Hall of Fame collector. Prewar Set collector. Topps Era collector. 1971 Topps Football collector. Last edited by familytoad; 04-11-2013 at 09:44 PM. Reason: Op already mentioned HOF |
#21
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John, I like the backs, but can you post a scan of the fronts as well? Thanks. -Sean
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