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#1
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Posted By: leon
I don't remember seeing, though I think it might have been going on for a while, a grade and the qualifier "handcut" but this is the best thing I have seen PSA do in a long time. I wish all grading companies would do it with strip cards and obviously hand cut cards. I know SGC now puts "Toy Town Stamp" on some card holders and that is a step in the right direction too.....I have absolutely no affilliation with this auction but want to show what I think is a good thing.... |
#2
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Posted By: John S
I agree. However, why put a grade on a handcut card? Just leave the designation as hand cut. What we will never know is if the card was cut (or re-cut) two weeks ago or 100 years ago. |
#3
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Posted By: leon
I agree. I have never thought handcut cards should get a numerical grade. Simply saying "Authentic handcut" would be about perfect, imho....I have been told that graders can tell how long ago a card was "cut" but have never really figured that one out? We know about how the fibers lay down on cards from the mfg but if it was cut by a particular handcutting device, 90 yrs ago or 10 yrs ago, would seem hard to determine.....At least this was a step in the right direction though.....regards |
#4
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Posted By: boxingcardman
if you know the issue and know what it is supposed to look like, you can grade it prefectly fine. It doesn't matter whether the strip was cut last week or 80 years ago; the cards were intended to be cut down. It is not like an uncut sheet of cards that a submitter cuts down and tries to pass off as factory cut. Like the T206 Wagner (sorry, wrong thread). There should also be numerical grading (where the holder allows) on multiple cards in a single strip or sheet, treating the whole just like a big card. |
#5
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Posted By: E, Daniel
I too am a believer in numerical grades for cut down strip cards. They were intended to be seperated, and the logical progression for grading their condition is to judge that cutting effort, along with the other condition assessments. |
#6
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Posted By: scott brockelman
nothing else. As you can see from the W555 box, it is not the original size. to grade it an 8 is ridicluous, how many could you come up with buying all of the lower grade full size ones and cut them down to this size. The W555 is not a "handcut" card. |
#7
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Posted By: leon
I don't think any card (that I can think of off hand) made to be cut after it was distributed should get a numerical grade. Heck, why I don't take the all of the strips I have and cut them down and send them in for 98's? I think it's crazy...but to each their own....regards |
#8
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Posted By: Kevin Saucier
<"What we will never know is if the card was cut (or re-cut) two weeks ago or 100 years ago."> |
#9
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Posted By: John S
Kevin, |
#10
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Posted By: leon
If I take my finger and rub it over the white part of that trim it won't be white anymore and will look aged...Also, I recently picked up that super high grade Dorskin-type SGC92 D304 Baker from REA. The group was said to have been in a book forever (well, you know what I mean)..The edges are very WHITE with no toning...If a card was cut from a strip and put away, 80 years ago, there might not be toning in that case either....no? I realize that could be an exception but still not that far fetched. |
#11
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Posted By: Kevin Saucier
A finger rub and/or dirt will usually look much different than a natural tone. Give it a try on beater. Cut one side and try to finger tone it to match the other sides. Not as easy as it sounds but educational and interesting to attempt. |
#12
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Posted By: leon
I have...and it works... |
#13
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Posted By: Gilbert Maines (when he was younger)
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#14
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Posted By: E, Daniel
In Australia we called it 'cut along the dotted line'.... |
#15
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Posted By: E, Daniel
I would think that a card can only be either factory cut, or hand cut. If there is another method of seperating the card I am intrigued..... |
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