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#1
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I'm looking to add a card to my collection and have a budget in mind that would either get me a nicely presenting PSA Authentic that was trimmed, or I could get a creased rounded corner PSA 1
I'm not too worried about resale as it's for my PC, but which would you go for assuming the price was the same for both? |
#2
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Personally id take a nicer presenting trimmed card than a creased psa 1 .
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Currently in 2024 looking to add to these sets. Please contact me . 1910-11 T212 Obaks 1910-11 M116's 1912 T207 1912 C46 Imperial Tobbaco Frank Arellanes Zeenuts |
#3
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Kind of depends on the card we're talking about but nine out of 10 times I would prefer a slightly altered. Copy that presents well to a beat up example.
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#4
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Kind of depends on the card we're talking about but nine out of 10 times I would prefer a slightly altered Copy that presents well to a beat up example.
This is the route that I took for this US Carmel Ruth. |
#5
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Give me the beater in all their glory:
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#6
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Great eye appeal A over ugly 1 any day.
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#7
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My personal preference is always a numeric number over an altered card. - |
#8
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Sometimes I take both at the same time.
Note that this one was already pretty beat up, and then some odious blackguard of a card doctor with scissors for hands decided to attack the flap on one side.
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Trying to wrap up my master mays set, with just a few left: 1968 American Oil left side 1971 Bazooka numbered complete panel |
#9
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Nice looking authentic over beater every time IMO.
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#10
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If the trimming was very slight and the card presented well, I'd take the A graded trimmed card over a totally jacked up "1" grade. I'd even consider the very slightly trimmed "A" grade over a high grade card because the high grade card is probably trimmed but ended up with a numerical grade...
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fr3d c0wl3s - always looking for OJs and other 19th century stuff. PM or email me if you have something cool you're looking to find a new home for. |
#11
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Nice looking A over a beater 1 all day every day.
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#12
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#13
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A all the way.
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Collection: https://www.flickr.com/photos/132359235@N05/sets/ For Sale: https://www.flickr.com/photos/132359...7719430982559/ Ebay listings: https://www.ebay.com/sch/harrydoyle/...p2047675.l2562 |
#14
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Give me the beater over the “A” grade!
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Tony A. |
#15
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Think I’m on the beater 1 train, but not entirely opposed to the A grade
I have a few T206 HOF’ers as A as I got some great deals on them.
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__________________ M@tt G@lvin Current Runs: 1956 Topps HOF Run: 11/36 Al Kaline Run: 7/22 M116 Blue HOF Background: 1/11 Instagram: @StraightRaceCards YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@StraightRaceCards |
#16
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To steal a line from a fellow net54 member, A for awesome!
I never would have been able to pick up a T3 Cobb that looked even remotely this nice without that AA label. ![]() But I also love nice looking 1's, it's all about eye appeal for me. ![]()
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successful deals with hcv123, rholmes, robw1959, Yankees1964, theuclakid, Brian Van Horn, h2oya311, thecapeleague, Gkoz316, chesbro41, edjs, wazoo, becollie, t206kid, vintageismygame, Neal, bradmar48, iconsportscards, wrapperguy, agrebene, T3fan, T3s, ccre, Leon, wolf441, cammb, tonyo, markf31,gonzo,scmavl & others currently working on: E101 (33/50) T3 set (104/104), complete! T205 set (108/221) '33 Goudey collecting W600s, Walter Johnson Last edited by chadeast; 11-23-2023 at 12:00 AM. |
#17
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i used to hate altered/trimmed cards...would get rid of any card i found out to be trimmed...I wanted no part of it.
but then u see that most high grade cards in slabs have been trimmed too...so why should I care? On a good day maybe my A will be a 9 someday? |
#18
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I "upgraded" my W9316 Schalk from a SGC 1.5 to an A:
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Current projects: White Sox prewar type set White Sox T206 Master set 1952 Topps set |
#19
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Give me the A every time. I've had multiple cards that I bought in AUTHENTIC slabs that regraded as 4s, 5s, 6s, 7s, and even 8s. I've never had a 1 regrade as anything higher than a 2. For me, it's all about the eye appeal though. If the card is trimmed, and clearly looks trimmed, then I don't want it. If it says trimmed but I can't figure out which edge was trimmed or if it even measures small, then I'll take the Authentic slab every time.
However, it is perhaps worth noting that the best looking Authentic slabs can easily fetch the price of a nice looking 3 or even an off-centered 4.
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If it's not perfectly centered, I probably don't want it. Last edited by Snowman; 11-21-2023 at 02:23 AM. |
#20
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Almost forgot, I also have a Michael Jordan RC that PSA said was "altered", yet SGC, BGS, and CSG all graded it as a 9 (yes, I graded it 4 times because it deserves a 9.5).
These graders are so random. Just because a card says altered doesn't mean it has been. And just because a slab has a number on it doesn't mean it hasn't been altered either. Especially with PSA. They say anything from a screwdown is "altered", which is of course ridiculous.
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If it's not perfectly centered, I probably don't want it. Last edited by Snowman; 11-21-2023 at 02:21 AM. |
#21
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Maybe consider adding a poll - it’s a great question
While it ultimately depends on the two specific examples, I would almost always take the numerically graded card over the A. The upside to the A is you can crack it out, resubmit to PSA, wait 9 months, and probably get it back in a numerical graded slab… Last edited by Rhotchkiss; 11-21-2023 at 04:01 AM. |
#22
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How about a 1 that is technically a 1 but has a great front but some glue on the back?
This is my fave 1 and probably will always be!
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************************************************** *********** Jeff "Belfast1933" - honoring my dad, Belfast Maine and Right Fielder for the mighty East Side Rinky Dinks https://grossvintagebaseball.com/ |
#23
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I am happy to go with an A or a 1, if it allows me to (affordably) obtain a card with decent eye appeal.
https://www.net54baseball.com/attach...1&d=1700570843 https://www.net54baseball.com/attach...1&d=1700570847 |
#24
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Never an A, too hard to sell down the road.
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#25
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A’s are great for your PC as they can look like a 3-5 and can present much better than a poor graded card. However for resale, numerical grades may sell for a higher price. 52 Topps Mick is an exception, given As tend to go for more than 1s, as is all about the striking eye appeal. So, it really depends on the card and your collecting goals.
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#26
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Not always easy to do, but try to find the “1” that looks like a “4” (most of the time). Hard-to-see spider wrinkles account for the poor grade:
Last edited by Scocs; 11-21-2023 at 08:53 AM. |
#27
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I like the beaters, as long as there isn't paperloss on the front, over an A.
Shows character ![]() Bill
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-------------------------------------------------------------- My Cards - https://www.flickr.com/photos/192293172@N05/albums |
#28
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I would take the beater 1 every day of the week no matter the card. My collection criteria is to try to stay away from cards that show intentional manmade alterations. I’m good with corner wear, wrinkles, creasing - things that could happen over time. But I avoid writing, hole punching, and especially trimming.
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#29
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For me, it depends on what the " A " is. If the designation is trimming, I'm not interested. However, if the card maintains the correct size and the designation is for recoloring, I'm likely interested.
As we all know, the Authentic label is not just trim. It can cover many other alterations.
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My new found obsession the t206! |
#30
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I generally take anything I can get that is reasonably priced. My general preference is for a beater that doesn't have issues in the player's face area. And if trimmed, I prefer something that was done without the aim to deceive others, but instead from some collector long ago. Something that is really obviously trimmed.
But I also prefer my '1' and 'A' cards to not have subjected to slabification. Brian |
#31
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I generally don’t like cards that were altered so I’ll take an SGC 1 over an A most days. It’s all relative though to the card. See how many of these Wagner cards are out there, and you’ll agree that an A is just fine.
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#32
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Beater all day
I’m trying to rid my collection of all A grades, no matter the reason Here’s one of my favorite PSA1 Beaters |
#33
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I didn't realize this was trimmed when I won it many years ago...just figured the writing would make it an A. I'm still not convinced it was trimmed?
I don't make a habit of owning non graded cards...but it's a good way to get a card you may not be able to afford otherwise. Last edited by ullmandds; 11-21-2023 at 10:21 AM. |
#34
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The front is amazing, with great centering. Love it!
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Successful NET54 transactions: robw1959, Tyruscobb |
#35
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The alteration is all I would see. Gimme the beater card instead.
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Read my blog; it will make all your dreams come true. https://adamstevenwarshaw.substack.com/ Or not... |
#36
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I personally prefer eye appeal and centering first
If you are more a collector go for the eye appeal If you are more a flipper/investor go numbered Where possible I would try waiting to get a better looking 1 then a beater 1 or an alterted authentic It also depends on rarity/availability as I would not pass up a beater card if it is something I wanted and it is rare and do not know when I might find another better looking one.
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Thanks all Jeff Kuhr https://www.flickr.com/photos/144250058@N05/ Looking for 1920 Heading Home Ruth Cards 1920s Advertising Card Babe Ruth/Carl Mays All Stars Throwing Pose 1917-20 Felix Mendelssohn Babe Ruth 1921 Frederick Foto Ruth Rare early Ruth Cards and Postcards Rare early Joe Jackson Cards and Postcards 1910 Old Mills Joe Jackson 1914 Boston Garter Joe Jackson 1911 Pinkerton Joe Jackson |
#37
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There are many factors that go into it, but ultimately I'd agree with the comment above |
#38
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Eye appeal for me.
https://www.net54baseball.com/attach...1&d=1700691013 |
#39
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I'd go with the higher eye appeal of the A.. I've never been a big fan of the beaters no matter who it is or how rare.
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#40
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Perhaps an even more interesting question would be if you prefer a beater graded a '1', or a slabbed card graded high that has been trimmed or altered.
Better call me Beater Brian |
#41
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Recently moved on from both of these. Each has their appeal IMHO, but I'd take the Authentic for its presentation. Great approach for obtaining beautiful cards at a fraction of the price.
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#42
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Your question reminds me of a similar situation I faced many years ago when deciding among two cards which I wanted. I posed the question to a long-time collector/dealer who answered as follows:
"Forget what everybody is telling you. This card is for you. Which one do you like?" Over the years I come to regard that as the single greatest piece of collectibles advice anybody ever gave me. |
#43
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