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#1
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I’m always confused by the fact that complete sets are regularly cheaper than the equivalent summed singles pricing. I understand when buying singles, a person is able to cherry pick condition and typically has shipping associated. But still, a similarly spec’d complete set does not seem to pull the same money. It’s like people expect to pay for the star cards and be essentially given the rest. Is there no value for a set being intact?
Do others have the same experiences, or is this just me? Thanks, Bill Last edited by bks14sr; 03-03-2022 at 01:32 PM. |
#2
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I suspect it's for the same reason that buying 24 individual cans of beer is 'dumber' than simply purchasing a case of beer.
__________________
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Elm's Adventures in Cardboard Land ![]() https://www.youtube.com/@TheJollyElm Looking to trade? Here's my bucket: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152396...57685904801706 “I was such a dangerous hitter I even got intentional walks during batting practice.” Casey Stengel Spelling "Yastrzemski" correctly without needing to look it up since the 1980s. Overpaying yesterday is simply underpaying tomorrow. ![]() |
#3
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__________________
Thanks all Jeff Kuhr https://www.flickr.com/photos/144250058@N05/ Looking for 1920 Heading Home Ruth Cards 1920s Advertising Card Babe Ruth/Carl Mays All Stars Throwing Pose 1917-20 Felix Mendelssohn Babe Ruth 1921 Frederick Foto Ruth Rare early Ruth Cards and Postcards Rare early Joe Jackson Cards and Postcards 1910 Old Mills Joe Jackson 1914 Boston Garter Joe Jackson 1911 Pinkerton Joe Jackson |
#4
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Ahh, didn’t realize vintage cardboard was that abundant and priced on how they’re manufactured/packaged. Figured I’d get some bs responses. But I’ll hold out for actual, as I’ve dealt with plenty of solid people here.
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#5
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Another thought I had is to think about it this way: Which cards do people want? 99/100, when buying a 63 Topps card, are buying Aaron/Mantle/Mays over a complete set, or an Earl Francis card. The market for complete sets is much thinner. Therefore it makes sense that when selling a set, to most of the public you are selling the bluechip cards. Set collecting is more niche and won't demand a premium over the big cards. |
#6
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Me personally, I'd rather pay a little more piecing together a set by myself. It's a project, takes some time so it keeps me occupied, and I can pick each card that I want. Buying a full complete set is kind of boring to me.
I think less people are looking to build sets than there are people just looking for the pieces of the set so the demand is less. Just a guess though. Last edited by BCauley; 03-03-2022 at 02:09 PM. Reason: Added a sentence. |
#7
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Sometimes I think it's just we Long Islanders who seem to get it.
__________________
All the cool kids love my YouTube Channel:
Elm's Adventures in Cardboard Land ![]() https://www.youtube.com/@TheJollyElm Looking to trade? Here's my bucket: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152396...57685904801706 “I was such a dangerous hitter I even got intentional walks during batting practice.” Casey Stengel Spelling "Yastrzemski" correctly without needing to look it up since the 1980s. Overpaying yesterday is simply underpaying tomorrow. ![]() |
#8
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When I buy a set, personally, I'm not thinking about paying a premium, even though the cards may be rare and all the work of compiling it was done by someone else. I'm thinking, "group discount" or "package price." It certainly is harder to part out a set, but usually more lucrative than selling a complete set. As noted by a previous poster, many do like the challenge of choosing each card and building the set themselves.
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Thanks for your thoughts, Joe. Love the late 1800’s Boston Beaneaters and the early Boston Red Sox (1903-1918)! Also collecting any and all basketball memorabilia. |
#9
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successful deals with hcv123, rholmes, robw1959, Yankees1964, theuclakid, Brian Van Horn, h2oya311, thecapeleague, Gkoz316, chesbro41, edjs, wazoo, becollie, t206kid, vintageismygame, Neal, bradmar48, iconsportscards, wrapperguy, agrebene, T3fan, T3s, ccre, Leon, wolf441, cammb, tonyo, markf31,gonzo,scmavl & others currently working on: E101 (33/50) T3 set (104/104), complete! T205 set (108/221) '33 Goudey collecting W600s, Walter Johnson |
#10
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Most complete sets offered are a hodge podge of individual grades with an overall composite grade. NM cards offset by a similar number of EX cards yield an EX/MT set grade but there is a fair amount of variation from card to card. I personally hate the process of building a set because half of the cards you think match your standard and purchase online wind up being over graded and you just re-sell them and try again. I'm speaking only about raw sets/cards here. I recently bought a large group of near sets from 1948 - 1970. Many of the high dollar cards had been sold individually by the family but the rest of the sets were sold in bulk. A few sets were pretty close to complete so I decided to just complete them thinking it would add value. Of course, although they were not missing many cards, they were missing the highest dollar cards. I completed the 1954 Bowman, 1955 Topps, 1956 Topps, and 1960 Topps. I would have been much better off to have just sold the cards I actually bought in the original deal. You cannot get the big cards at a discount so I just tied up a lot more money with no real chance for additional profit. Should have just consigned all the sets as purchased to Greg Morris to break individually. I'm sure I would have done much better as he gets more for most cards than the grade indicates it is worth and he will list each card individually. Lesson learned. |
#11
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#12
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My main issue with set building, speaking from doing a gran total of 1 so far, is that it’s fairly annoying when there’s a card or two that just never pop up. I guess I need to have a few different balls in play to stay busy or pick a popular set.
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#13
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Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk |
#14
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![]() When I put the 55 Bowman set together the shipping cost was a huge part of putting the set together. For me the fun of putting a set together is worth the extra cost of just buying a completed one. |
#15
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Is there value for a set being intact? Yes. But it isn't monetary value. The value is in the self-satisfaction of having completed a set.
If it's all about the 'more money', then collect the cards that you like in a given set, then move on to a different set; don't "lower" the value by completing a set with cards you don't care about. I recall when the sales tax in Kentucky was 3% when I was a kid. At some point, might have been 25 cents, the clerk would add a penny for tax. Hmmm, so if I bicycled over to the store that sold baseball cards, with enough coins to buy 8 packs (40 cents), then I'd make two trips through the cashier's line. 8 packs at once would cost 41 cents. Two purchases of 4 packs each would cost a total of 40 cents. THEN, to my outrage, in March of 1968, the Governor and state legislature got a law passed that would change the sales tax to 5%, and I think at 15 cents of a total sale they'd add the first penny of tax. I was shattered. Much of my early ball card money was from picking up Coke, Pepsi and RC bottles out of ditches on Saturday mornings. I'd get 4 cents for returning a Coke bottle, and 3 cents for the others. So a penny tax was frustrating to a bicycling kid. By 1968, paying a few cents occasionally for tax was not an insurmountable burden. But I still didn't like it. Last edited by FrankWakefield; 03-03-2022 at 08:02 PM. |
#16
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I am not a set collector, but in addition to the posts above talking about the enjoyment of putting together a set, there is also the issue of the total amount of money in a single transaction.
There are a lot more people whose budget allows them to buy a card/handful of cards here and there without going into the red on their bills that month than there are people whose budget allows them to spend what it takes to buy everything at once, even if it does come at a bit of a discount.
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Collection: https://www.flickr.com/photos/132359235@N05/sets/ For Sale: https://www.flickr.com/photos/132359...7719430982559/ Ebay listings: https://www.ebay.com/sch/harrydoyle/...p2047675.l2562 |
#17
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Does anybody else question the OP's premise that "complete sets are regularly cheaper than the equivalent summed singles pricing"? I've never purchased a complete set, so I don't have a lot of relevant experience, but my recollection of the half-a-dozen-or-so instances where Mile High has run auctions that allowed bidding on the individual cards and the set is that the set won more often than not. My memory could be wrong, but I certainly remember "winning" a lot of individual cards only to be trumped by the high set-bidders.
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#18
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The online marketplace has changed everything too.
During the junk wax era, complete sets were priced more in line with the underlying breakup value. Sometimes even above it. Because there was a lot more demand for them. Mainly because building a set was quite tedious w/ only SCD, maybe a local card shop, and whatever shows you could make it to. Which, unless you lived in a big city, were often just 30 to 40 tables of Kevin Maas cards at the local VFW. But with the ease of finding practically anything you need online, partials and commons have a much more popular marketplace than they did back then. Leading to many people going back to their childhood fun of putting a set together. Buying complete sets just isn't as popular anymore. |
#19
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There are a some exceptions ('64, '74, and especially '81 Topps come to mind), but not many. With individual star cards and partials in such demand, it doesn't take much for the pieces to cost more than the whole. Especially when you have really expensive cadillac cards or high numbers for a set's era |
#20
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Over the past year raw set prices seem to have doubled. For example, mid-grade 72 baseball sets could be had for around $1500, today the same set would bring $2500-3000. |
#21
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I appreciate all the responses. I’ve so far only completed a few sets, as I primarily chased singles of interest. My recollection from past efforts were that complete sets did pull a premium. As mentioned, maybe that’s changed due to ease of finding singles these days, a few of the mentioned reasons, as well as the particular set being chased. I recently started making some changes in my collection and decided to get more liquid to chase bigger wants. I seem to change collection direction every so often, so it’s swaying me from chasing sets with current approach. I’ll start taking the less popular approach, buying complete sets as a start point, then replacing singles from there. Started pricing a sell of my mid grade 54T set, was surprised by the huge difference in complete comps to singles. It should be closer in my eyes.
My sets are uniform throughout, as I do cherry pick from large lot and single purchases. That’s more why I asked the original question. A direct sales comparison between selling a set and breaking out those same cards, I figured the value would lean towards the complete set. But I see most don’t have my same logic. Last edited by bks14sr; 03-04-2022 at 08:00 AM. |
#22
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I remember when I was working on Topps sets 20+ years ago and the Beckett Price Guide was the main source for prices. Each set had a complete set price listed along with separate listings for commons (by series for the older sets) and then individual stars and minor stars. Usually, if you added up the prices of all the listed stars and minor stars, you got pretty close to the price listed for the entire set which seemed to mean that if you could find a whole set to buy, you would basically get the commons for free. Since I couldn't afford to buy an entire set at once, I never was able to verify if that was really true, but it certainly was implied by the price guide.
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#23
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I think it's the fact that most collectors can't afford to buy a complete set all at once but can afford to pickup a card here and there. There is also the aspect of the enjoyment of building something and the sense of accomplishment when the task is complete. That's why when many collectors finish said set, it either sits on a shelf or they decide to sell it to start something new.
Just my 2 cents.
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I Remember Now. ![]() |
#24
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As a seller I would sell a complete set at a discount as opposed to selling each card individually as it would save me a lot of time and energy
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#25
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#26
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It is very rare to find complete sets for sale now. Most AHs or ebay sellers (GM) break up them to maximize profit.
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#27
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I think it depends on a few factors.
For me... If it's a vintage set and kinda pricey...I love the build. Usually ends up being cheaper, you pay as you go and get to pick the condition of the cards. I hate buying a vintage set via AH. I often feel because of the amount of cards in the set they're aren't described the best (unless it's a graded set). In addition, I enjoy learning about the different players as I add them into the set. If it's a modern set, say 1987 Topps etc. I'm buying the factory set, looking through them and call it a day. The thrill is the chase vs. the catch! Last edited by GoCubsGo32; 03-04-2022 at 11:50 AM. |
#28
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I always go back to this example. A friend of mine put together a 1933 Goudey set card by card with every card PSA6. He bought many cards in other graded holders and paid to cross them over to be sure everything was in a PSA6 holder. When he sold it as a set, he lost over $30K. I thought it was a terrible way to sell them, but that's what happened. I'm sure whoever bought it broke it up and made money.
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#29
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I’m a “project” guy, so I love set building. I enjoy the focus, the hunt, and the clear path to the completion of a goal. I can never wrap my head around just collecting random cards. Absolutely nothing wrong with it, it’s just not how my brain works, I guess.
I think that complete sets tend to sell for less than the sum of the parts for a few reasons. 1. Not many people buy complete sets. 2. Most of those that do buy them, do so to break them up. 3. Buying a set and breaking it takes a ton of time and effort. 4. As mentioned, there is more fun in building it than owning it.
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Items for sale or trade here UPDATED 3-16-18 Last edited by conor912; 03-04-2022 at 12:53 PM. |
#30
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For the '72 you mentioned, a lot of ex+/ex-mt raw sets have gone for 2300-2400 on ebay in the last three months. A year ago, those sets would've sold for 1700-1800. And that's the type of 30-40% increase that I've seen across the board for many vintage sets. Anyone spending 3000 for a "mid grade" '72 really overpaid. Plus the underlying breakup is still a bit higher than those recent sales. Even before factoring in the transaction costs of building one. Last edited by cardsagain74; 03-04-2022 at 02:06 PM. |
#31
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I like buying complete vintage sets, i would also be thrilled with a discount to breakup value. Anyone wants to sell them, contact me! I like putting them together, but though some are plentiful, it can take lots of patience to finish them in a consistent grade. I think there should be a premium for that effort, happy if i get a discount from all of you though!
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#32
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/25533367593...p2047675.l2557 Since the 72 set is one of my favorite sets, I tend to pay more attention to those sales. Not sure I remember midgrade 72 sets a year ago consistently selling for more than $1500. Possibly a few did. Still, the buyer of this $3k midgrade 72 set probably still got a bargain at $3k. Based on my own recent experience, I broke a near high number midgrade run, less the top 15 cards for around $1500. The whole midgrade run likely sells for $1800-2k pieced out. For someone piecing the set together card by card, if s/h average $3 a card, it would cost almost $400 in s/h alone for the just the high #s. I'm pretty sure my 72 set has doubled in value over the past year. Early last year the APR on my set was around $13k, up to almost $25k as of today. https://www.psacard.com/psasetregist...lishedset/3092 I would argue that increase is likely due to grading costs of commons and the reduced supply of commons. |
#33
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![]() Like you said though, the '72 has a lot of breakup value versus what people pay for it complete (even if they don't get a very good price). Those highs add up so quick for a '70s set. Mine isn't in the same universe as your PSA 8 registry bonanza, but even in the raw ex-mt/nr mt it's in, the underlying value still packs a punch Last edited by cardsagain74; 03-05-2022 at 02:00 AM. |
#34
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I now like the beer analogy much better!! ![]() Thank you.
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#35
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I’ll give essentially the same answer I just did in another thread. Prices are determined by supply and demand not just supply or demand.
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#36
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/25533367593...p2047675.l2557 Since I finished my original raw 72 set circa 2001, I have probably broken up around 20 complete 72 sets, plus numerous other near 72 sets over the past 20 years as this set was the most profitable set to break for me. The profitability is mainly due to the high numbers. However, in recent times, with the demand and supply changes (as noted by Glyn) breaking this set currently at the new typical prices for a decent profit is much tougher. |
#37
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It's been near impossible for me to add any 1952 topps high series , even going after big lots of 20+ cards and paying "retail", after the BP, shipping, and tax. I'd suspect a full set would go for the full value of its parts, even more if it had a mantle.... people feel just to "get a mantle" is worth it. Also, always fun to upgrade a set along the way to you own personal liking. I cant speculate on others, but assume a "factory set" in the original box from the 70s might bring a premium as well.
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#38
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The current Mile High Auction has a 1958 Topps set listed as a complete set as well as individual cards with final sale determined by which is higher. Any bets on which way it ends up?
http://milehighcardco.com/1958_Topps...-LOT83297.aspx |
#39
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From the dealer standpoint, there is one thing that makes it more attractive to sell sets or near sets: time. Both the time value of money and the time it takes to sell. A single card takes as much time to sell as a set. Plus, when I buy a collection I want to get my money out and ready for the next deal as quickly as I can. Selling 20 sets is a hell of a lot more manageable than selling 2,000 cards.
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#40
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For the most part, I've bought near sets and then filled them out to fill in my gaps from the 50s. I did a 1961 Topps set (birth year) basically card by card and found it painful every time I had to buy a high number common for $20.
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#41
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I think it depends on the sets for value. In likely 99% or more of the sets, it's probably better to sell the individual cards than the set as a whole. There are some sets that I believe would sell at a premium due to scarcity. I doubt there are many vintage sets and likely even less modern sets but I think if a person had a t205, t206 (with or without some or all of the big 4) and maybe a handful of others, they would likely command a premium since they just don't come to market that often.
It will be very interesting to see the t206-520 that is being sold at one of the major auction houses in a week or two. My guess is it commands a 10-20% premium (if not more) to the average resale value of each card. We'll see how it goes, though! |
#42
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If a complete, very rare set came along, I think the sharks would be out and the whole set would do better. As has been said, rarity would be a factor. Folks with deep pockets won't miss a potential unique opportunity...or one that only comes up every 10+ yrs. I remember selling my Western Playground set and I am pretty sure it brought more as a set than had I sold it singly.
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