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#1
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I rarely look at newly listed buy it now auctions or listings searching for bargains. Rather I usually focus on time ending soonest auction listings looking for bargains with the benefit of instant gratification should I prevail. However, using this technique, there seems to be an epidemic of the "museum auction" recently. Scanning the auctions that are ending today on any given day, and finding an auction with at least one bid can be a challenge. I have trained myself not to look at the card or the price and if the auction has "0 Bids", I look no further and move on.
I would like to be able to exclude (0 Bid) auctions from my search criteria to eliminate the need to wade through the "museum auctions" every day.
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RAUCOUS SPORTS CARD FORUM MEMBER AND MONSTER FATHER. GOOD FOR THE HOBBY AND THE FORUM WITH A VAULT IN AN UNDISCLOSED LOCATION FILLED WITH WORTHLESS NON-FUNGIBLES 274/1000 Monster Number |
#2
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On the top right of the page there is a link that says "Advanced"
This will take you to a long list of advanced search options, one of which is number of bids. Just set the minimum at 1 and save.
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R Dixon |
#3
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![]() Thanks.
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RAUCOUS SPORTS CARD FORUM MEMBER AND MONSTER FATHER. GOOD FOR THE HOBBY AND THE FORUM WITH A VAULT IN AN UNDISCLOSED LOCATION FILLED WITH WORTHLESS NON-FUNGIBLES 274/1000 Monster Number Last edited by frankbmd; 02-14-2017 at 10:41 AM. |
#4
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what are museum auctions?
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#5
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Auctions with high starting bids that never get bid on. They run the length of the auction with no bids, the seller then starts the process over again with the same high starting bid, repeat, repeat, repeat.
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Numerous successful transactions on Net54, just ask for references. https://www.collectorfocus.com/collection/gregr2 |
#6
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absolute waste of time !
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#7
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I use the 'advanced settings' all the time.
I also type in -reprint in the search, so it basically gets rid of half the $%^ I am not looking for. It also doesn't hurt to put a minimum bid range, sometime a maximum is used to exclude those musueum piece as well. BTW..for those unable to see the best offer accepted--I use www.watchcount.com
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1916-20 UNC Big Heads Need: Ping Bodie |
#8
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Love Ty Cobb rare items and baseball currency from the 19th Century. |
#9
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thank you very much
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#10
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I stopped looking at BIN's about 2 years. I only look at auctions with more than 3-5 bids. BIN's, IMO, are a complete waste of time vs. effort. Sure, I may miss out on the .003 percent of BIN's that are a bargin, but I enjoy the hobby so much more just having my searches look at real auctions.
Most BIN sellers are trollers looking for whales or folks that have no clue. Like they say on Wall Street; there's an endless line of bidiots. |
#11
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Check out https://www.thecollectorconnection.com Always looking for consignments 717.327.8915 We sell your less expensive pre-war cards individually instead of in bulk lots to make YOU the most money possible! and Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/thecollectorconnectionauctions Last edited by Aquarian Sports Cards; 02-14-2017 at 06:55 PM. |
#12
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Hard to lump all BINs all into one category. I think there are basically 3 types:
1. The show off. The museum pieces. Look at what an amazing card I have. I realize no one is going to pay me $75,000 for it, but look what a cool card I have, etc., etc. If you miss it now come back in a year and it will still be here because I really don't want to sell it. 2. The real dealers. People like Scott who list cool stuff at fair prices, because this is what they do for a living and they like selling stuff. 3. The fast cash guys. Guys who found something they really really want and will sell something quickly today to raise money fast, often at a good price. I like 2 and 3. I've been 3. No. 1 don't like much. Scott looking forward to seeing your new stuff. Last edited by Snapolit1; 02-14-2017 at 06:53 PM. |
#13
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/bn2cardz/albums |
#14
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IMHO, Ebay has gotten pretty bad. I start items via auction at the bare minimum I will accept, and the bids just aren't there like they used to be in the past. Sometimes I start a card at a penny, and I don't want to do free shipping, because I am worried that the card will end at the penny, and it will cost me money to sell items on Ebay.
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#15
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If the bank balance can handle it then sometimes going BIN on a card long coveted may be the only solution. For example, not long ago I pounced on a just listed 1936 WWG Gehrig, a card I have stalked seemingly forever without success. It was, of course, more than I wanted to spend, but I figured when will I see it again?
And I remember when the Dead Sea was healthy. |
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