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Go Back   Net54baseball.com Forums > Net54baseball Buy/Sell/Trade Section (must login, caveat emptor) > 1960-1979 Baseball Cards B/S/T

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  #1  
Old 10-05-2016, 01:24 PM
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Nunzio11 Nunzio11 is offline
Tony
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Default Set Collecting Advice for Newbie

Hey Guys,

Looking for a little direction and advice. Last time I put together a set was in the early 80's ripping open wax and cello packs as a kid. I'd like to avoid as many pitfalls and price gouging as possible.

Time is not an issue as this is for personal collection. I plan on having for a long time and god willing leave to my kids.

I'm starting an early 60's set in which I have a handful of commons, mid range stars and a couple HOFs already.

Not sure if this is personal preference but from an expense standpoint should I:
1 - look into buying an incomplete set then add and upgrade the cards to the grade feasible over time or
2 - just slowly but surely buy small lots and individuals

Any advice is greatly appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 10-05-2016, 02:33 PM
Econteachert205 Econteachert205 is offline
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If you're on a budget I would save and wait and buy the biggest lot possible.
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  #3  
Old 10-05-2016, 08:14 PM
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Agree, buy the biggest/best condition lot you can afford, reconcile that with the cards you already have - keeping the best copy. Then sell the duplicates and finish the set as you can.
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  #4  
Old 10-06-2016, 10:35 AM
JTysver JTysver is offline
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You can probably find some decent lots on EBay of 400 or so different cards for less than $200. Set a price limit (I always set it at .41 per card) and go after it. If it has some HOFers I may go more than my limit. Most people sell the big guys separately however.

After you have a decent sized lot, you can add additional lots whenever you want, take the cards you need, and sell them rest back on the market.

It is cheaper to buy lots than individual cards.

Once you have a decent sized starter set, I would prefer to buy the HOFers separately as you will see the shapes that you need.

When it comes to high number cards, try to buy lots as well. However, you probably won't find much of a value going after 1961, 1966 or 1967 high number lots as those maintain their value even in lots.
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  #5  
Old 10-06-2016, 10:47 AM
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Nunzio11 Nunzio11 is offline
Tony
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I've been monitoring a couple auctions and prices. I'm going to buy a couple mid graded cards (5,6,7s and maybe a lower priced 8) so I can compare the cards I have a get a good baseline. I need to get my grading eye back.
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  #6  
Old 10-06-2016, 10:54 AM
hysell hysell is offline
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Smile Hi,Tony

I have done both ?The one thing i would tell you,is to work hard on the sub-sets!Like Leaders,Team cards,World Series & nice unmarked checklist cards!In ever set i have made, these are always cards i would & still need!Hope this helps you out?ROB,
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  #7  
Old 10-07-2016, 08:39 AM
Prof_Plum Prof_Plum is offline
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I agree with others in buying the larger lots. But if I could do it over, I'd have started my sets by purchasing the stars/HOF first and then fill in the commons. Most large lots won't have those stars and in the current market the prices for those stars seems to be escalating. i have a couple of sets, for example, that are ~90% complete but with only ~50% of the complete value. Not that monetary value is all important, but for my budget I simply wish I had started with the HOF-types.
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  #8  
Old 10-07-2016, 09:42 AM
Sean1125 Sean1125 is offline
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Don't buy lots.

Don't buy singles.

Buy complete sets.

Any other way is asking for a net loss.
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  #9  
Old 10-07-2016, 10:07 AM
vintagetoppsguy vintagetoppsguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean1125 View Post
Don't buy lots.

Don't buy singles.

Buy complete sets.

Any other way is asking for a net loss.
Yes, this.

I'm working on 2 NM 1972 Topps sets. I think they book for something like $1500 each (maybe $1800, I don't have my price guide in front of me). Anyway, there came a point where I realized I had more into the sets than their book value...and I wasn't even finished. So, just for fun, I created an Excel spreadsheet listing each individual card and their individual book value. The total was $4K+ individual book value

So, yes, definitely better to buy complete sets in the condition you're looking for and upgrade as needed (hopefully not too much)...unless you just enjoy the thrill of building a set from scratch...which that is fine too, but you have to realize the cost will be much more significant.

Good luck!
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  #10  
Old 10-07-2016, 03:36 PM
brookdodger55 brookdodger55 is offline
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What year in the 60's
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  #11  
Old 10-08-2016, 07:04 AM
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All great advice thanks everyone. I'm looking at 61, 62, 63 and 64. Not sure which I'm going to focus on yet. Gauging prices availability etc. Definitely going to take time.
Outside of no big name rookie cards is there a reason 64 Topps doesn't seem to carry the weight as the other sets?
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  #12  
Old 10-08-2016, 02:44 PM
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Default My opinion

I would either focus on the stars and/or buy lots (any size really). I recommend you join VCT and other trading groups too and trade your dupes for ones you need. You can work a few sets simultaneously this way. Pick a set, or sets, that appeal visually to you... you'll appreciate them more.

Just my 2 cents...
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  #13  
Old 10-08-2016, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nunzio11 View Post
All great advice thanks everyone. I'm looking at 61, 62, 63 and 64. Not sure which I'm going to focus on yet. Gauging prices availability etc. Definitely going to take time.
Outside of no big name rookie cards is there a reason 64 Topps doesn't seem to carry the weight as the other sets?
I have tried all different ways. Best value is to buy complete as Sean says, but it is a tad boring as it just becomes accumulation. If cash flow is not a challenge, buy multiple complete sets, build the best one possible, and then resell. As I got to the 50's, I found that the value is so concentrated on the big rookies - Clemente, Koufax, Killebrew in '55 and Aaron, Banks, Kaline in '54 - that any set that already included them, they were low grade or they would have been sold individually. And, if it was a strong grade, that individual card price was already built into the set. Therefore, I bought near sets that were missing the big dogs and then searched for the exact example that fit with the set. I would also upgrade so that I was uniform across the board. Patience is your friend and if you keep your eyes on B/S/T, you can find some deals that are a fraction of what you might pay on Ebay.

As far as your question above, I think that it is a combination of the lack of rookie cards and expensive high numbers. The biggest rookie if I recall correctly is Niekro. The Rose second year card and the Mantle are probably the two most expensive cards and there are no condition issues. The cards are also pretty meh and probably my least favorite '60's set (along with '68).

'61 has a really expensive high number series with the All-Star cards. There are 5 Mantles to complete the set as well which has some additional cost.

'62 has the wood grain borders. While Perry and Brock don't kill you as far as rookies are concerned, it does have the Ruth subset, and the high numbers with the parade of rookies cards that add cost.

'63 has the Rose which, depending on condition, can be up to 1/2 the value of the set - usually more like 1/3 or 1/4 - i.e $700 of a $2500 set. This is a beautiful set with the two pictures and the fantastic backs.

It has been a few years since I completed those, so I am trying to go by memory. Good Luck!
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  #14  
Old 10-08-2016, 08:38 PM
avalanche2006 avalanche2006 is offline
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Hey kailes2872,
I have 54 and 55 bowman for you and your message box is full.
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  #15  
Old 10-08-2016, 08:42 PM
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I just received notification and deleted a couple of messages - so I should be able to receive.
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