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#1
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I am finishing at '53 Topps set...again. I have a little start on '54 Topps and might come back to it. Next up, I am really thinking of '56 or '57 Topps because I think I could build a little higher grade of a set. With that said, I have learned a lot about consistency within a set. No matter which set I go after, the cards will all fall in the same range on qualities such as centering, registry, focus, etc. I expect the set will be a graded one. What do you think about a set that is largely graded in the 7 to 8 range (and high end examples of those grades) but the Mantle, which usually ends up being the most expensive card, coming in in the 6 range?? This Mantle graded a 6 would possess the qualities of the 7s and 8s in terms of centering, etc., but it would be a 6 while most of the rest of the set would be 7s or 8s. Would this look odd? I try not to get too hung up on what the holder says, it is more about eye appeal for me. I buy the card, not the holder. Would buying a Mantle a notch below the other cards look cheap?
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#2
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Look cheap to whom?
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My Autograph Blog |
#3
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I don't think one card being a grade lesser than the rest would significantly impact the overall value of the set other than a couple hundred bucks in the case of a Mantle. Me personally don't think it's worth the extra $10/ea. per common to have it slabbed a "7" when likewise raw cards can be bought cheaper, albeit you have to be patient for them
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#4
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#5
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Mantle Master Set - as complete as it is going to get Yankees Game Used Hat Style Run (1923-2017): 57/60 (missing 2008/9 holiday hats & 2017 Players Weekend) Last edited by Bestdj777; 06-11-2013 at 05:36 AM. |
#6
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If you do an eBay search for "1956 Topps NM Dean's Cards -psa, -sgc" there are 149 results. In other words, you're searching raw cards only. Of those raw cards, the least of which is priced $49.99...for a raw NM common. Most of his '56 commons average about $60-$70 in NM condition. I agree with the customer service part, but how is $60-$70 for a NM raw 1956 Topps common a "fair price"? ******************************** To answer the original question, collect the way you like. To me, I like to have consistency. If I was builing a '56 set (which I am), I try to stick within half a grade (which I do). My '56 set is all graded between 7 and 7.5. I was having this same conversation with another board member yesterday via PM. I had a sub that just popped and, to my surprise, there were a couple of 8s in there. Since I'm building the set for fun and not to compete on the registry, I was telling the other board member that I was going to take those 8s and sell them or trade down. They're out of place with the rest of the set because they're the only two in there. Likewise, I had a few 6s pop that I thought would have been 7s, so I will sell those as well. If I were doing a broader range set (say from like 5.5 to 7.5), then it's not that big a deal. But when you have all 7s, then yes, I think a 6 would look out of place with your set (assuming that's the only one). That's just me though. As I said at first, collect the way you like. |
#7
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#8
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All my sets are raw, but naturally the tough hits will come up with dinged corners, unless you wanna obviously pay. My pre war collection is small, but mostly slabbed.
I do always hear "buy the card, not the slab." However, sometimes I feel it to be a double standard of sorts. I say if you buy the card, not the slab, then dont buy slabbed cards! But to answer your question more specifically, "no" I dont think its cheap. Good luck! -wes.... Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2 |
#9
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Good point, I do agree. Good luck, stay on track
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