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#1
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A few weeks back I posted about getting insurance and got great impute and direction. I find myself again needing a little more help ? I need to establish values on my cards.
Is there a web site that has a search engine for pre-war or a book or magazine that I can buy to get current prices ? https://www.flickr.com/photos/151843924@N04/albums Last edited by garymc; 03-28-2023 at 10:02 AM. |
#2
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My suggestion would be to check any and as many auction sites for recent prices. And ebay.
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![]() Collecting Detroit 19th Century N172, N173, N175. N172 Detroit. Getzein, McGlone, Rooks, Wheelock, Gillligan, Kid Baldwin Error, Lady Baldwin, Conway, Deacon White Positive transactions with Joe G, Jay Miller, CTANK80, BIGFISH, MGHPRO, k. DIXON, LEON, INSIDETHEWRAPPER, GOCUBSGO32, Steve Suckow, RAINIER2004, Ben Yourg, GNAZ01, yanksrnice09, cmiz5290, Kris Sweckard (Kris19),Angyal, Chuck Tapia,Belfast1933,bcbgcbrcb,fusorcruiser, tsp06, cobbcobb13 |
#3
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I've been using VCP for about 8 years now. Annual subscription cost is $190 I believe.
https://vintagecardprices.com/ |
#4
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I failed to mention that my collection is 90% RAW. I started collecting in 1992 and it has been only the last couple of years that I've been getting graded cards in trades and at auction.
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#5
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The gist of the insurance companies' approach is that they will either find replacements that are of similar quality, or they will cut you a check for the amount of your coverage if they can't replace it. My advice would be to estimate the amount that you would need to pay to replace each item if you had to go out and buy it retail, which is often a lot higher than auction prices. For some stuff, it's not easy to find comps, particularly with raw obscure pieces, just because they're that hard to find, and come onto the market very infrequently. Ebay is certainly a good resource. You can also use cardfinder, which is free, and has the added benefit of including raw cards, although I'm not sure how complete their database is. In some cases, any given item might not have sold recently, so you'll be relying on old sales data to pick a number. Just make sure to factor in the dramatic runup in prices over the last couple of years. Ultimately, for some things it might be tough to find much, so you will probably just have to give it your best guess. I would aim a little on the high side, just to give yourself some cushion. Because we all know that when it comes to stuff that is difficult to find, the price can jump in a hurry if you're competing with a few other collectors to get it.
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Trying to wrap up my master mays set, with just a few left: 1968 American Oil left side 1971 Bazooka numbered complete panel |
#6
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/190647741@N04/albums |
#7
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or use the PSA site, click on auction prices. ITS FREE!
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1916-20 UNC Big Heads Need: Ping Bodie |
#8
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I'm in a similar situation, but I'm trying to find current selling prices, so if something happens to me, what little family I have, has an idea of the going rate. The biggest issue is nearly all my T206's are non Piedmont and Sweet Caporal. I could tell them to just auction them off, and where it ends, it ends. But I'd rather they have the option to offer the cards here on Net54, and the couple facebook groups I'm a part of. I'm planning on scanning all my cards and adding them to a website, where I can update sales on the same card, in different grades, because many of my cards just don't get offered for sale, or they are old prices from years ago, with many that only show what I originally paid 6 plus years ago. Cobbs in a SGC 20 with a Sovereign 150 back, no longer sell for $750. Or cards like a Lundgren Cubs with a EPDG back thats graded SGC 60. How do you find a current sale price on it? Online subscription guides only show common back prices, unless there's something new out there that I don't know about. Plus I'm not just dealing with a couple hundred cards, because then I wouldn't be as concerned, but I'm dealing with 1600+ cards, and that's just for the T206's. I don't have any kids, otherwise I wouldn't be concerned as much. Hopefully we can both get some good advice on value/comps.
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Ron - Uncle Nacki T206 Master Monster Front/Back Set Collector - www.youtube.com/unclenacki T206 Basic "The Monster" Set 514/524 T206 Advanced "Master Monster" Front/Back Set ?? ![]() COMPLETE T206 BACK SUBSETS Old Mill Southern Leagues - Black Ink 48/48 Sweet Caporal 350-460 Factory 30 Full Color "No Prints" 28/28 NEAR COMPLETE T206 BACK SUBSETS Polar Bear 245/250 Sovereign 460 50/52 Sweet Caporal 150 Factory 649 Overprint 31/34 Piedmont 350 "Elite 11" 9/11 |
#9
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Thanks all Jeff Kuhr https://www.flickr.com/photos/144250058@N05/ Looking for 1920 Heading Home Ruth Cards 1920s Advertising Card Babe Ruth/Carl Mays All Stars Throwing Pose 1917-20 Felix Mendelssohn Babe Ruth 1921 Frederick Foto Ruth Rare early Ruth Cards and Postcards Rare early Joe Jackson Cards and Postcards 1910 Old Mills Joe Jackson 1914 Boston Garter Joe Jackson 1911 Pinkerton Joe Jackson |
#10
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Insurance she watches my safes
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#11
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Cute dog.........
Isn't there a magazine or a book that I can buy ? |
#12
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There are apps you can purchase, or some of them are even free.
I use Center Stage for my iPhone. It is free. You simply hold your phone over the card, after two or three seconds, it identifies it, and it gives you the value based on eBay sold sales. |
#13
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Never mind, missed that it was all prewar.
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Net 54-- the discussion board where people resent discussions. ![]() My avatar is a sketch by my son who is an art school graduate. Some of his sketches and paintings are at https://www.jamesspaethartwork.com/ Last edited by Peter_Spaeth; 03-29-2023 at 04:31 PM. |
#14
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How large is your collection?
I recently created an Excel spreadsheet to list/organize my entire graded card collection (have no idea what to do about ungraded yet, if anything at all). Took forever, because I didn't realize I had so much plastic, but now have the option to (manually) enter/amend 'estimated values' to keep a running tally. After you find the right method to assess the value of your cards, it might be a workable option for you if the size of your collection doesn't dissuade you from doing so. Good luck!!
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All the cool kids love my YouTube Channel:
Elm's Adventures in Cardboard Land ![]() https://www.youtube.com/@TheJollyElm Looking to trade? Here's my bucket: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152396...57685904801706 “I was such a dangerous hitter I even got intentional walks during batting practice.” Casey Stengel Spelling "Yastrzemski" correctly without needing to look it up since the 1980s. Overpaying yesterday is simply underpaying tomorrow. ![]() |
#15
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Yep, I go to psacard.com and check auction prices for my cards. For raw cards, you can also look at their "PSA value," which used to be called SMR value.
I also like the VCP site, because it will automatically update your prices based on reported card sales. I haven't pulled the trigger yet, though, on getting a subscription. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk |
#16
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Agree with Chris. The PSA app allows you to enter both PSA and non-PSA cards (read "raw"). Auction values (APR Values) as well as PSA's estimate of values are provided for your PSA entries and you can use their raw data to guestimate the raw or other graded card values.
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#17
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I am about 90% done with a card spreadsheet and I just finished a photo inventory of my Highlander photos. I have photos of the backs but didn't include them in the inventory ? Here are my photo's..........
https://www.flickr.com/photos/151843...77720307100420 |
#18
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Ron - Uncle Nacki T206 Master Monster Front/Back Set Collector - www.youtube.com/unclenacki T206 Basic "The Monster" Set 514/524 T206 Advanced "Master Monster" Front/Back Set ?? ![]() COMPLETE T206 BACK SUBSETS Old Mill Southern Leagues - Black Ink 48/48 Sweet Caporal 350-460 Factory 30 Full Color "No Prints" 28/28 NEAR COMPLETE T206 BACK SUBSETS Polar Bear 245/250 Sovereign 460 50/52 Sweet Caporal 150 Factory 649 Overprint 31/34 Piedmont 350 "Elite 11" 9/11 |
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