What would you use to price what i’m doing?

[Angyale]

Thinking of putting a raw ex+ to ex/mt run of well centered 1958 Topps baseball Hofers and a few others like Maris, etc just because I like the design (but dont want to tie up Nm money). About 46 cards total. What pricing source should I use to estimate purchase prices for these and what percentage should I expect to pay? Are any references even halfway useful? Thanks,

Eric

[wdwfan]

I use ebay comps in the same condition and tend to pay a tad more if doing deals in person (at shows, the LCS etc because you're able to inspect the card, look it over and take it home, so that's worth a little more).

[bnorth]

Originally Posted by wdwfan

I use ebay comps in the same condition and tend to pay a tad more if doing deals in person (at shows, the LCS etc because you're able to inspect the card, look it over and take it home, so that's worth a little more).

+1 on eBay sold listings of similar cards. Wish I had the LCS/show option.

[hcv123]

A significant limitation with Ebay is the inability to inspect the card in hand - As good as the images could be, there could easily be a 1-3 grade range difference. It should at least put you in the ballpark.

I also use VCP, look at what I believe to be comparably graded cards and discount for raw.

[53toppscollector]

I typically look for what a graded card in one grade less than I am aiming for sells for. So if I want to buy an EX raw copy, I'd look at the price of a PSA 4 and a 5 and hope to pay on the lower end of that range. That is just a general rule of thumb, it doesnt always hold

[MikeGarcia]

Originally Posted by Angyale

Thinking of putting a raw ex+ to ex/mt run of well centered 1958 Topps baseball Hofers and a few others like Maris, etc just because I like the design (but dont want to tie up Nm money). About 46 cards total. What pricing source should I use to estimate purchase prices for these and what percentage should I expect to pay? Are any references even halfway useful? Thanks,

Eric

...the S&H on 40 or so separate single card sales is going to be quite a lot.....there are some very respected raw card sellers that move a lot of decent raw '58's pretty often ; GM comes to mind ......set breaks from him and an arrangement to "combine shipping" will free up some nice cash when you will need it ( for that centered snow-free ex-mint Roger Maris rookie....e.g. )..just a thought ...
...

..

..good hunting , and always check the BST here daily ; good stuff goes quickly. ..

[wdwfan]

Yea, I'd find a dealer/seller that has several. I've been trying to build the 1958 set, and I'm getting to the point where I'm starting to have to pick up smaller lots (was getting 40-60 at first, now more like 5-10 of my set needs). And the shipping is killing me. I know it's only about $3.50 to ship, but most people on Facebook charge $5 for 1 card BMWT. So just keep that in mind.

By buying from one seller/dealer, you should help offset some of those costs. I've tried GMC, but his stuff always goes for higher than other sellers with the same condition cards. At first, I would put in a max bid and then get outbid at the very last second by someone with like 90% bid activity with him. So I've just stopped buying from him and focusing on others. But I agree to try and find someone with several of the cards.

[53toppscollector]

the best part of GMC for set building is they allow you basically flat $4 shipping and they allow you 7 days to pay. with them usually running 2 auctions a week for the 50s sets, you can buy a whole bunch of cards over a week and pay that flat cost for shipping