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#1
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Hey All,
I'm working on the 52 and 56 topps series. I used to be a PSA collector, mainly when I was starting out, as a way to protect me against less scrupulous sellers. It was nice to know I was getting good, authentic, unaltered cards. But now that I'm more experienced, and have some reliable sellers I buy from, I'm getting into buying raw cards for albums. It's definitely more pleasing to see them all together, and to be able to handle the actual card. But some cards are just hard to find in decent quality uncertified. And others I doubt I would want to buy uncertified. Your Willie Mays and Mickey Mantles, are just too risky. I'd still want that vouch safe. But the conundrum I have is an ethical one. Is it right, do you think, to crack cards that are certified? I worry that I'm depriving someone else of a card for their registry set, and that i'm altering the population reports by removing a card from circulation, and potentially upsetting the records if I sell, and someone else gets it certified again. And I don't know, maybe it's a bad idea to do from a value point. What say you all? Am I overthinking? Is it okay to crack, or better to try to buy raw, if my goal is raw? |
#2
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Overthinking. Crack ‘em out if you don’t want the card entombed.
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#3
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Crack that baby right down the left field line!
Done it before, no guilt! (Particularly when the grade was egregiously off) It’s your money and it’s your call. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#4
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Cracking them out is fine, but just because they're in a numbered slab from PSA doesn't mean they're unaltered. That being said, if you mail PSA the flips back, they will remove them from the POP report since that is a concern of yours. Some people just crack them and leave the flips in their binder sleeve so they can see what they used to be graded.
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-- PWCC: The Fish Stinks From the Head PSA: Regularly Get Cheated BGS: Can't detect trimming on modern SGC: Closed auto authentication business JSA: Approved same T206 Autos before SGC Oh, what a difference a year makes. |
#5
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I'm a binder guy so I bust out any graded cards I need for the sets I'm trying to complete..Mantle, Mays, whoever. If I buy a graded card as a 'stand-alone' collectible, star cards from sets I'll never chase and/or fragile pre-war cards, I leave them in the case.
Does it cost me in terms of the market value of the cards? Sure, but I enjoy paging thru my sets more than anything.
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"When the seagulls follow the trawler, it's because they think sardines will be thrown into the sea. Thank you very much." -Eric Cantona |
#6
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If freeing cards from plastic prisons and returning them to their natural state is unethical me and my bolt cutter are in deep trouble
Last edited by ALR-bishop; 04-17-2020 at 03:47 PM. |
#7
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
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Barry Larkin, Joey Votto, Tris Speaker, 1930-45 Cincinnati Reds, T206 Cincinnati Successful deals with: Banksfan14, Brianp-beme, Bumpus Jones, Dacubfan (x5), Dstrawberryfan39, Ed_Hutchinson, Fballguy, fusorcruiser (x2), GoCalBears, Gorditadog, Luke, MikeKam, Moosedog, Nineunder71, Powdered H20, PSU, Ronniehatesjazz, Roarfrom34, Sebie43, Seven, and Wondo |
#8
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Mr. Dremel says crack away!
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__________________
Read my blog; it will make all your dreams come true. https://adamstevenwarshaw.substack.com/ Or not... |
#9
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I personally couldn't care less about a registry or pop report. I have lots of graded cards, but I crack out any that I want to put in binders or if they're just low value. I never understood someone paying money to grade a card that's under $100. They just take up too much space to me.
__________________
158 successful b/s/t transactions My collection: https://www.instagram.com/collectingbrooklyn/ |
#10
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As much as I also am not fond of slabbed cards, I would be a little cautious with any extremely high value card ( very early 50s Mantle, etc)...come the day you might want to sell the stuff...a buyer might " feel better" paying you ,...knowing the..for ex - 1940 Play Ball Joe Jackson is graded/slabbed
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#11
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I did quite a lot of cracking a few years ago as I was working on a couple of vintage sets. Then, one day I was a little too anxious to free a particular card, my hand slipped on the tool handle and a sharp piece of plastic dug a nice hole into the unfortunate image of Bow Wow Arfft. I left the violent liberation army at that point, but I still empathize with those who enjoy it.
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#12
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#13
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I crack on a routine basis...and like you, some cards are nice to buy graded for that trust factor. Just cracked a Ryan rookie last week as I upgraded in my binder. Natural state is natural state...and I mostly crack 5's and 6's...not sure any registry cares about the mid grades anyhow...
__________________
John Otto 1963 Fleer - 1981-90 Fleer/Donruss/Score/Leaf Complete 1953 - 1990 Topps/Bowman Complete 1953-55 Dormand SGC COMPLETE SGC AVG Score - 4.03 1953 Bowman Color - 120/160 75% |
#14
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My very first attempt to free a card resulted in my dinging a '59 Killebrew when I put that thing together. Nothing too costly but it did cause me to be much more deliberate on subsequent operations. BTW...I do keep the flips that came with the cards I bust loose. I stick them in one of the 20 pocket pages intended for tobacco cards. I keep that page at the back of the binder for that set.
__________________
"When the seagulls follow the trawler, it's because they think sardines will be thrown into the sea. Thank you very much." -Eric Cantona |
#15
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I use binder, so I crack them all. Use the wire cutter method on the top corner. Works great. I put the top paper header behind the card in the binder....figure why not keep it instead of tossing it.
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#16
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Last edited by doug.goodman; 04-22-2020 at 09:33 PM. |
#17
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Seeing as how none of the major TPG's have ever put policy into place by where cracking cards out is a "bad" thing...and moreover in the view of at least some of them ("Please Submit Again")...that the ability for collectors to do so clearly plays into their profit model - I have absolutely no problem with it.
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
#18
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For most folks here the answer to that would be no, but for you Doug the answer is yes because you are up to no good
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#19
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__________________
Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
#20
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Same for me...and also same I've only had one mishap. I was cracking a PSA 6 1967 Topps Boston Red Sox team (high number) and when popping with screw driver (PSA's pop so easy) the center snapped, usually never happens, and I dented the card in the middle...tiny dent. Went from a 6 to a 3...lol. That hurt, and now I take just a little more time so that doesn't happen again. Got a little cocky there. Still a nice card in my binder but I know I will end up replacing...everytime I see that card I get anxiety!
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John Otto 1963 Fleer - 1981-90 Fleer/Donruss/Score/Leaf Complete 1953 - 1990 Topps/Bowman Complete 1953-55 Dormand SGC COMPLETE SGC AVG Score - 4.03 1953 Bowman Color - 120/160 75% Last edited by Harliduck; 04-23-2020 at 11:32 AM. |
#21
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Is it terrible to add that I have popped 4's and 5's that look like 6's and 7's...and have sold a few those that were now raw and they sold for more raw? I don't sell that often but you think someone with a good eye could make a lot of side profit doing so. That 5 was probably originally sent in for grading hoping for a 7, now someone knew may think it can be a 7...
__________________
John Otto 1963 Fleer - 1981-90 Fleer/Donruss/Score/Leaf Complete 1953 - 1990 Topps/Bowman Complete 1953-55 Dormand SGC COMPLETE SGC AVG Score - 4.03 1953 Bowman Color - 120/160 75% |
#22
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Not at all, this actually highlights the subjectivity inherent with grading mid-range cards. I popped another '56 Clemente in a BVG 5 last year because there was a problem with the case or something, and later decided to sell it. Greg Morris bought it from me for comprable to what I paid, and then later sold it for nearly 2x that amount. I saw the auction on the other end and know it was the same card; and he described it accurately as EX to EX+. So the point there is just that particularly for some sellers, the spectulation is rampant and people will shell out for raw cards - even if they just think they may be undergraded. That or there is something just hypnotic about bright blue backgrounds...
__________________
Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. Last edited by jchcollins; 04-23-2020 at 01:52 PM. |
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