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#1
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I don't collect autos. (Not yet at least).
So I won a lot of cards and in the lot is a 1972 IA Willie Mays PSA/DNA (Red Flip) Mays_Auto.jpg I'm probably going to sell it off when the lot does get into my hands, but I want to learn more about in the process. Here's some questions I have about this card and others... any response is much appreciated! How much does the year/scarcity of the card affect the the value? How much does the "grade/eye appeal" of the card itself affect value? Does the type of writing utensil have any affect on value, i.e. blue vs black, pen vs marker? Is there anything else that I should know or be intrigued by? Lastly, if you had to put a range of value of the card, what would it be? Thanks, fellas! |
#2
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How much does the year/scarcity of the card affect the the value?
Obviosuly a signed T206 or ’33 Goudey will always bring a premium over cards from recent eras unless you have a Clemente or Munson for instance. How much does the "grade/eye appeal" of the card itself affect value? Unless the auto is deemed “rare” then eye appeal counts for a lot in my opinion. Does the type of writing utensil have any affect on value, i.e. blue vs black, pen vs marker? If the auto is clean and readable then I do not think there is a big difference. Is there anything else that I should know or be intrigued by? “the meaning of life!” ![]() Lastly, if you had to put a range of value of the card, what would it be? One of these unslabbed just sold on Ebay for $25. Item #171730682455. Yours is slabbed so there is that premium but your card is also very beat up around the edges so……my guess would be $65 tops and a low of maybe $40. Peace, Mike Last edited by vthobby; 04-10-2015 at 12:25 PM. |
#3
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So when PSA authenticates autographed cards, the person who submits it has a couple of options:
1) Request confirmation that the autograph is authentic and the card is authentic, in a red flip. That's what you have. This card can only be added to the 1972 Topps PSA set registry, but not the autographed set registry. 2) Have just the autograph authenticated: blue flip 3) Have the autograph/card authenticated and then the autograph graded. There is a PSA/DNA set registry for autograph collectors, but to use it, the autograph must be graded. You may want to consider sending it back to PSA to have them grade the autograph (1-10 scale) and you may gain more when you sell it. http://www.psacard.com/dnasetregistr...ion.aspx?c=143
__________________
-- PWCC: The Fish Stinks From the Head PSA: Regularly Get Cheated BGS: Can't detect trimming on modern SGC: Closed auto authentication business JSA: Approved same T206 Autos before SGC Oh, what a difference a year makes. |
#4
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John,
Isn't there an even more confusing option where they actually grade the card and not the autograph? I think their online submission is awesome BUT for autographed cards, it is still very confusing due to all the different options. Thanks, Mike |
#5
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Yeah, but I think they mark them "Card grade only" or "Auto grade only". That's why a lot of modern collectors prefer BGS where the standard is to grade the card on the normal sticker and then the auto on a second sticker.
__________________
-- PWCC: The Fish Stinks From the Head PSA: Regularly Get Cheated BGS: Can't detect trimming on modern SGC: Closed auto authentication business JSA: Approved same T206 Autos before SGC Oh, what a difference a year makes. |
#6
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I agree that BGS is alot easier to navigate for auto cards however as you know, if your card is less than a Mint 9, it typically does not pay to have it slabbed. Strictly in terms of resale value. In those cases, I'll send to PSA and just have them authenticate the auto and slab it w/o a grade.
Mike |
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