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I am finishing at '53 Topps set...again. I have a little start on '54 Topps and might come back to it. Next up, I am really thinking of '56 or '57 Topps because I think I could build a little higher grade of a set. With that said, I have learned a lot about consistency within a set. No matter which set I go after, the cards will all fall in the same range on qualities such as centering, registry, focus, etc. I expect the set will be a graded one. What do you think about a set that is largely graded in the 7 to 8 range (and high end examples of those grades) but the Mantle, which usually ends up being the most expensive card, coming in in the 6 range?? This Mantle graded a 6 would possess the qualities of the 7s and 8s in terms of centering, etc., but it would be a 6 while most of the rest of the set would be 7s or 8s. Would this look odd? I try not to get too hung up on what the holder says, it is more about eye appeal for me. I buy the card, not the holder. Would buying a Mantle a notch below the other cards look cheap?
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Look cheap to whom?
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My Autograph Blog |
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I don't think one card being a grade lesser than the rest would significantly impact the overall value of the set other than a couple hundred bucks in the case of a Mantle. Me personally don't think it's worth the extra $10/ea. per common to have it slabbed a "7" when likewise raw cards can be bought cheaper, albeit you have to be patient for them
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All my sets are raw, but naturally the tough hits will come up with dinged corners, unless you wanna obviously pay. My pre war collection is small, but mostly slabbed.
I do always hear "buy the card, not the slab." However, sometimes I feel it to be a double standard of sorts. I say if you buy the card, not the slab, then dont buy slabbed cards! But to answer your question more specifically, "no" I dont think its cheap. Good luck! -wes.... Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2 |
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Good point, I do agree. Good luck, stay on track
![]() Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2 |
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Mantle Master Set - as complete as it is going to get Yankees Game Used Hat Style Run (1923-2017): 57/60 (missing 2008/9 holiday hats & 2017 Players Weekend) Last edited by Bestdj777; 06-11-2013 at 05:36 AM. |
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If you do an eBay search for "1956 Topps NM Dean's Cards -psa, -sgc" there are 149 results. In other words, you're searching raw cards only. Of those raw cards, the least of which is priced $49.99...for a raw NM common. Most of his '56 commons average about $60-$70 in NM condition. I agree with the customer service part, but how is $60-$70 for a NM raw 1956 Topps common a "fair price"? ******************************** To answer the original question, collect the way you like. To me, I like to have consistency. If I was builing a '56 set (which I am), I try to stick within half a grade (which I do). My '56 set is all graded between 7 and 7.5. I was having this same conversation with another board member yesterday via PM. I had a sub that just popped and, to my surprise, there were a couple of 8s in there. Since I'm building the set for fun and not to compete on the registry, I was telling the other board member that I was going to take those 8s and sell them or trade down. They're out of place with the rest of the set because they're the only two in there. Likewise, I had a few 6s pop that I thought would have been 7s, so I will sell those as well. If I were doing a broader range set (say from like 5.5 to 7.5), then it's not that big a deal. But when you have all 7s, then yes, I think a 6 would look out of place with your set (assuming that's the only one). That's just me though. As I said at first, collect the way you like. |
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Battersbox - I was tired of buying "NM" cards to have them show up with creases...looking at his feedback alone shows buying cards from him is a gamble. I will however say his prices are super cheap for buying raw cards to fill sets. I just wouldn't recommend his grading.
Deans Cards - My wife for Christmas bought some cards off one of my set lists needs. Great cards and she said his customer service was top notch. She hates ebay and liked he took the time to talk to her on the phone, and he even followed up with a call to make sure the cards arrived and were satisfactory. I was really impressed. I finally got the cost out of her and found the price to be above ebay...enough to where me personally wouldn't go there. BUT...I wouldn't discourage any gifts from the wife and it is about service and trust with her, not knowing anything about cards. I really appreciate that. Just wanted to pass on my .02$ I try and keep my sets in the same raw grade the best I can. I know sets are judged on the stars, so I try and make them the highest grade I can...
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John Otto 1963 Fleer - 1981-90 Fleer/Donruss/Score/Leaf Complete 1953 - 1990 Topps/Bowman Complete 1953-55 Dormand SGC COMPLETE SGC AVG Score - 4.03 1953 Bowman Color - 110/160 69% |
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I will also add that makes me just want to buy graded cards and be spared the disappointment....
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If that is your plan then yes, you are much better off to buy the cards already graded. |
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David, I was being serious. I don't have any affiliation at all with Deans Cards but have been impressed with their selection and prices. I only collect Mantle cards and usually low grade. Their prices seem a lot closer to market than many that I see on ebay (may just be for the lower grade stuff but I assumed they would be fair across the board). Some of their prices are a bit lower than i paid for my cards. Anyway, it is always a good idea to price shop before making a purchase, but in doing so they are worth checking out.
Chris
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Mantle Master Set - as complete as it is going to get Yankees Game Used Hat Style Run (1923-2017): 57/60 (missing 2008/9 holiday hats & 2017 Players Weekend) |
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